mistah mofro Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Well it seems something its stopping me from building enough pressure to move the clutch fork, i tried bleeding it out again and there was air bubbles which gave it some more pressure on the pedal but physically looking at the clutch fork minimal movement. its a brand new slave and clutch master but the pedal is kinda soft and never gets stiff problem is the entire time i drove the Z i always had a soft pedal so i cant tell the significant difference. When i first started the car and put it in reverse it barely engaged and slowly stalled out, couldnt put it back into gear. So before i drop the transmission, i wanted to get some insight before doing so. Maybe pressure plate doesnt match throw out? Anyways to identify pressure plate? Edit: I also had some press the pedal while i stare at the resevoir. The fluid goes down an comes back up slowly with no air bubbles at all, also i have purchased another slave cylinder just to see if it my current one may be defected. Tonight im going benchbleed the clutch master/slave cylinder, removing the copper washer from the ss line, and then bleeding it the entire system again before dropping the transmission. (Heres pics of the slave cylinder travel) This is clutch pedal not pressed: pressed: thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 My friend went through 3 slaves before he got one that worked. Very possible it could be defective. Have you seen any leaking anywhere in the system? lines or firewall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 Nah theres no leakage anywhere actually thats why its becoming increasingly more frustrating be easier to indentify the problem lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 (edited) are you 100% sure that your master cylinder is good? I've had trouble with clutch master cylinder, especially aftermarket ones. The problem I found with them was that the pedal linkage (the push rod) was about 1/4'' shorter on the aftermarket cylinders and did not have the length required to fully engage the slave cylinder. if you have the stock cylinder and an aftermarket one handy just put them next to each other on a bench, you may be surprised with the difference. This was the case for me. gotta love those hydraulic clutches...... Hope you solve the problem. Edit: happened to find a picture of my two different masters, its rough but if you look closely since the mounting points are lined up, notice the rod length difference. (both adjustments are maxed out for length) This MAY not be the case for you, but I figured I would throw this out there. Edited May 10, 2012 by OldAndyAndTheSea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 (edited) S*** i didnt even know thag, but unfortuanetly i got rid of my old master awhile back, fun stuff thanks for the info. Anyone know what the measurement for max length of the rod should be? Edited May 10, 2012 by mistah mofro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Did you take the rubber boot off to see if it's leaking? The boot can fill up with fluid without external leaks. I've opened a new slave cylinder and found honing grit inside. Best to open it up and flush it out before installing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 I have the same problem with the linkage being too short on my master. This would give you trouble shifting but it should not make the motion of the pedal feel weak, and the slave should still move (it just wouldn't be moving far enough). The before and after look almost identical, no pressure plate would be sensitive enough for that. If there was a fluid leak the pedal pressure would continue to weaken as you held it down (it would probably be a good enough leak to see though). If one of the cylinders is shot, you should get a little more initial action if you push the pedal down faster, and again it would weaken as you held it down. Otherwise there is probably a good amount of air in the system, in which case If you pump the pedal a bunch of times quickly you should get a little more action on the slave as well. It's not easy getting all the air out of the master itself, the best way is to bench bleed before installing it. I pumped mine rapidly about a hundred times to be sure. The slave is simpler and less likely to be a problem. If you're certain there is no air in the system, the slave isn't leaking, and the master can't be bled any further, then perhaps a larger bore is in order. A longer rod would help a little but probably not enough for how little movement you're getting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 So i swapped slave cylinders and had the same result... but i i adjusted the rod as far as it can go, go rid of the copper washer from the ss line, benched the slave master and tried again. Succuess finally alot more movement and way stiffer pedal now so i cant pinpoint on one thing since i did numerous stuff at once. I took a look at the previous and seemed to be ok. I didnt get to test it out cuz i ca start at this time since i have open headers.Now that i actually was able to turn the car since its in the middle of the day another problem has come up. It feels as if the clutch isnt fully engaging, i adjusted the rod some more and got little more engagment but it feels as if it "never lets go". I had a problem like this once before and i adjusted the clutch master rod and it fixed it but now it seems it cant be helped. Should i try bleeding it some more too see if i can get more pressure? or can it be something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Put a pinpoint on benched the master. Perhaps get a buddy who's keen on doing it, you should only have to do it once for it to be perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driftinrican Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Well it seems something its stopping me from building enough pressure to move the clutch fork, i tried bleeding it out again and there was air bubbles which gave it some more pressure on the pedal but physically looking at the clutch fork minimal movement. its a brand new slave and clutch master but the pedal is kinda soft and never gets stiff problem is the entire time i drove the Z i always had a soft pedal so i cant tell the significant difference. When i first started the car and put it in reverse it barely engaged and slowly stalled out, couldnt put it back into gear. So before i drop the transmission, i wanted to get some insight before doing so. Maybe pressure plate doesnt match throw out? Anyways to identify pressure plate? Edit: I also had some press the pedal while i stare at the resevoir. The fluid goes down an comes back up slowly with no air bubbles at all, also i have purchased another slave cylinder just to see if it my current one may be defected. Tonight im going benchbleed the clutch master/slave cylinder, removing the copper washer from the ss line, and then bleeding it the entire system again before dropping the transmission. (Heres pics of the slave cylinder travel) This is clutch pedal not pressed: pressed: thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Had similar problem with v8 swap. Make sure the stops on the pedal are loosened all the way up to start with. May be keeping you from getting full stroke. Then readjust once all working well. This was problem on my car. Wouldn't fully release and wouldn't fully engage. Got more travel in pedal and problem was solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Had similar problem with v8 swap. Make sure the stops on the pedal are loosened all the way up to start with. May be keeping you from getting full stroke. Then readjust once all working well. This was problem on my car. Wouldn't fully release and wouldn't fully engage. Got more travel in pedal and problem was solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Hmmm ok rebekah ill give it a go tonight then hopefully it will do the trick and maybe i can find a pinpoint that will fit the clutch master and bleed clutch master. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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