RB30X Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) I've cut open one of these and heated up the rubber so it popped out. I'm doing this for the purpose of investigating how I can: 1. Modify them as a non adjustable strut top with added camber and castor. 2. Shorten the strut top itself to gain some extra strut travel at the same (lowered) ride height as before. Picture 001 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 003 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 004 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 005 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 007 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 008 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Edited June 9, 2011 by RB30X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboHLS30 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Looks promising. Keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Unless you allow the parts to rotate relative to each other, as a monoball joint would, you're going to put a bunch of stress on the shock tower which could lead to failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 What do you mean exactly. The factory strut top bearing will still sit inside that cup allowing rotation of the top spring perch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.pk Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) That stock top bearing isn't the only direction of rotation. The strut rod doesn't move perfectly up and down. The rubber was designed to take up the "slack" as the strut move through its suspension travel. The strut has to be given a degree of flexibility in the top mount. Aftermarket uses a monoball and the OEM application uses the rubber isolator. The top mount isn't completely fixed into position in either application. Edited June 9, 2011 by 280zcar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 ^^what he said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 How are the mono balls or pillow balls secured on the strut tops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 And can you buy pillow balls separately if you were building your own strut top and wanted to incorporate one. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Race car suppliers carry them. How about something like this? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ACCURATE-MFD-PRODUCTS-Spherical-Washer-1JYH7?Pid=search Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 What do you mean exactly. The factory strut top bearing will still sit inside that cup allowing rotation of the top spring perch. Remember the thread about the TEP poly upper insulators? You've made something far worse. You'll snap a shock shaft in a few hours of driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) I don't think those spherical washers can handle continuous friction. The material is too soft and will bind and gall. You might be able to harden them, and have them hard chrome plated but by that time, you can chose a better route. What you need to look for is a self-aligning bearing to incorporate into the design. Similar to this. http://www.vxb.com/p...CFcTd4AoduSHuNA But you need to make sure it can handle the axial loads by a safety factor. I have thought about using a clevis and female ball end on top of the strut shaft, but you still need to have steering rotation freedom. Edited June 9, 2011 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 I cant seem to find a place that just sells the pillow balls or something similar. Usually they are inside a big housing or a rod end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nsm0l3m4n Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 (edited) Mcmaster carr has monoball bearings: http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=coizbz I also believe aurora bearings have a line of monoball bearings but have no link for you. What youre essentially building is this: Edited June 10, 2011 by h4nsm0l3m4n Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 (edited) I don't think those spherical washers can handle continuous friction. The material is too soft and will bind and gall. You might be able to harden them, and have them hard chrome plated but by that time, you can chose a better route. What you need to look for is a self-aligning bearing to incorporate into the design. Similar to this. http://www.vxb.com/p...CFcTd4AoduSHuNA But you need to make sure it can handle the axial loads by a safety factor. I have thought about using a clevis and female ball end on top of the strut shaft, but you still need to have steering rotation freedom. Well, I was looking for something cheap but you're probably right. The spherical washers I've seen are not precision ground. That bearing you linked is made for high axial rotation. He really wants a spherical bearing (monoball) made from chrome plated and precision ground hardened steel. In my industry we tend to use 440C. Of course it would be much easier/cheaper to just purchase a set of adjustable coil overs than designing and building your own from scratch. Edited June 10, 2011 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Of course it would be much easier/cheaper to just purchase a set of adjustable coil overs than designing and building your own from scratch. Yeah it would be. I do have coil overs but any height adjustment I can gain above the top hat increases my strut travel. The added camber and castor would have been nice too. Aftermarket looks easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19762802+2 Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Doesn't MSA offer some aftermarket Urethane Strut tops that are adjusted for more camber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.pk Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Doesn't MSA offer some aftermarket Urethane Strut tops that are adjusted for more camber? thread johnc was talking about.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100525-tep-bolt-in-camber-plates/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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