scartail Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Nice project. How much the stock 260z tranny hold? Is it that under-rated? Maybe dumb question. I'm looking at the same swap for my 280z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 If I weld the Diff, it won't happen till I have the LSD ready to install. I just want to try it for myself to get first hand experience and hopefully blow through some tires I honestly don't know what the 260z tranny can handle, pretty sure there is a sticky about all the trannies. I am using the 5-speed Borg-Warner out of the zx turbo. Progress is still slow until I find out about my summer job. If I dont get the job the project will basically be put on hold until the fall or if I can find something else as I will only have enough money to eat and pay bills for two months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Well I just posted for help in the drivetrain section. The differential flange out of my 83 R200 from the 280zxt is no where close to the right size to swap into my R180. This guide http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/ clearly states that it should so I'm confused. Maybe I don't have an R200 or an R180 and one of the POs for either car swapped it ? Seems unlikely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 (edited) Well I just posted for help in the drivetrain section. The differential flange out of my 83 R200 from the 280zxt is no where close to the right size to swap into my R180. This guide http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/ clearly states that it should so I'm confused. Maybe I don't have an R200 or an R180 and one of the POs for either car swapped it ? Seems unlikely Where exactly does the guide clearly state that an R200 input flange is interchangeable with an R180? Edited May 7, 2013 by Leon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 About two thirds of the way down he talks about swapping out the flange....I assumed he was swapping into an R180 since the article is about putting a t5 from an 83 turbo into a 240z. Not clearly stated but implied I guess. I still need to figure out the best course of action. -Weld the flange from the 260z driveshaft to the 280zxt driveshaft while shortening it (diameter difference may be a problem?) - just make a custom driveshaft with remove able u-joints and such? - try and put the "R200" in? I really wanted to wait till I could afford an LSD to do any expensive custom work to the rearend. But my credit card may just need to take a hit here. Man I hope I get this new job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 (edited) About two thirds of the way down he talks about swapping out the flange....I assumed he was swapping into an R180 since the article is about putting a t5 from an 83 turbo into a 240z. Not clearly stated but implied I guess. I still need to figure out the best course of action. -Weld the flange from the 260z driveshaft to the 280zxt driveshaft while shortening it (diameter difference may be a problem?) - just make a custom driveshaft with remove able u-joints and such? - try and put the "R200" in? I really wanted to wait till I could afford an LSD to do any expensive custom work to the rearend. But my credit card may just need to take a hit here. Man I hope I get this new job! Right, he's not very clear, and I don't think he even implies that R180 and R200 input flanges interchange. With that said, that site is more of a primer for those starting to learn about Zs. There is a good bit of misleading and erroneous information on his site, so don't treat it like gospel. Putting in an R200 requires zero "custom" work. It's bolt-in as long as you have an R200 mustache bar. Edited May 8, 2013 by Leon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 I did some reading about the R200 swap and JMortensen's guide on the differentials states that I will need the following parts to complete it: 1. mustache bar from 280Z with R2002. yoke (companion flange) from 280Z with R2003. rear cover from 280Z or ZX with R2004. side stub shafts from 280Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to stock halfshafts I'm a little worried I didn't grab the mustache bar off the donor car before it went to scrap :/ ...I hate the feeling of thinking I forgot something. He states that the side stud shafts need to be from a 280z or ZX. Think I read they have a different splin count. But can't find where. Maybe ill pop one out of the R180 just to check. Mine has the CVs and both are shot. I think ill pull the R180 out friday or saturday and see if I can source everything for a swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Mustache bars pop up here and elsewhere, usually $50-75 a piece. Same deal for the diff side stub axles. If you already have the driveshaft that came with the T5/R200 combo, all you need is the mustache bar and axles to complete the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Won't the T5 driveshaft be a ZX driveshaft and of the wrong length? Won't fit a Z body? It will need to be cut. Plus you have an early body, which causes problems. Binding half-shafts with the R200 swap. Cut driveshaft, mustache bar, 280Z R200 stub axles, shortening a half-shaft to avoid binding - getting expensive and it's not even what you really want. The very cheapest, simplest in-the-mean-time option might be back to the R180. The ZX T5 driveshaft is probably the wrong length anyway. Have a custom shaft made, with the right flange for the R180 on it, and take it easy on the diff. The Subaru R180 swap in the early bodies is popular, I think, because it avoids all of those problems that seem small but actually take a lot of work and money to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) I was just about to bring my two driveshafts to my neighbor who can weld the flange from the 260z shaft to the ZX shaft and shorten it. When I got excited about the swap. If I'm buying side stub shafts, a mustache bar, and shortening the driveshaft, along with the concern about halfshafts being too long and causing handling issues, then maybe it is a better option to just customize the driveshaft for now. It wont be long before I'll be shopping for an LSD swap and It doesn't make sense to spend the time and moey twice. .....I really appreciate all the knowledge and help on this site. I literally sit there feeling overwhelmed at times until I come here and find what I need. What are your thoughts on the smaller u-joint on the back of the ZX driveshaft? I suppose if i blow it up its only a bandaid for now anyway. Edited May 10, 2013 by Co0ke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 While I'm waiting on the Driveshaft, I decided to tackle the fuel pump, radiator, vacuum hoses and some of the wiring this weekend. I'll post some pictures, maybe later today. I got stuck a few times but think I grasp most of it. Current issues: -Fuel pump relay - I forgot to grab this off the donor but there is a ton of just standard relays still attached to other harnesses. Can I just use a standard relay? it plugs right up or is there something special about the fuel pump relay? -Fusable links...Looks like I need a few that I didn't grab hopefully I can find some in my mess of wires (not sure if I've seen what one looks like lol) - Condensor that connects the Coil to the distributer....What does this look like? I must have it but dont know what I'm looking for anyone have a picture? - Crank Angle senor is in the distributer ive been told but does it need to be connected somehow? - Oil pressure sender has two connectors, the 260z one had one. I read that one is a switch or something the other is for your gauge. is this correct? so I can just attach a wire to whatever the correct connecter is and get a reading? Thats it for now that can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 I picked up a relay from autozone for $9.00 seems to work for me. I think as long as it has these prongs you should be fine. Went through all that 2 weeks ago. I didnt have the actual factory plastic receiver that the harness attaches to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 While I'm waiting on the Driveshaft, I decided to tackle the fuel pump, radiator, vacuum hoses and some of the wiring this weekend. I'll post some pictures, maybe later today. I got stuck a few times but think I grasp most of it. Current issues: -Fuel pump relay - I forgot to grab this off the donor but there is a ton of just standard relays still attached to other harnesses. Can I just use a standard relay? it plugs right up or is there something special about the fuel pump relay? -Fusable links...Looks like I need a few that I didn't grab hopefully I can find some in my mess of wires (not sure if I've seen what one looks like lol) I took the ceramic block off the 260z's coil that has some ignition hot connectors. Here is a picture. I attached the coil mount that had this already attached and piggybacked with the turbo's coil mount. I also went to autozone and bought some fused wires that I ran off the starter positive to feed the ECU and the fuel pump relay. Did not take picks of that, but will for you if you want. - Condensor that connects the Coil to the distributer....What does this look like? I must have it but dont know what I'm looking for anyone have a picture? I didnt take a picture of this but its the usual round tube(metal) has a mounting prong in a shape of a Y, attaches to the coil bracket mount bolt. - Crank Angle senor is in the distributer ive been told but does it need to be connected somehow? Yes it is a round to round plug. The distributor has it and is about 6 inches long, plugs into the ECU. Pretty straight forward. - Oil pressure sender has two connectors, the 260z one had one. I read that one is a switch or something the other is for your gauge. is this correct? so I can just attach a wire to whatever the correct connecter is and get a reading? Yes if you have the 280zx sender pretty straight forward. plug and play. Thats it for now that can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 Thanks, the relay I grabbed had all those prongs and plugged into the old female end. It came out of a cluster. Hopefully it works. Forgot to take a decent shot of the coil. Every wire coming out has a place to go. So I'm assuming all is well and the small box with the T connection looks like the ignitor to me. The round plug blue wire plugged into the harness and goes to the tach I believe. I have what appears to be the condensor on my old coil just one y connector to the mounting bolt. Aside from the CAS wire which plugs nicely into the harness, this wire is coming out of the distributor can't figure out where it goes or if its important? Oil sender T connector. A way to test or know which goes to the gauge? does it matter? Figured out the Green and Brown wires ....have the old fusable link box. Must have known it was important and kept it Here's a pic of where the intake is at. I know most of these can be deleted. Will any need something to compensate for them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 The round 4 prong out of the distributor should go directly into the harness with a similar looking connection. There is also a single male prong that is on the side of the distributor, it goes the the T shape of the ignitor on the coil. The intake items you are talking about are for cold start and I believe blow off. Yes not much needed. I switched my intake to a non turbo one that only has the cold start switch. Pretty sure that the oil sender does not matter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 It's official! I have a job this summer and can now spend all my $$$$$$$ on the Z! Ordered a boost gauge and an inline fuel pressure gauge, hopefully they get here before the weekend and I can get the car fired up! The round 4 prong out of the distributor should go directly into the harness with a similar looking connection. I will check this all out this weekend, maybe I just looked at the harness wrong and prejudged whether that wire would plug in. There is also a single male prong that is on the side of the distributor, it goes the the T shape of the ignitor on the coil. I plugged this into the harness, and the blue wire from the harness into the female on the coil. Ill check the diagram. The intake items you are talking about are for cold start and I believe blow off. Yes not much needed. I switched my intake to a non turbo one that only has the cold start switch. gonna run some vacuum lines and pinch off some others and see how it runs then start to delete, maybe source out and N42 intake. Pretty sure that the oil sender does not matter! Cool, that would make life easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 At my pace you may be cruising before I do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 I found the condensor! Didn't take any pics of that yet but it all makes sense now. I have four condensors.....from somewhere i don't know, but three of them have only one connection and I was so confused as to how it was meant to hook up. Anyway I got pissed on Monday and took everything out of my garage, re-organized and stumbled across the condensor with two connections! Driveshaft is in....not balanced. Cut the U-joint off the old one, used a 1" strip to increase the diameter and tapped it snuggly into the larger zxt driveshaft. Definitely custom, hopefully holds up and doesn't vibrate or I'll just drop the money on a custom one. Still have to finish wiring up the fuel relay. I attached the black/W wire to the fusable link box and to the battery and the EFI Relay clicked....so that didn't seem right without a key in the ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 At my pace you may be cruising before I do! Looks like your about to cruise around ...I need at least anoth week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 (edited) Still have to finish wiring up the fuel relay. I attached the black/W wire to the fusable link box and to the battery and the EFI Relay clicked....so that didn't seem right without a key in the ignition. Wait. What? The Black/White originates at the IGN switch and energizes at IGN ON to power various components. Are you mistaking the White/Black that originates at the battery, through a fusable link, then to the Fuel pump relay as a "source" voltage for the pump? (Also "source" voltage to the IGN switch) Don't confuse those two... Edited May 29, 2013 by cgsheen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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