jmak Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Heres an update but still needs a long way till it will be finished! Upcoming projects: Paint, wheels, fix camber 1983 Datsun 280zx N/A GL 139,xxx original miles 5 speed Daily driven Goods: All Fluid recently changed (oil, tranny, diff, coolant, brakes) New front brakes (pad and rotors) New Radiator w/ electrical fan Optima red top battery Rear brakes still good Retrofitted 240sx front knuckles Replaced ball joints, outer tie rods, sway bar bushings, strut rod bushings, rack and pinion boots S13 PBM coilovers Interior has both seats, rear is gutted Uncracked black dash Digital Cluster Momo Hub and Monte Carlo wheel Working power windows T-tops 15x8 -30ish? Eagle wheels Euro H4 lamps 6k HIDs Cons: Has minor rust spots at t-top and surface rust inside engine bay fenders No radio Needs new paint job Heres just a couple of pics I found on the computer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 love the rims Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonethirty Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Looking good so far!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jUv3r Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 looking good congratz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurePontiacKid Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I didn't realize PBM's went that high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 This car is 10x cooler than PPKs just because its not dragging the frame on the ground with stupid stretched tires....and it doesnt have a smashed in 1/4 panel. Cars awesome man, keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurePontiacKid Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 This car is 10x cooler than PPKs just because its not dragging the frame on the ground with stupid stretched tires....and it doesnt have a smashed in 1/4 panel. Cars awesome man, keep up the good work. lol u mad bro? the only reason someone get's PBM's is to go low the fact that 240SX coilovers go about 2" on a 280ZX, I didn't realize that the PBM's could possibly go that high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 lol u mad bro? the only reason someone get's PBM's is to go low the fact that 240SX coilovers go about 2" on a 280ZX, I didn't realize that the PBM's could possibly go that high. I'm just talking crap because it pisses you off whenever people talk crap on your style. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Cons: Has minor rust spots at t-top and surface rust inside engine bay fenders If you have an orbital sander along with elbow grease, try to attack the surface rust first thing. There are several products on the market to deactivate surface rust that will seal over as well. I prefer the Permatex product. My 2 cents Bonk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmak Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 @PurePontiacKid Dont get me wrong but your car is pretty dope. Yeah the PBM coils go lower I just went half way, the first time I put them on the rear wheels werent touching the floor lol. right now is okey, wanted to go lower but the chassis is .5" off the ground. The other problem im running into is the front camber, need to customize a lower control arms since the camber plates are maxed out. and I need to cut into the metal piece where the lower control arm is hitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurePontiacKid Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I find it hard to believe your rails are half an inch off the ground, but ok lol you're probably going to want to do the "bumpsteer mod" service that PBM has to space the control arm a little farther down to help with the clearance to the crossmember, and you can also cut out about a half an inch out of the crossmember lip (that's what I did) something you may want to try if you find it bottoming out when you accelerate is to swap the front springs to the back and also possibly remove your rear sway bar. what size tires are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmak Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 Haha yeah but I think yours is more fckd up then mine. Thanks for the advise, I'll do more research or customize up something. 205/50 came with the wheels already all around. Slapped on 195/60 in the rear temporary since they were getting bald. Still stuck on what size to run for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 half inch or 5 inches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmak Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 half inch or 5 inches? half an inch, the chassis rails underneath the car and the down pipe. I was also planning on extending the lower control arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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