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What to use on bare metal


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Hi all,

 

Well i pulled the old 240 out a couple of weeks ago after not working on it since March of 2009 and got the thing fired up. I was planning on just selling it, but after replacing the front wheel studs and throwing on the set of Rota's i bought a while back i am infected again with the Z virus and back to finishing the thing...

 

so here is the question i have for you all, when i put her away she was mostly down to bare metal. Being in New Mexico, we have no humidity so rust doesnt occur as it does elsewhere but a few spots of surface rust did appear. I have thoroughly resanded the areas but i can't seem to get it out of some of the scratches that were left behind from when i removed all the paint. I was wondering if there was some sort of wipe i could use to prep the areas or if i need to get out a angle grinder with a flap disk and potentially maul the metal. It really is tiny if not microscopic spots, but I dont want all the work i have behind me (and in front of me) to be for nothing.

 

thanks for the help and i will post some picks in a little bit.

 

thanks again!

Edited by slo929
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I have a second vote for OSPHO, on a red scotchbrite pad.

 

THEN you can use red scotchbrite and lacquer thinner.

 

Lacquer thinner will never get corrosion in scratches, OSPHO will leave truly bare metal with no corrosion. I prefer it over naval jelly which will also work, but IMO OSPHO cleans off easier/better.

 

Good Luck!

 

*Edit* Well, the three part series by my friend Pete... It's a nice idea, that Vinegar Water. I'll still ike OSPHO or going with dilute Phosphoric/Hydrochloric Acid. The difference between that Vinegar-Rust Conversion and OSPHO/Dilute HCL is that all the metal is that "clean sterilized white" color, there won't be any of that black "converted rust"...

 

That is a nice series of videos, but I was a bit turned off at the negative marketing. I don't know how they do it in Texas, but using OSPHO is pretty standard stuff, I can't think of a shop that doesn't do it. So maybe it's a regional warning.

Edited by Tony D
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  • 3 weeks later...

I use 'Rust-Mort' made by SEM...it's main active ingrediant is phosphoric acid that sets in the rust and eats it but doesnt damage the steel. Clean with laquer thinner, and then apply an epoxy primer directly to the metal. Ive got about a dozen classics including my own Z with no problems of rust returning in the last 10 yrs. On my facebook, there was several photos of the bodywork on my 76 if u wanna check it out. Facebook.com/classickustomsgarage

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