Gollum Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 1340426121[/url]' post='1006527']You can control riming with the MS, and using a non-turbo dizzy, by using a GM 7 or 8 pin ignition control module, triggered from the dizzy. I would say I've done, and for all intents and purposes it would be the same, the only difference is that I was not using an MS, but a Delco ECM. Communications between the ICM and the ECMs are the same. Yea I guess that is an option isn't it? It's just that with ms ll you don't need a GM control module at all if you have the turbo CAS dizzy. Your idea would certainly be easier if not cheaper as well since those modules are everywhere. As for the oil return, the OP should just deal with the reality of pulling the pan. Should only take about an hour IMO and the engine doesn't need to be pulled to do so, just pull the mounts and get a good 2" of clearance for a wrench to get in there, voila. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 (edited) Yea I guess that is an option isn't it? It's just that with ms ll you don't need a GM control module at all if you have the turbo CAS dizzy. Your idea would certainly be easier if not cheaper as well since those modules are everywhere. As for the oil return, the OP should just deal with the reality of pulling the pan. Should only take about an hour IMO and the engine doesn't need to be pulled to do so, just pull the mounts and get a good 2" of clearance for a wrench to get in there, voila. Yeah, I've only made the suggestion (a few times now), because the turbo dizzys seem to be harder to find anymore, and I know this is one ignition control option that works, with both sides of the parts (non turbo dizzy and the ECM). Of course there are a multitude of other options, like the Ford EDIS, GM DIS from a FWD GM 2.8/3.1/3.4, EDIS trigger wheel and COP, custom trigger wheel and COP, etc. Personally, I'd just use DIS. This is a quick and easy way to interface the existing and more common L28 dizzy with an ECM, especially aftermarket, like an MS, or a Delco, as I run. The dizzy does nee dto have the mechanical advance locked out, and the vacuum advance can just be left disconnected. I had planned to make a piece to lock out the vacuum advance with mine, but ended up going to DIS soon after getting the turbo/EFI conversion running. If anyone needs a locked out dizzy (and maybe a GM ICM), I have mine still around, that I would like to sell. When I pulled my pan to add the oil drain back, I believe I just pulled the 4 bolts holding the engine brackets to the rubber mounts and used my engine hoist to lift it a couple inches. If there is no engine hoist available, a jack and a piece of wood under the harmonic balancer/pulley would also lift the engine, though it would be less stable, than lifting from the top. Edited June 23, 2012 by Six_Shooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 1340479684[/url]' post='1006597']Yeah, I've only made the suggestion (a few times now), because the turbo dizzys seem to be harder to find anymore, and I know this is one ignition control option that works, with both sides of the parts (non turbo dizzy and the ECM). Of course there are a multitude of other options, like the Ford EDIS, GM DIS from a FWD GM 2.8/3.1/3.4, EDIS trigger wheel and COP, custom trigger wheel and COP, etc. Personally, I'd just use DIS. This is a quick and easy way to interface the existing and more common L28 dizzy with an ECM, especially aftermarket, like an MS, or a Delco, as I run. The dizzy does nee dto have the mechanical advance locked out, and the vacuum advance can just be left disconnected. I had planned to make a piece to lock out the vacuum advance with mine, but ended up going to DIS soon after getting the turbo/EFI conversion running. If anyone needs a locked out dizzy (and maybe a GM ICM), I have mine still around, that I would like to sell. When I pulled my pan to add the oil drain back, I believe I just pulled the 4 bolts holding the engine brackets to the rubber mounts and used my engine hoist to lift it a couple inches. If there is no engine hoist available, a jack and a piece of wood under the harmonic balancer/pulley would also lift the engine, though it would be less stable, than lifting from the top. All good info As to getting that few inches of lift there's a plethora of ways to do it. Picker like you mention, lifting by the damper is good too. One that I like is to lift with a jack at the bell housing. Easy to make stable with wood blocks and I'm personally less worried about hurting the bell housing and rear mating surfaces than I am the front of the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Yeah I have removed the pan with the motor in the car but I am not to fond of it. I need to clean up the engine compartment and swap the head so I will probably just pull the motor and do it all out of the car. So right now I have an 80's zx distributor for N/A would it be better to have the early model without the module on the side or do I need the module to connect to the GM module for Megasquirt. What is the best/easiest way to lock out the mechanical advance on the distributor? I just found a p90 head, an intercooler, and possibly 440cc supra injectors all from a guy a couple hours away. BTW my car currently is running Triple Webers 40's and once I get the turbo up and running I will be selling these so if your interested just let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 To connect a GM module to the dizzy, follow the existing write ups for that, but instead of using a 4 pin ICM, use a 7 or 8 pin ICM, following the MegaManual instructions for using the 7 or 8 pin ICM. I think the reluctors are the same in the dizzies that have the module attached to the side and the ones that use a remote mount module, so it shouldn't matter, other than aesthetics. IIRC, I removed the shaft from mine and welded the mechanical advance, so that it didn't. I know on other some dizzies, a lock out bushing can be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 So I was thinking i got a good deal on some 440cc Supra turbo injectors off of ebay. Tested them and they all read in the 3.3 ohm range. Went to connect them directly to a battery to see if they open up and nothing? Am i doing this wrong? The stock high impedance z injectors i can hear clicking and can blow through them but noting with the supra injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 You probably just turned them into so much scrap by burning out the coils. a 9V transistor battery is all you need to "make them click"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 You probably just turned them into so much scrap by burning out the coils. a 9V transistor battery is all you need to "make them click"... Painful but true: electronic ignition and fuel injection, etc, is much more delicate and needs careful handling compared to '60's era equipment, like using jumper cables direct from the battery to a starter motor to test its function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 I just got all of them working they where all gummed up. Being an electrical engineer, 12 volts won't hurt them since that is what they are being supplied on a running vehicle. Except on the car the current is limited using resistors or a PWM setup. It would hurt them if you left it on the battery long enough but not when checking function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) Anyways I almost have all the parts together for the build. The motors compression is going to be around 8.7:1 I have heard some say I won't be able to run much timing with that compression. I plan on controlling the spark with the megasquirt 2. I have heard to use a gm hei 7 pin module to control the spark but I have also heard that ms 2 can control it by itself. How much timing should I be able to run at 10 psi Should i stick with the Flat tops or try and find some dished pistons? will i be able to achieve the 250 to 300 with flat tops? Edited July 11, 2012 by Randall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted July 17, 2012 Author Share Posted July 17, 2012 What would be a good place to buy an Oil return kit? Ebay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conedodger Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Awesome I can't wait to get this started... I just spent all spring break doing the 240sx 5 speed mod and it turned out really well. I love the Megan short shifter!!! The only thing that bothers me is my lifters seem to be louder than they should. After doing a full motor rebuild I have done the valve lash multiple times without positive results The valve noise also seems to come and go. Oil pressure after rebuild was 10 at 1000 rpm and went all the way to 60 psi But after the lifter noise started I checked the pressure at idle and it's hanging around 20 psi. Blockage? I'm using a 10w-40(i think quaker)here in Texas with no zddp additive. I didn't have the noise until after the first 1000 miles or so after the rebuild and used a zddp additive on the break-in oil but not after. I also have close to 3000 thousand on the rebuild. Also i overheated the motor after it was rebuilt due to radiator problems but i don't think it got too hot. Compression after 3000 miles turned out to be 175 to 180 on all 6 cylinders. Anyone got any ideas? Run Brad Penn 20W50 Racing Oil. Adjust your valves again. Valve adjustment should be done shortly after break-in before settling in to a normal maintenance pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 Well was planning on just converting to turbo but while I had the motor out I painted the engine bay semi-gloss black and ordered a urethane bushing kit and tore out the entire front end and cleaned and painted everything. No more dirty hands working on the front of the car I also got my P-90 head back from the machine shop. They said that the dowel for the camshaft was cracked so they removed it but they did not put another one in. Anyone know where i could get a new one? Last resort would be pulling one off of the 2 cams i have lying around. Also think i will order this for oil supply - http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=104 and this for oil return - http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=95 The sending line is just a hair short so i am going to call them and see if they can make it an inch or so longer. Let me know what you think on both the cam dowel pin and the turbo oil lines from B&R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share Posted August 14, 2012 Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Just curious i have a stage 2 excedy clutch on a 225mm flywheel and i dont believe it is going to be able to hold up to the 300-350 horsepower that i will putting down. What would you guys recommend for a good street clutch setup thats not too expensive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share Posted October 26, 2012 I just ordered some turbo ITM pistons .040 over for my turbo build. Did some research and these come with chrome top rings and cast for the bottom. I have heard that chrome rings are not the rings of choice from one of my friends who used to build motors although his motors were always SBC and Fords N/A. The machine shop that will be boring the block for me says that i should stick with the chrome rings since i will be going turbo ( he does not recommend them otherwise). Just wondering if anyone has any input on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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