kwigbo Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 What started out as a simple water pump install has now become more complicated. In short, a water pump bolt snapped and I have to take off the front cover to get it out. I am in the process of removing the crank pulley and have the bolt off. I went out and bought a bolt puller set but it doesn't have the right size bolt in it to connect to the crank pulley. Does anyone know what size these bolts should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Just replaced my pulley last week and used a standard bearing puller. I had to stick a slug of metal down in the threaded well so the bearing puller had something to push against. Came right off. Shortly thereafter my problems started, but thats another story... Just make sure you make sure you made sure you are sure the pulley is lined up properly with the keyway going back in for sure and I am sure you will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 If you mean the small screws in the damper/pulley hub, they are (surpisingly) 1/4-20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 (edited) I've used a steering wheel puller the last couple of times after I broke a pulley with a standard gear puller once. Find a couple of long bolt the same size as the theaded holes on the side of the pulley hub. Feed them thru the puller slots and screw them into the holes. You can use the big center bolt to push on. Screw it in and back it out few turns so the pulley can slip. Once it breaks free you can tap it off with a mallet and block of wood. Edited November 4, 2011 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I've used a steering wheel puller the last couple of times after I broke a pulley with a standard gear puller once. Find a couple of long bolt the same size as the theaded holes on the side of the pulley hub. Feed them thru the puller slots and screw them into the holes. You can use the big center bolt to push on. Thread it in the hole but leave it threaded out few turns. Once it breaks free you can tap it off with a mallet and block of wood. Indeed, I have several steering wheel pullers(The bar ones with the large bolt down the center) that I have bought over the years just for pulling L-series front pulleys. I fear the day that the domestic guys catch me using a "steering wheel" puller on my Datsun engine... you know that will go over well. I have never actually needed to use any of my pullers to remove a steering wheel. I suppose Id have to work on more domestics for that to happen. Oh and most of the cheaper puller sets will not have long enough bolts to use on the Datsun balancers. Hit the local hardware store for 1/4" 20 bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 (edited) Funny thing happened this morning. I was looking thru the FSM trying to figure out how to properly clock my ZXT dizzy and I ran across a picture showing the front pulley removal. Guess what tool is shown removing the pulley? Yeah, that's right... If I would have originally RTFM (20 years ago) it would have saved me a bunch of headache...go figure Edited November 4, 2011 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwigbo Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Thanks everyone for all the replies! I will go out tonight and look for the 1/4 20 bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Or you can get one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-40965.html It's what I've been using for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Or you can get one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-40965.html It's what I've been using for years. This type of puller could damage the pulley flange or separate the outer ring from the hub. This type is better for this job, and cheaper too. http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwigbo Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 This type of puller could damage the pulley flange or separate the outer ring from the hub. This type is better for this job, and cheaper too. http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html Yeah, that is the set I got. I went out and bought the 1/4 20 bolts but they don't seem to thread in well (barely catch). I haven't put a wrench on them cause I don't want to strip it. Is there another possible size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Steering Wheel Puller here... Jawed pullers will (can) rip your v-grooved section clean off if the center hub has been properly affixed using RC608 cylindrical locking compound (loctite green, per "How to Modify") and not heated the center hub. Really, jawed pullers are incorrect for the application, and as mentioned above if you look in the FSM you will see a sketch of something very reminiscent of a steering wheel puller. Even a three-legged universal 'axle puller' kind will work if you have the bolts and washers. Thing to remember is to pull the HUB (which is the CENTER) and not on any of the PULLEYS. You put Elastomer of the dampner in shear in it's thinnest cross-section to concentrate forces of removing the hub... I have a LOT of nice "Posilock" pullers and after tearing off several pulley sections in junkyards... I got the steering wheel puller for under $9 and haven't looked back since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Yeah, that is the set I got. I went out and bought the 1/4 20 bolts but they don't seem to thread in well (barely catch). I haven't put a wrench on them cause I don't want to strip it. Is there another possible size? I am sure it could be a different size but I check 2 that I have and both are 1/4-20. Perhaps the threads on your are filled with dirt or something like that. Try (carefully) cleaning the threads with a tap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwigbo Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 I am sure it could be a different size but I check 2 that I have and both are 1/4-20. Perhaps the threads on your are filled with dirt or something like that. Try (carefully) cleaning the threads with a tap. Tried turning a tap in by hand it sticks at the exact same place on both holes so that makes me think it can't be dirt. What other possible sizes could it be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwigbo Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Tried turning a tap in by hand it sticks at the exact same place on both holes so that makes me think it can't be dirt. What other possible sizes could it be? 1/4 28 does not work either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwigbo Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 (edited) Ok, I got a little less timid with the tap. There was a lot of gunk in there that came out. The 1/4 20 bolts fit just fine after that. I was able to turn the puller by hand and the pulley came right out. Thanks again everyone! Edited November 5, 2011 by kwigbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Steering Wheel Puller here... Jawed pullers will (can) rip your v-grooved section clean off if the center hub has been properly affixed using RC608 cylindrical locking compound (loctite green, per "How to Modify") and not heated the center hub. Really, jawed pullers are incorrect for the application, and as mentioned above if you look in the FSM you will see a sketch of something very reminiscent of a steering wheel puller. Even a three-legged universal 'axle puller' kind will work if you have the bolts and washers. Thing to remember is to pull the HUB (which is the CENTER) and not on any of the PULLEYS. You put Elastomer of the dampner in shear in it's thinnest cross-section to concentrate forces of removing the hub... I have a LOT of nice "Posilock" pullers and after tearing off several pulley sections in junkyards... I got the steering wheel puller for under $9 and haven't looked back since. As usual, you are correct Tony. I haven't had any issues, but I could see if you had an old damper, it might just pull pully right off. If that happens, I guess it would be time for a new damper anyway. I guess I've never had one that was seized on there that bad. They usually come right off with the jaw type puller. I actually have a bolt style one as well, but couldn't get it to work for some reason. I'll have to give it another try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 That Loctite can stick pretty well. And should someone have gotten the great idea to use "Liquid Metal" or even better believe the hype and "Save" a buggered pulley or keyway bore with JB WELD.(on cleaned metal!!!) good luck getting even a new pulley off by edge-grabbing. I've seen more than on pulley with chunks out of the edges from a failed attempt! Maybe the quality of automotive bottom-feeders is higher in the Atlantic NE... but here in SoCal stuff like this is all to common. And if they are getting repair advice from another Zcar board...the incidence of JB WELD application for a damaged pulley bore is dramatically higher! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 That Loctite can stick pretty well. And should someone have gotten the great idea to use "Liquid Metal" or even better believe the hype and "Save" a buggered pulley or keyway bore with JB WELD.(on cleaned metal!!!) good luck getting even a new pulley off by edge-grabbing. I've seen more than on pulley with chunks out of the edges from a failed attempt! Maybe the quality of automotive bottom-feeders is higher in the Atlantic NE... but here in SoCal stuff like this is all to common. And if they are getting repair advice from another Zcar board...the incidence of JB WELD application for a damaged pulley bore is dramatically higher! Yikes, repairing a pulley with JB Weld? Not sure if it is a Northeast thing or not, but I have pulled at least 20 L series apart, and I've always used my jaw puller without any damage to the damper. Like I said, they usually just slip off with an easy turn of the wrench. I'm not advocating using a jaw puller, but in a pinch, you could use it. Just be aware of the damage it could cause. Get the correct style puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0N Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Sorry to kind offset the thread. I have to remove my front crank pulley to change the front seal. I have to rent some tools because I don't have the sockets big enough for the crank bolt. What size socket do I need? Anything I should watch out for when removing the pulley? I'm hoping this the same steps as the 81 l28t motors. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I've always used a 3 jaw puller, but then again every time I've needed to pull a crank pulley (not all that often to be honest) I hook everything up and get my ratchet on the puller and I never needed more than just a light twist of the wrist to get it cracked off. It's never been tough to where I was worried about breaking something. I honestly can't imagine the nimwit that would put jbweld on a crank pulley. Even loctite doesn't make sense to me (though if it made it into the "how to modify" book then it must have at least marginal credit). R0N ~ If nobody gets you the answer sooner, I'll check my tool box and double check the size tonight. I don't want to quote you the wrong size from memory because I honestly never look at the size because it's the only one in my box... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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