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L28 f54 with n42 head


Perfect240z

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For what its worth, I was running triples an E88( nearly identical to a N42) on a freshly rebuilt flat top F54 with webbers, stage 4 cam from MSA, and headers. I had to back off timing a little, but not that much.

 

 

It seemed fine for me. I only had it for a year before I sold it though.

 

 

Just to through it out, with the money I spent on the rebuild and webers, I could have had a nice turbo setup.

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There's been plenty of people to run higher compression setups just fine. That said though, very few of them were new to building motors. It takes a good tune and a well built motor with the right provisions made. If you hang around some "other" Z car forums you might find people that think getting more than 200whp on a street driven NA L motor is next to impossible or just plain rare because "so and so" only got 175hp to the wheels with their "race prepped" motor....

 

While here we've got plenty of people in the 300hp club and higher. Loads of people reach 200hp and it just takes some careful work and lots of patience.

 

As to the dilemma at hand... You have dish pistons, you want to stay on a lower budget. Keep them and put the N42 on. Then add a turbo down the road if you need more power. That's the path of least resistance.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So Ive decided to put my N42 head on my L24 e31 block, that motor was running just fine in my car before I started the resto build, I took my N42 head to a performance shop nearby in my town to have them check it out, check the pressure and check everything else, the head was definitely shaved. I knew the head was worked on a bit but I didnt know by how much. The owner of the shop measured the cc volume, it was 39cc's, now I think im going to have to use premium gas cause the compression will be pretty high, but I think it will make for a very fun ride. Don't know if ill need to add shims on the head though.

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Alex, Im running a L28 (f54) with flat tops and a stock, un-molested N-42. I have triple webers, mallory unilight dist, and the MSA 270/280 Duration Cam.

My cam is set in slot #1. Currently my timing is at 30 degs. total advance, however the car does like to diesel sometimes when I shut it off.

I just got the motor running two weeks ago, have run one tank of gas through it. This week, she goes to Z Car Garage in San Jose, Ca to be dyno tuned.

Coming off of idle there is a dead spot, and it loads up when at stop lights, however I'm confident when I get her back from Rob and his team, she will be perfect!!!!

 

If it were me, and you want some serious power, lets hook up this week. The guys at Hubbard Machine in Hayward, Ca are working on my next build.

I have a few motors layin around and a bunch of heads... We will make something work. :)

Cheers.

 

-Dan

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If you have the head off, take the time and make it as detonation proof as possible. Make sure the chambers are unshrouded as much as possible and every sharp edge is softened. Even the spark plug hole threads that are at the end of the chambers-file them smooth.

Do you have the book-'How to modify your Datsun engine"? You need to get it and study it.

Does the head have the bigger valves? If it does they might hit the cylinder walls on that P-30 block. You'll need to notch your bores.

Does the head have a performance head in it?

 

I think your making a decent choice using that L24 block if you know it's okay-the less unknowns the better.

 

If you can't answer the questions above you need to research before you install.

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Alex, Im running a L28 (f54) with flat tops and a stock, un-molested N-42. I have triple webers, mallory unilight dist, and the MSA 270/280 Duration Cam.

My cam is set in slot #1. Currently my timing is at 30 degs. total advance, however the car does like to diesel sometimes when I shut it off.

I just got the motor running two weeks ago, have run one tank of gas through it. This week, she goes to Z Car Garage in San Jose, Ca to be dyno tuned.

Coming off of idle there is a dead spot, and it loads up when at stop lights, however I'm confident when I get her back from Rob and his team, she will be perfect!!!!

 

I will be happy to see the results of your dyno session. Besides cam. I had the same exact setup (mine was MSA 274/274)

My setup use to diesel as well. Anything above 30° total advance was making my engine ping.

I have changed my setup now but I'd be curious to see some "baseline" vs. how it was before. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Alex, do you have pics of the n42 head , especially the chambers?

Also what year is the l24 ?

Finally, what's wrong with the original head?

 

I can take a few pics, of the head, gotta get it out of my trunk since I took it to another shop to show a friend today (dhunt)

My L24 is a 31 block, I've decided not to put my n42 on it, I don't want to eye brow the block, it is the matching numbers to my 70z The head that should've been on it was a e31, but p/o got rid of it I guess for some reason. Anyways it has an e88. Car actually ran fine, on the rich side, but ran. I was going to upgrade a bit in my resto project but after all said and done I think I'm going to go back to the e88 unless I get my hands on a e31 head to make it all original again. Still have my l28 to do a stroker build later on and the n42 will work for that.

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Heres the pics

 

post-15914-006361000 1329460854_thumb.jpg

N42 head

 

post-15914-027084200 1329460962_thumb.jpg

post-15914-085292000 1329461021_thumb.jpg

post-15914-005103800 1329461082_thumb.jpg

post-15914-012607100 1329461141_thumb.jpg

As you can see their are no notches for the fuel injection and the ports are larger

 

post-15914-099862800 1329461261_thumb.jpg

Heres the E88, don't know why the first two retainers are different but I can always get some new retainers and springs and a little better cam. Plus cleaning her up will do her good.

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