logan1 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Well after i priced out all the stuff to build my SBC i found this one for sale and think it might be a good fit for me. Just want to know if its a good buy? and what kind of power output i can expect out of it? Will it is a good street motor? Below is all the information the owner has provided me with so far: 355 SBC TRW .100 dome forged pistons 11.1:1 compression GM steel crank 5.7" rods with ARP rod bolts, Crane .630" solid roller cam Crane Gold rockers Edelbrock aluminum Victor Jr. heads 2.08/1.60 valves 64cc chambers 215cc runners, ARP head studs Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake Holley 750 double pumper SFI balancer 4 bolt main block bored .030 over. Block was line honed as well. The owner claim that it will make 485-500hp on 91 oct pump gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surpip Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Those numbers sound pritty close maybie slightly high, depends on the specs of the cam but there are better buys for $2600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 (edited) Can you hear it run? Dyno sheets and receipts/pictures provided? Do you wish to carry off with someone else's project engine/combination at this price? Does this fit your overall goals or current ones? Could you retain some value in event of resale? That's a lot of power on street lol Questions to ask oneself in purchase Edited January 22, 2012 by Blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Thats a lot of money for an old school SBC IMO. However, I'm not really down for paying a lot for 50 year old technology. I like my fuel injection. To each his own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Logan1: A 355 cu in SBC, even though highly modified, will likely not make 485-500 HP. This is more the territory of a 383 stroker SBC with the same parts. The domed pistons inhibit the flame front from the spark plug to the opposite side of the cylinder. Flat Top piston are the best as they do not inhibit the flame front. To achieve high compression ratio, zero deck the block, use thin head gaskets and mill the cylinder heads for a smaller head chamber. The design of the SBC may be 50 years old but is still the best technology of its time. Displacement for displacement and similar parts, the Gen 1 and Gen II engine will equal the Gen III and Gen IV LSx engines. Therefore there is no disadvantage of the 50 year technology. The '96-'99 SBC Gen I engines are the best of the breed with one-piece rear main seal and roller lifters with taller lifter bosses and likely CNC machined just as the Gen III and Gen IV engines are. For $2600.00, it would be best to get a '96-'99 Vortec SBC, bore and stroke to 383, use 6 inch rods, SRP lightweight pistons and good crankshaft. Line hone and deck the block to 0 or .005 piston in the hole. AFR make the best cylinder heads for the buck. Use AFR-195 heads. Then you know just what is within the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 For $2600 that would be a good price for a low milage ls1/2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 When you buy a used engine, there is a gamble that it is either good or bad and the purchaser does not know the state of the engine. Starting with a known good block and new parts makes certain that all aspects of the engine are KNOWN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBlah Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 For $2600, you could build a 600-800hp big block, or buy an LS1. If you plan on spending that much on a SBC, I would start smaller and buy a 4 bolt main block, rebuild it yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 (edited) That is worth 2600 dollars. Lots of expensive parts there. And power output could be as advertised if the duration is long enough. However, not a good street engine. Not at all. I would look for a used 96 to 2000 350 vortec engine (complete). These engines came with factory roller cams and vortec heads. Should be able to find one in good shape for $700. Add a cam, minor engine refresh, a little head work, and make a streetable 400hp. Check out this 350 build http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/completebuilds_testing/sucp_0910_chevy_350_engine_build/viewall.html Or go LS. Can get a 5.3 liter cheap. But will be a little harder to install and get running (ignition, intake/carb, or efi) Edited January 29, 2012 by Pyro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 $2600 is an excellent price for that combo IF you have reliable evidence that it's complete, present-as-advertised, running, and properly assembled. Otherwise if could be a $2600 paperweight. It is emphatically not the case that a "600-800 hp big block" can be built for $2600! At that power level, you'll have $2600 in the cylinder heads alone. Stock rods would be questionable, and a decent aftermarket set of rods ($600) plus forged pistons ($500), balancing the rotating assembling ($250), and you've already blown more than half of your $2600 budget. Roller cam ($250+), good roller lifters ($400), pushrods ($100) and rockers ($300), high-quality timing chain ($100)... you get the picture. A properly assembled big block with the requisite machining and the components needed to reliably produce that level of power will run around $8000 using mail-order parts (Summit, Jegs) bought individually, if assembled at home, and if you already have a usable block. Crate engines will be cheaper, but components will be inferior and you have no control over tolerances or other details of assembly. A good crate big block from a reputable builder at the 600 hp level would run around $10000, with proper aluminum heads (AFR, Brodix) and mechanical roller camshaft. Adding another 200 hp means some serious CNC machining on the heads, probably an aftermarket forged crank and top-shelf valvetrain components... try $12000+. If I could interview the builder and have reliable information about that $2600 engine, I'd be all over it! Actually, even if I had no use for such an engine, at that price level, it would be a worthwhile acquisition just in case. But a few things bother me. For example, 0.630" lift in a 355 is an awful lot. What was done to the valvetrain to accommodate that much lift? How much valvespring pressure, and how will that affect camshaft life? Do we have dyno data... in other words, is that 485-500 hp an evanescent blip on the dyno at 6700 rpm? The big risk with "screaming deals" is truth-in-advertising. For peace of mind, and not for personal arrogance or cost-cutting, it is more attractive to build one's own engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 2600 will buy you a 5.3, a t56, and a swap kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 This is even a better buy. http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/2830486489.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 This specs out as a race engine. I am not a fan of solid roller lifters for the street. 11:1 is pushing the limits of the 93 octane gas we now buy, must less 91. You may have to enhance the vacuum of this cam if you have power brakes. This thing probably makes its power in the 2500 to 7000 range. Power may be a little exagerated. Lots of expensive parts here. Might be worth taking a chance if you want a race motor. I bought a new GM 330HP long block for that price which was destroyed by a combo of nitrous and a missed shift on the weak single row timing chain they put in the crate motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan1 Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 (edited) Well I changed mu mid and bough a much more conservative motor today. My guess is that the motor will make between 285 to 300hp at the crank. The specs are as follows: fresh rebuilt 350 - Its a 4 bolt 010 70's block Block was decked and smoothin for faster oil flow Block has been powered hoaned from 030 to 040 Stock 883 heads New flattop 4rv pistons - 9.5:1 compression Rods and cranked turned new comp cam 268H and lifter Kit : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-210-2 edelbrock airgap intake new cam, rod and main bearing New feeeze plugs Motor came with a HEI distributer, water pump, and starter. PRICE : $700 Edited February 6, 2012 by logan1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Heads are most likely 882's. Should run ok. I would say 300hp or maybe a little more if the exhaust system is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan1 Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Heads are most likely 882's. Should run ok. I would say 300hp or maybe a little more if the exhaust system is good. I have an excellent set of Vortec heads out of a 98 suburban. How much HP would i add by swapping the 882's out for the Vortecs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 The vortec heads will add compression and flow over the 882's. and the vortec head woud require less ignition timing. I would say a 30hp or 40hp increase with your cam (268H). Should make a 350hp 350 with vortecs. The vortec heads will need to be modified to run a cam that big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan1 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 The vortec heads will add compression and flow over the 882's. and the vortec head woud require less ignition timing. I would say a 30hp or 40hp increase with your cam (268H). Should make a 350hp 350 with vortecs. The vortec heads will need to be modified to run a cam that big. awesome 350hp would be more than plenty for a good street car. From what i have read online the Vortec heads can run a cam with up to .480 lift; so the 268H cam with its .454 lift should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) awesome 350hp would be more than plenty for a good street car. From what i have read online the Vortec heads can run a cam with up to .480 lift; so the 268H cam with its .454 lift should be fine. I would double check that. If you wipe out a cam lobe then the lobe/lifter metal will eat up the engine bearings. I measured a set of vortec heads a few years ago and the retainers hit the valve stem seal at 0.420". http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html Check out combo 73. Close to your build with a little bigger cam. Can down load the site summary as an excel spread sheet. Edited February 10, 2012 by Pyro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Changing to Vortec heads will require an intake manifold made for the Vortec heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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