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Turbo 240z/260z


i2ickei242

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I understand that the 280z comes factory turbo charged so swapping in the l28et makes most sense.

 

My question is are the internals factory forged on the 280s?

 

If not, then what other then displacement and compression ratio is the reason to not put a log manifold, turbo, intake manifold and EFI system on a 240z or 260z?

Better yet do the manifolds from a 280 fit on a 240z/260z?

 

I am new to the Datsun scene but I am very familiar with the honda/vw turbo scene, I would like to setup a small turbo on my 260z and I'm not seeing why this shouldn't be able to be done for cheap if I am only looking for 250-275whp.

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As stated, this is all covered. In fact, wikipedia would answer half of it.

I understand that the 280z comes factory turbo charged (never happened, on the 81-83 280ZX came turbo charged) so swapping in the l28et makes most sense.

 

My question is are the internals factory forged on the 280s? (rods yes, pistons no)

 

If not, then what other then displacement and compression ratio is the reason to not put a log manifold, turbo, intake manifold and EFI system on a 240z or 260z?

Better yet do the manifolds from a 280 fit on a 240z/260z? (because a complete L28ET costs less than aftermarket EFI, or getting a turbo manifold + turbo + EFI intake mani, etc etc. A complete donor can be had for less than $1000, motors routinely sell for $500 or less complete.)

 

I am new to the Datsun scene but I am very familiar with the honda/vw turbo scene, I would like to setup a small turbo on my 260z and I'm not seeing why this shouldn't be able to be done for cheap if I am only looking for 250-275whp. (totally reachable on stock internals of a 240z, 260z, or 280z as long as the EFI tune is in good working order/tune)

 

Just to reiterate, the L28ET is cheap and available. Turbocharging a 240Z L24 will require MORE work, and probably MORE money than just getting a L28ET and converting the fuel and wiring to EFI.

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Thank you for the reply Gollum! I am aware that the 280z wasn't turbo, my finger just missed the "x". I have never heard of a turbo car having forged rods and not pistons being that the piston is more likely to fail from heat then the rod from boost. Is the crank forged? I am going to call all the local junkyards tomorrow in search of a 81-83 280xz turbo!

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Name domestic turbo cars with forged pistons... I can't think of any offhand.

 

Please search, this isn't a domestic car, forged internals are the norm, as they were inTyp1 VW's...

 

Do some readings on compressive tolerances of cast pistons. It's not heat that kills them.

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What tony said.

 

Forged rods are extremely common compared to forged pistons. Bearing tolerances on rods are much easier to deal with than piston wall clearances of pistons. Forged pistons grow a LOT. Any hardcore racer can testify to the "normal" sound of piston slap on cold startup with forged slugs. And I'm not convinced that the "forged" slugs in the OEM domestic market are nearly as dense of an ali compared to after market ones.

 

Short answer: stock crank and rods will handle 700+ HP when the motor is prepped appropriately.

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Thanks for the info guys...learn something new everyday. I wouldn't call my setup in my 04 Volkswagen Jetta GLI "hardcore" by any means but I have been around a few insanely boosted VWs/Hondas and have never heard of piston slap.

 

MY BUILD if you guys are interested.

 

*Cliff Notes: 20v 1.8L turbo bored and stroked to a 2008cc, big port head fully ported and polished, stage 5 cams, (it actually lopes like a v8) 1000cc injectors, garret 3076r @30psi, log manifold, 90mm hemi throttle body, pump gas. Made 445whp and 370ftlbs on a 92* day. I still need to hook up my water/methanol kit (hoping for another 60-70whp). :2thumbs:

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...Short answer: stock crank and rods will handle 700+ HP when the motor is prepped appropriately.

 

Any examples of prepped stock rods holding 700hp?

I was always under the impression that the number was lower than that from what I've read, but would love to learn some more about it!

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Bryan Blake claimed hellacious numbers on stock rods whereas guys that endurance raced them said the limit was 100hp/hole.

 

Given Bryan didn't particularly run his engine in any 24 hour enduros to prove his statement, and the other guys did....I'd believe the other guys, and only believe 700 on prepped stock rods for 'intermittent use if that'! <_<

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Bryan Blake claimed hellacious numbers on stock rods whereas guys that endurance raced them said the limit was 100hp/hole.

 

Given Bryan didn't particularly run his engine in any 24 hour enduros to prove his statement, and the other guys did....I'd believe the other guys, and only believe 700 on prepped stock rods for 'intermittent use if that'! <_<

 

Which I'd agree with... But how many people ACTUALLY make a 700hp motor? And how many will ACTUALLY use stock rods? But even at 100hp a hole that's still 600hp!!! WAY more than 95% of the L motors I see on this site, LET ALONE the cars on the road. Most people are concerned about getting to 300hp...

 

Bryan also tends to seem to live on the ragged edge sometimes. He's the one who openly performs his own piston weight reduction and tries to share his findings and then people like to bash him for it, while other machinists in our very own community back him up. I'm not saying Bryan is rignt/wrong about the 700hp claim, but I'd just like to point out that he's not just "some guy" out there.

 

I'm pretty sure his L31DETT is using an OEM rod and he's been daily driving it for a long time now (three years or more?). I'm not sure what boost levels he's running on a daily basis though.

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The main diferences betweet L28ET vs other L series, are, L28et head, oil pump, C/R (dished pistons and 53.6 cc chamber)

 

heads4.jpg

table2.jpg

 

Besides the electronic fuel injection system, a little bigger injectors, fuel pump, opto distributor, Nissan ECCS!

Edited by s30red240z
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