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l28et wiring to 260z


Blobber

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He means: "Sort of"...

 

The early 260 has an electric fuel pump, but you can't use it with the turbo motor. You need a fuel pump made for fuel injection or the 280ZX Turbo fuel pump. And, you're going to be wiring it differently than the stock wiring... The 260 fuel pump gets it's power thru a couple of "safety" relays. You won't be using those. The fuel pump "safety" IS the ECU, so you need to re-wire your fuel pump JUST like in the diagram. The rest of it is fairly straight forward, but your 260 won't have all the fusable links you need, get another set or use the fusable link box from a 280ZX.

 

No changes IF you use the 260 alternator. If you use the 280ZX Turbo alternator, you'll be re-doing you alternator wiring and eliminating your external voltage regulator. I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but as you're doing all this, take the time to check and clean EVERY electrical connection - then clean and "De-Ox-It" again... Make sure your vacuum connections are good, you can"t have leaks - no open ports. DON'T screw with the AFM!

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Yes

 

Apologies, I thought you where only asking about the wiring harness connections, as that was the question you asked. I assumed you had read and understood the swap thread in which it was posted.

Edited by ctc
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Thank you for your answers and for cgsheen for clarifying those few details. I have read the faq entirely, but I haven't noticed any mention about the altenator wiring. Is there possibility to eliminate 260z voltage regulator and use it in the swap?

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If you're installing the stock alternator onto your turbo engine, don't touch a thing. Most of us use the alternator that comes with the L28ET - it puts out more amps - BUT it has an internal voltage regulator AND needs to be re-wired a little when used in an early Z frame.

 

When I did my swap, I used the L28ET alternator, removed my external voltage reg., removed the shunt and ammeter, installed a '77 voltage gauge in place of the ammeter, and re-wired that whole "section" of my stock harness.

Edited by cgsheen
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Ctc & Cgsheen, thanks for your answer. Reason I started asking about the alternator, is that I couldn't figure out why should i change stock alternator, because to my acknowledge it doesn't have any effect to ecu's behaviour.

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Ctc & Cgsheen, thanks for your answer. Reason I started asking about the alternator, is that I couldn't figure out why should i change stock alternator, because to my acknowledge it doesn't have any effect to ecu's behaviour.

 

Well... Your early 260Z didn't come with all that harness wire, sensors, and computer electronics you just installed. And, you've probably added some other electrical / electronic devices as well. Don't tell me you kept the stock AM radio with a single speaker in the back. Still using sealed beam headlights?

 

As I said, many of us use the 280ZXT alternator because it can pump out nearly twice the amperage as the original 260Z alternator. But, that's a change you can make - or not - anytime you want...

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Well... Your early 260Z didn't come with all that harness wire, sensors, and computer electronics you just installed. And, you've probably added some other electrical / electronic devices as well. Don't tell me you kept the stock AM radio with a single speaker in the back. Still using sealed beam headlights?

 

As I said, many of us use the 280ZXT alternator because it can pump out nearly twice the amperage as the original 260Z alternator. But, that's a change you can make - or not - anytime you want...

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Well that it will make a difference, but I meant that it doesn't directly prevent ecu from working. If I'm able get the coversion running with this alternator it helps me alot coz I have been struggling with my conversion. But you are right that the alternator swap would be better with this swap.

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It won't prevent it from working, but the Turbo ECU's are TERRIBLY sensitivity to low voltage and will FRY the injector drivers from over amperage if your charging system isn't up to snuff.

 

You don't "HAVE" to remove your external regulator. If you simply connect the stock ZXT Alternator you will have a helluva time flashing field, but if you drive the car daily or even weekly there is enough residual magnetism in the rotor core to excite the field by revving the engine to around 3K rpms. Once you do it first thing in the morning, it's good for the rest of the day, quick blip of the throttle and the alternator is producing.

 

I drove my 260 for almost 18 months like this until I had the time and found a spare regulator that was bad to construct the diode plug. I had a good regulator in there, and didn't want to cut the plug off of it to make the jumper and diode---it will tend to 'not shut off' because of the lack of a diode, but I'm tolerant...I would dump the clutch to kill the engine and then flip my battery disconnect switch while it was parked.

 

So yeah, do the modification. I wouldn't use the 260 alternator if I had a good internally regulated one from the L28ET already hung on the block! It's way better.

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I've done the alternator swaps with 3 years no issue by simply cutting the stock alternator T plug off, wiring a diode to the proper ign terminal and jumping the sense wire right to the battery stud. I left the stock regulator and everything plugged in on the main harness on both my cars. My ammeter works and has worked the past 3 years no issue. Both are 1973, same charging system on the 260. Much easier simply wiring a new plug configuration. My first z 3 years and my second z going on a year. Your battery drain is your alternator wiring configuration most likely Tony D, you have your constant hot to the ignition terminal and its sucking the battery down. I had this issue also at first.

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