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240z Build - SR20DET - The New Thread - Long First Post


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The "Vortex Generators" are available online. - http://www.vortekz.com/

 

I just needed something to break up the blue on the roof and I like the look... I'll run the ZCC spoiler eventually, but they'll probably never do anything but look nifty.

 

I've heard/seen guys running the MAF after the FMIC, but I'll switch to MAP when I upgrade the turbo, injectors, and ECU next year, so I didn't bother with having it anywhere else but the stock location after the intake filter and before the turbo, as when I do that, I just kill the whole intake pipe setup and run a filter straight to the turbo. I won't need the Recirc BOV either, so I'l run it open.

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Where do you see this? I went back and looked at his pic's and didn't even pay attention. The MAF should not be building boost so it shouldn't be before or after the IC. It should be after the intake cone before the turbo. Maybe if I knew which picture you were looking at?

 

He has it setup the way you mentioned.

 

 

But, BLOW through maf setups are popular and do work.

 

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/81442-blow-through-maf-setup.html

 

On my 200sx se-r turbo, I had the MAF on the coldside. The MAF can't see pressure any way you put it. The only benefits of this are being able to drive home all motor if you split an intercooler pipe, and smaller boost leaks wouldnt break the car up as bad.

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He has it setup the way you mentioned.

 

 

But, BLOW through maf setups are popular and do work.

 

http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/81442-blow-through-maf-setup.html

 

On my 200sx se-r turbo, I had the MAF on the coldside. The MAF can't see pressure any way you put it. The only benefits of this are being able to drive home all motor if you split an intercooler pipe, and smaller boost leaks wouldnt break the car up as bad.

mr jdm, this is interesting, I read the first page of that link and I'll finish it up later. I never knew that was possible but that would make sense.. and I guess it would be true that it only reads air flow and not pressure so essentially that would not matter. Good info though. Are there benefts in HP doing it that way? Having a blow through setup?

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In theory, the MAF can measure air either before or after the compressor, but I would hope you are intercooled well enough to protect the MAF from the hot air resulting from a heat-soaked IC. And most MAFs are not necessarily designed to hold boost pressures, it would suck if developed a leak or blew out.

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  • 4 months later...

Just like many, my builds almost stop completely for winter. Time to get back going!

Here's what she looks like now-

 

IMAG0428.jpg

 

I know need to uncover her and take off the wheels and suspension to install the coil overs and Toyota calipers.

 

This summer I plan on engine upgrades, but it'll be nice to get it dropped a bit as it looks wacky all lifted up. My stock turbo is leaking oil, so it has to go.

I really want to do the whole big deal with a disco potato, ems, and injectors, but I want to do it right and it looks like 3k to get there.

 

 

In the next few weeks I should get some progress and post up updates.

Edited by TheMission
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IMAG0440.jpg

 

I've begun deconstruction...

 

The Front Suspension is totally off and the rear is down to the spindle pin and folded out. I have to cut the tops to weld in the new plates and weld the tubes onto my cut suspension pieces and I'm good to go.

 

I disassembled my exhaust manifold and am throwing on a Disco Potato to fix the old turbo issues.

 

Next week all the parts should be in for the new turbo, 4x4 calipers and rotors, as well as finishing up cutting the tops out and then finding me a decent welding hookup to get them welded in.

 

This summer I'm switching to a Series II ECU, and going MAP, so I'll be able to throw in some injectors, turn up the boost and hopefully get to 300 or so whp and I'll be plenty happy with the ride. The only later things are control arms and lsd swap, but they'll be next year probably.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Today I hopefully have that problem nixed. Had a local guy come out and weld the top camber plates on and got the tubes welded to the suspension components, so tomorrow I'll touch up everything and hopefully have some pics of the project. I won't be back on the road for a bit, but at least getting the c/os installed and will be done with the biggest needed change. I'd like to make some local events this year and this'll touch up one of the things I really disliked about the car, it sitting way too high.

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I've been lurking on this thread for a while, great build.

I'm afraid i'm going to have the same issue on my car once it's back on the ground. I took off a bunch of weight. Did you start with stock springs on the struts or were they lowering springs, then the need for coil overs?

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They were stock, but I don't think that even lowering springs would do the trick. I think only sectioning the struts or running coilovers gets the car low enough for me.

 

I did get the fronts finished today, but the back I still need to do, as it's just taking longer than I expected...

 

 

Here's a pic of the fronts-

 

photobucket-3253-1331956750598.jpg

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Coilovers a finally on... I have a bit of space to go lower in the back, but running out of adjustability. I'm definately much happier with the car's stance.

 

Here's a couple crappy pics in the garage, as it was hailing outside all day.

 

photobucket-1925-1332038939766.jpg

 

photobucket-2154-1332038970327.jpg

 

 

Still love the way the engine sits in the bay.

photobucket-2854-1332038868067.jpg

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Well, she started right up today. I had to bleed the cooling system, and still have to bleed the brakes, but it runs and idles just nifty after sitting all winter. Once I get the brakes bled, I'll check the boost levels of the turbo and see if I can drive around a bit to ensure everything is solid.

 

Hopefully by the next few weeks I'll be able to hit up some meets and take some pics of the dropped setup. I've lowered the back a bit more, and cambered the front in a bit, all I need to do is lower the front, but got behind and ran out of time today. The dual rear caliper setup for the hydraulic rear hand brake has me intrigued and I may try to emulate it, as it just looks fun to fab and a riot to run someday.

 

I'm also back and forth regarding jumping into the Megasquirt PnP v2 for the SR20DET that DIYautotune just released. It's essentially two weeks out now and I'm hesitant to run it, but all the older miata guys really dig the setup and I've been playing with tunerstudio with the project and base tune they've built and the unit looks solid.

 

I'd like to convert to MAP and have my braking system done by the end of the summer...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got brake issues to hammer out now, but ordered the one inch wilwood to be able to run the toyotas up front and maximas in the rear... Once I get that in, I should be good to go to drive around...

 

Took some great pics today of the look now... (Some Artsy Shots Too)

 

2012-04-07_16-24-24_827.jpg

 

2012-04-07_16-28-06_884.jpg

 

2012-04-07_16-27-20_267.jpg

 

2012-04-07_16-30-03_891.jpg

 

2012-04-07_16-27-20_267-1.jpg

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I had problems upgrading my braking system, but I'm really, really close to having the wilwood 1 inch M/C on and having my rear maxima caliper swap finished. I'll get the M/C on this week I hope and be driving around next weekend if the weather is nice.

 

RebeccaZ inspired me to run a dual caliper system in the rear, so despite not really needing it yet, I have been working on prototyping a similiar bracket myself. I have it finished in plastic and am going to pick up some aluminum here soon to take to a machinist I've found to have him cut it and machine it to specs. When I install my rear disc swap, I'll use my prototype just to check fitment, then put the standard swap bracket on till I get my custom bracket machined and then swap that in later.

 

photobucket-1596-1334531732188.jpg

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Beautiful car. Love it! Are those 15x10 with 4.5 backspace all around? What size tires are those. I especially like the rear fitment. Looking to order my diamonds. Want to make sure on fitment with zgs. Thanks. Keep up the good work!

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