Kash Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I blew my metal headgasket a few weeks ago after over adjusting my manual boost controller (up to 20psi). Needless to say I broke the ring lands on pistons 5 and 6 and I had water coming out of #6 and in my oil. I replaced both pistons and reassembled the engine with another p99a head that I had sitting around that I had straightened with a light skim a year ago to make sure it was true. I did not reused the metal headgasket that was installed when the engine blew up, instead, I installed another USED metal headgasket that I purchased form a fellow HybridZer. Got everything back together and had good compression across all six cylinders (140’s). I started it up and it was missing right out of the gate with water blowing out the turbine downpipe (exhaust not installed). Ran it for a little while and pulled the plugs: 1 thru 5 was nice and dry but # 6 was loaded with water. Checked my oil and it was milky, I drained out over 9 quarts of oil and water, I did not have this much water inmy oil when it first blew up and I ran the engine much longer then. Is it a bad headgasket, a cracked block or head? Don’t mind shelling out the $ for a new metal headgasket, if that’s it, just don’t to spend that kind of money if that’s not the problem. Any help diagnosing would be greatly appreciated. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 The only way to know is to open up the engine and inspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 Currenly have the head off but it is hard to discern the path of the water to #6 and the oil...the metal headgasket looks good to the eye (my eye - are there any key indicators when inspecting a metal headgasket?) and there are no visiable crack on the surface of the head or block deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 There is some stuff called block checker that you run in the coolant system...it'll turn blue if you've got a combustion chamber-to-water-jacket leak. Did you have the P90A head checked for cracks when you had it skim cut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) Unfortunately no, I didn't have it checked for cracks only to make sure that it was straight. I also had water mixing with the oil and getting into #6 with the original head after the headgasket blew; however, it was not as bad with the original metal headgasket. Edited August 21, 2012 by Kash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Use a straight edge on the block to see if it is warped or has gouge in it. I would extensively at the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 So after the 2nd headgasket, you have water in #6. I'd say take a look at the gasket, and especially the block itself. you might have a crack in the block. You may need to pull off the pan and pull the piston to inspect all the way down. from what you said you've got a lot of water leaking into the oil. Aside from that, the Block itself might need planing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 I'm really starting to think that it is the block because it was bored out to 89mm for my stroker build. I will pull piston #6 tomorrow and check for cracks in the cylinder wall. That would explain water in cylinder #6 but it would not explain that much water getting into the oil...cracks between the oil and water passages maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 When the piston is at TC, the crack would be on the crankcase side of the rings. If there was a crack couldn't you see it with the piston down the bore? Or are you holding the timing chain in place and can't rotate the crank? Sounds interesting. Weird problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Good point, I don't have top remove the piston. I can hold the chain tight and in-place while I rotate the crank/#6 to BDC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Number 6 cylinder wall is busted on the side between #5...dang it! My oversize stroker days are over. Thanks to all for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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