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Datsun Nismo comp cam. Stamped with Letter "C"


Perfect240z

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Hey guys, wanted to get your opinion. I've been looking for the Datsun Nismo comp cam stamped with the letter "C". My question for you guys is how aggressive is this cam? How much do you think I should pay for it, and I was told by a Datsun Z shop/parts seller/ enthusiast that its not that great of a cam. The set I want to have for when my car is done is triple mikuni carbs, e31 head/e31 block, and use this cam. Now the goal is just to have mild spirited driving on the back roads and around town, maybe try out an autoX if the cash comes up. But i'll be building a performance motor afterwards. So let me know your thoughts, here are some pics in the cams condition. The guy wants $125 plus shipping w/out rockers, he was told by an engine builder it was worth $150, so the cam would be 150 w/ rockers. The cam definitely has surface rust and will need to get cleaned up. Would I want to use the same rockers or after it gets cleaned should I get rockers from wolf creek racing? I have the specs in the last pic.

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Edited by Alex731
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Alex,

I do not know what the specs of a "C" cam is, others on this site certainly will. There are so many aftermarket grinds available, I would not limit myself to just a Nismo cam. I just put together a L28, flat top pistons set .010 out of deck (negative deck height) with a P79 head, and a calculated compression ratio of 9.65:1 (head milled .045), and a isky stage 1 cam (slightly higher lift .475, shorter duration, 270 advertised, 222 at .050) and made 180 hp to the rear wheels. I consulted extensively with Peter at PMC race engines, he was glad to help me with his vast experience with these engines. This engine has great power from 3,500-6.500, (see my dyno sheets on L28 Chumpcar dyno runs on this forum). This engine also just finished a 24 hour Chumpcar enduro in Spokane, WA over the weekend, so it has good durability. Isky is, in my opinion an excellent choice, and they will work with you to meet your goals. They charge around $140 to grind your cam. I had a whole box of cam followers surfaced at Delta cams in tacoma, WA for $3 apiece, some time ago, but isky can probably re-surface them as well. Todd at Wolfcreek is also an excellent choice (he rebuild a set of Solex 44 PHH for my Datsun 2000 roadster a few years ago)

Good luck with your engine, there is vast experience within this site, I am relatively new with the L-series engine.

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Alex,

I do not know what the specs of a "C" cam is, others on this site certainly will. There are so many aftermarket grinds available, I would not limit myself to just a Nismo cam. I just put together a L28, flat top pistons set .010 out of deck (negative deck height) with a P79 head, and a calculated compression ratio of 9.65:1 (head milled .045), and a isky stage 1 cam (slightly higher lift .475, shorter duration, 270 advertised, 222 at .050) and made 180 hp to the rear wheels. I consulted extensively with Peter at PMC race engines, he was glad to help me with his vast experience with these engines. This engine has great power from 3,500-6.500, (see my dyno sheets on L28 Chumpcar dyno runs on this forum). This engine also just finished a 24 hour Chumpcar enduro in Spokane, WA over the weekend, so it has good durability. Isky is, in my opinion an excellent choice, and they will work with you to meet your goals. They charge around $140 to grind your cam. I had a whole box of cam followers surfaced at Delta cams in tacoma, WA for $3 apiece, some time ago, but isky can probably re-surface them as well. Todd at Wolfcreek is also an excellent choice (he rebuild a set of Solex 44 PHH for my Datsun 2000 roadster a few years ago)

Good luck with your engine, there is vast experience within this site, I am relatively new with the L-series engine.

 

 

The last pic I posted has the specs. This isn't my big build which is why I woul'dnt mind having it and spending a lot of money on a new cam. I have my f54 block sitting and waiting till my z is done and driving

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The last pic I posted has the specs. This isn't my big build which is why I woul'dnt mind having it and spending a lot of money on a new cam. I have my f54 block sitting and waiting till my z is done and driving

 

 

I just re-read your original post. C cam does not look like much of a cam. Also, you say above you do not want to spend much money, but the C cam you are looking at need to be touched up, which will cost you just as much as sending a stock cam off to have the grind of your choice. My two cents!

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I just re-read your original post. C cam does not look like much of a cam. Also, you say above you do not want to spend much money, but the C cam you are looking at need to be touched up, which will cost you just as much as sending a stock cam off to have the grind of your choice. My two cents!

 

 

Yeah, see thats what im thinking. Or just keep looking for another cam that is cheaper?

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"C" cam is tiny. It might be the best option when you're stuck with stock cams. When going aftermarket is an option, there is no reason to stick with something so puny. Get an aftermarket cam, and go much bigger for triples. For triples, I'd suggest you start in the .500/300 range. I ran a .490/280 and thought it was too small. Worked really well with SU's but was too small for the triples.

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"C" cam is tiny. It might be the best option when you're stuck with stock cams. When going aftermarket is an option, there is no reason to stick with something so puny. Get an aftermarket cam, and go much bigger for triples. For triples, I'd suggest you start in the .500/300 range. I ran a .490/280 and thought it was too small. Worked really well with SU's but was too small for the triples.

 

 

It's too small if I want to run it with intention of using my triples for a performance motor later? Do they not run right?

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Alex, the "C-cam" is not worth it, IMO. It has a little more duration and less lift, meaning it really isn't getting you anywhere. Might as well toss the cash into your toilet and flush.

 

I'm with Z-Greek, if you're spending money on a cam, spend it on one that makes sense and is tailored to your needs. Isky does regrinds for what it's going to take for you to buy that rusty cam. You will be far ahead using Isky. You'll want resurfaced rockers with any cam change.

 

It's too small if I want to run it with intention of using my triples for a performance motor later? Do they not run right?

You can run whatever cam you like with triples. I run a stock 240Z cam with my Webers and the low end torque is fantastic. Runs out of steam by 6000-6500rpm though. Stop by and I'll give you a ride sometime. ;)

 

It's all up to what you want. I bet Ron can set you up with a sweet street cam, all you need is a core.

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Alex, the "C-cam" is not worth it, IMO. It has a little more duration and less lift, meaning it really isn't getting you anywhere. Might as well toss the cash into your toilet and flush.

 

I'm with Z-Greek, if you're spending money on a cam, spend it on one that makes sense and is tailored to your needs. Isky does regrinds for what it's going to take for you to buy that rusty cam. You will be far ahead using Isky. You'll want resurfaced rockers with any cam change.

 

 

You can run whatever cam you like with triples. I run a stock 240Z cam with my Webers and the low end torque is fantastic. Runs out of steam by 6000-6500rpm though. Stop by and I'll give you a ride sometime. ;)

 

It's all up to what you want. I bet Ron can set you up with a sweet street cam, all you need is a core.

 

 

I see, yea since I don't know to much about cams yet, now I know the numbers looked better numbers wise, but couldn't tell how much better. I don't want to throw money away lol. I always wanted retro performance parts is my problem. Can I come by this weekend for the spin?! :)

 

Well Im im pretty sure i'll be ordering a different cam from a shop for the motor I want to put together when my cars done.

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The "C" cam is the stock camshaft in the US Spec 260Z. For some reason its got this mythical reputation as something special. It was sold by Nissan Comp as part number 13001-N3626 generally for ignorant guys cheating in ITS. The less ignorant would just pull the cam and rockers out of a junkyard 260Z for about $100 less then what Comp was charging for the N3626 cam. But that quickly became protest bait because all the other Z guys knew about it, so if you're 240Z was a bit faster then someone else the first thing asked in impound was to have the valve cover removed.

 

The performance gain for a street engine is not worth the expense or effort. For a race engine, other then a 2.6L running in ITS, its really not worth the expense or effort. In both cases you can get a much better cam for the same money.

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John C has the key phrase there: "It's a STOCK CAM"

 

There was a hotter one on the L20A's with Dual SU's, but for the effort of finding one and costs involved you will get FAR more payback from a custom ground cam.

 

The people obsessed with the "C" cam are either restricted by class to run 'stock' components, or are inveterate cheapskates who want to say they have "a cam", but without actually paying money requisite for one really tailored to their uses.

 

As similarly stated above, that cam is worthy as a core...for an ISKY grind, which will be MUCH more potent!

 

 

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I picked one up once as part of a complete head. It was on a 260Z motor and there was also a maxima in the same yard. i put the E88 C stamp cam, towers and rockers onto the MN47 head and left the junkyard with it for like $40. I don't know if it was worth the effort and time it took to swap it or not.

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Frankly, nowadays, I'll buy the head just to get the cam, same as Mack says.

 

"I get Jobber Price at Isky"

Which means, if I provide the JAPAN CORE, my price out the door is not much higher than the junkyard prices here, and CHEAPER than what the guy wants for the "C" cam!

This is what you get when you buy a buttload of cams over the years and don't quibble over the prices for the first 10 or 15 years...

 

cool.gif

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Got it. I'll probably pass on it, I thought it was supposed to be better then the other cams thats were stock. But after all thats been said I'll just stay with my "A" cam that doesn't need work. I have other cams to send in as cores, but since I was just putting my 70 back together and rebuilding the motor I thought the C would've been better and still in the stock area. Oh well... I'll save the cash.

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