Leon Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 check these out http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/collectors-x-pipes-t-s-100/?osCsid=425f117e8023da44a13f439b4668347a Thanks from me as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) Exhaust is basically done now. A few more pics. Going to send off the header and the merge collector for ceramic coating soon - while I continue looking for an LD28 water pump. The header still needs some welding. I'll finish that when I pull it off the motor - now that the rest of the exhaust is completely done: Header to merge collector: A different view of the resonator in the tunnel: It's a tight fit: Then the pipe has to swing back to the slot in the rear crossmember: A good shot of how close the pipe is to the diff 'tang': 6" round muffler fits with room to spare: Nothing specific here, but you can get an idea of what kind of road clearance there will be. Rear diff mount "slot" fit on left side: Again, showing space to diff: Rear diff mount "slot" fit on right side: Resonator to floor/tunnel clearance: Edited December 23, 2012 by inline6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zohanisback Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Looks awesome. I also have to just throw out there that I had a cheap 30 buck eBay N1 muffler I through on a 2.5" exhaust. I also had the muffler guys laugh as they put it on, but when I drove off, it sounded super good. Haha, a fart can on a four banger honda sounds awful, but on a datsun, they sound super good. Just leave the silencer in for a nice smooth whiz through the entire power band. Inline6, yours looks super clean though! I want to put borla race exhaust or apexi on my ls1 datsun. There was a youtube video out there with a lexus v8 running apexi n1 mufflers. It totally disguises the fact you have a v8 under the hood and makes it sound more like a well done supra motor. Lol, trying to hide the fact that I have a v8 for a better "sleeper" effect. Nice workon yours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30 ounce Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Thats looks really good. How's it sound? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zstyle Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Im really excited to hear it, because I have the exact same setup im about to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 I am excited to hear it run too, but it is going to be a while longer before I can start it. I'm still looking for a maxima diesel water pump. Since that is taking forever, I'll send off the header and the merge collector to get them ceramic coated. Maybe by the time I get them back, I will have the water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 (edited) Got the header and the merge collector back from Jet Hot. Looks nice: Now I can put everything back on the engine and get it ready to start. While I had the welding gas and extra materials, I went ahead and made a "bypass" section so I could see how much of a difference the middle muffler/resonator makes in sound volume. Still no Maxima diesel pumps in the country. I couldn't even get a used pump... Tried the Nissan Diesel forum, emailed several salvage yards across the country, tried want ads here on hybridz... no luck. Even though my front engine cover has been modified for a diesel pump, I guess I have no choice but to put a stock water pump on there. Maybe I can get it fired up this weekend. We shall see. Video will be forthcoming! Edited January 24, 2013 by inline6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Ooh, shiny!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Oh... not the best place for the O2 sensor. It would be better in the 3" section. Did I suggest putting it in the merge itself (I hope not...)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackdogNY Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 You might want to get some ploy bushings for hangers. Those rubber ones will sag alot more then you think/want. With the pipes so close to everything, a rattle over anything you hit will be very annoying. I realize it may be too late but a stainless Supertrapp muffler by its lonesome is a awesome sound. Tuneable, rebuildable and relatively inexpensive. I have used them for 20 yrs. on daily drives, dumptruck(v10 Ford), and my Z. Just drove 2000 miles in my DD (to see my new to me '78) with no drone issues, hearing loss etc. This is with all of the packing removed and max. discs. I have used tons of mufflers, keep coming back to what is simple and works. Hope yours sounds like you want. Post a video when you finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Oh... not the best place for the O2 sensor. It would be better in the 3" section. Did I suggest putting it in the merge itself (I hope not...)? No, I didn't think to ask. My preference was to put it another eight or twelve inches downstream, but everything after the merge collector is stainless and I had a regular steel fitting... I couldn't put it in the 3" part of the merge collector because the transmission cross member is right there and I didn't move it any further forward because it would be on 3 cylinders only. So, is this a known, bad thing, or an unknown but certainly wouldn't think it is optimal kind of thing? What is the best solution? I welded the fitting as high up and out of the merge collector as possible to try to minimize obstruction... Should I put a plug in that one, and grind down the inside as flush as possible... and then buy a stainless fitting and weld that into the 3" stainless pipe a bit further back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 If you're fuel injected and not running a sequential setup, then moving it forward isn't a problem. You'll be monitoring one whole bank; and let's face it...if bank 2 goes nuts then having the O2 sensor monitor both won't be a good idea...bank 1 would be affected as well as 2! The L will run on 1-2-3 or 4-5-6, so it works as a bit of a failsafe system...it'll get you home, at least. Moving it further down is fine too, but having it in the merge puts it kinda in the way of the scavenge pulses, disrupts flow in a very important location, I'd think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 What I suggest is running the O2 sensor for tuning and then remove it once you have the maps and everything is set right or you can add a second port downstream and put the O2 sensor there. That minor throat after the merge is designed to increase velocity and creat a low pressure area in the cone section. Creating turbulence in that area will reduce its effectiveness - by how much I don't know. It may not make any difference at all. Its just not something I've ever seen tested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 You might want to get some ploy bushings for hangers. Those rubber ones will sag alot more then you think/want. With the pipes so close to everything, a rattle over anything you hit will be very annoying. I realize it may be too late but a stainless Supertrapp muffler by its lonesome is a awesome sound. Tuneable, rebuildable and relatively inexpensive. I have used them for 20 yrs. on daily drives, dumptruck(v10 Ford), and my Z. Just drove 2000 miles in my DD (to see my new to me '78) with no drone issues, hearing loss etc. This is with all of the packing removed and max. discs. I have used tons of mufflers, keep coming back to what is simple and works. Hope yours sounds like you want. Post a video when you finish. I'd never run a Supercrapp if performance mattered to me, in any sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackdogNY Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Oh do tell. What should I change to???? I am going by price, quality of sound, ease of install, and adjustablity(most track days are db limited).... not some dyno report that says so and so is .05hp better at 8500 rpm. I can drive with this set-up anywhere and not have the issues so many have complained about. They have proven themselves(to me) with a great sound accelerating and a fantastic popping on decel. Everybody has their favorite sound, this is mine, go put two mufflers, resonators, and whatever on yours....I will stick with headers/straight pipe/single muffler. I have tried flowmaster, magnaflow, dynomax, none have worked better or been less $. You also get the advantage of not spending stupid $ on a cool lookin' exhaust tip. Nice tips are about as much or more then some mufflers. If I ever get that crazy about my muffler costing HP, turning the boost up is a better(best) answer. Some might even say that the added weight of all that extra muffling is more of a HP loss. Hey, they will even keep the cridders from making a nest in your exhaust over the long winters. B&G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Oh do tell. What should I change to???? I am going by price, quality of sound, ease of install, and adjustablity(most track days are db limited).... not some dyno report that says so and so is .05hp better at 8500 rpm. I can drive with this set-up anywhere and not have the issues so many have complained about. They have proven themselves(to me) with a great sound accelerating and a fantastic popping on decel. Everybody has their favorite sound, this is mine, go put two mufflers, resonators, and whatever on yours....I will stick with headers/straight pipe/single muffler. I have tried flowmaster, magnaflow, dynomax, none have worked better or been less $. You also get the advantage of not spending stupid $ on a cool lookin' exhaust tip. Nice tips are about as much or more then some mufflers. If I ever get that crazy about my muffler costing HP, turning the boost up is a better(best) answer. Some might even say that the added weight of all that extra muffling is more of a HP loss. Hey, they will even keep the cridders from making a nest in your exhaust over the long winters. B&G http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81941-exhaust-tube-sizing-i-did-your-arithmetic-for-you/ Draw your own conclusions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackdogNY Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Conclusions, last test sounded best....nice popping on decel. A bit to ear bleeding for me. I thought you were saying my choice of muffer was 'crapp', so unless you have a video of said system no final conclusions can be made. Like I said everybody has a happy spot for exhaust sound. And no, I do not have a video of mine yet, it will have to wait til I get the car in my own timezone. All of that testing and math is great for racing, not your average street car. Most will most likely buy headers/pipes. I will build my new system that incorporates a little of both worlds, a bought header and a custom made system. Single 3" side exit. If I hear a new style of muffler that sounds better, I may ditch my Suppercrapp. For a trackday/street car like mine, having a nasty drone at low/mid rpm is not tolerable. I don't have that now and I can quiet the car down(a lot) if need be. Hey, how about a Slowmaster. Keep posting videos, my next great muffler may be out there(I am open minded about these things). B&G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Conclusions, last test sounded best....nice popping on decel. A bit to ear bleeding for me. I thought you were saying my choice of muffer was 'crapp', so unless you have a video of said system no final conclusions can be made. Like I said everybody has a happy spot for exhaust sound. And no, I do not have a video of mine yet, it will have to wait til I get the car in my own timezone. All of that testing and math is great for racing, not your average street car. Most will most likely buy headers/pipes. I will build my new system that incorporates a little of both worlds, a bought header and a custom made system. Single 3" side exit. If I hear a new style of muffler that sounds better, I may ditch my Suppercrapp. For a trackday/street car like mine, having a nasty drone at low/mid rpm is not tolerable. I don't have that now and I can quiet the car down(a lot) if need be. Hey, how about a Slowmaster. Keep posting videos, my next great muffler may be out there(I am open minded about these things). B&G I was speaking of performance, sound is a subjective matter. Plugging the exhaust pipe off with plates isn't quite ideal. Might as well stick a banana in the tailpipe. Their claim of tunability is BS as well. If you followed the linked thread, exhaust tuning is done mainly at the extractor and collector, not the pipe at the back. Those are my qualms with the "Supercrapp". Let's not even discuss the "Flowdisaster"... "Slowmaster"? I like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackdogNY Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I would not care if a system made twice the HP if it sounds like crap, who would want to drive the car. Crap is a subjective term which would include a bad drone or a sound like a Honda(with neon lites under it). They are tuneable....at least sound level. I have never dyno'd the car with more vs. less discs, I was more interested in being able to drive the car after a track offical said I was 'too loud'. And frankly, for the costs of dyno time, I am not about to. I agree it looks crazy having that endcap on there, it still sounds decent with it off. I was at Lime Rock for a track day(muffled) and a Z guy spent the entire day stuffing everything into his side exit pipe, from beer cans to random sheetmetal, to be compliant. Don't think he ever got there and maybe some fruit/veggies might have helped. Remember I am going for a streetish car. Annoying grumpy neighbors is just a plus. Not trying to get sponsored be them, just pointing their strong points. I am judging by sound quality/driveabily and $, not max. HP numbers. Maybe someone on here has spent the time to dyno a bunch of mufflers, I think Car Craft or Hot Rod did a test 20yrs ago that I read. " If you followed the linked thread, exhaust tuning is done mainly at the extractor and collector, not the pipe at the back." I did, Mainly, being the important word here. It seems equally silly to put extra muffling/weight on a car when it is not needed. B&G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I would not care if a system made twice the HP if it sounds like crap, who would want to drive the car. Crap is a subjective term which would include a bad drone or a sound like a Honda(with neon lites under it). They are tuneable....at least sound level. I have never dyno'd the car with more vs. less discs, I was more interested in being able to drive the car after a track offical said I was 'too loud'. And frankly, for the costs of dyno time, I am not about to. I agree it looks crazy having that endcap on there, it still sounds decent with it off. I was at Lime Rock for a track day(muffled) and a Z guy spent the entire day stuffing everything into his side exit pipe, from beer cans to random sheetmetal, to be compliant. Don't think he ever got there and maybe some fruit/veggies might have helped. Remember I am going for a streetish car. Annoying grumpy neighbors is just a plus. Not trying to get sponsored be them, just pointing their strong points. I am judging by sound quality/driveabily and $, not max. HP numbers. Maybe someone on here has spent the time to dyno a bunch of mufflers, I think Car Craft or Hot Rod did a test 20yrs ago that I read. " If you followed the linked thread, exhaust tuning is done mainly at the extractor and collector, not the pipe at the back." I did, Mainly, being the important word here. It seems equally silly to put extra muffling/weight on a car when it is not needed. B&G Not sure why you're still arguing, the point has been made: sound is subjective. I'd surely care (and I'm sure many others that prefer function over form, or sound in this case) if a system makes 2X the power, no matter what it sounds like. Effective muffling can be achieved without plugging the exhaust up. If you want to cork your exhaust for a "better" and quieter sound, then more power to you. Nobody's stopping you, please feel free. However, keep in mind that your definition of what "works" is likely different from someone else's. Yes, tuning is done mainly at the extractor and collector, as-in 99.9% of it. I don't want to further muddy-up this good thread. Sorry inline6, can't wait to see how the 3"-er turns out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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