dwarlick Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Tomei Makes an assortment of cams for the DET. I don't know that they will work for this applicaion or not since they are all turbo cams. I want the peak HP to be on the high end RPM wise while still keeping the motor drivable nothing too extreme. The lifters may need to be solid as I have heard the hydrolic lifters don't always behave well under high RPMs. I am still in the brainstorming stages on the motor, but it is hard not to get sucked in to the "while your at it" thinking when you talk about replacing cams and pistons. We will get the stock DET motor running in the chasis in the next few weeks. I'm sure it will run like poop with the carbs, but I want to get all the fab work done before I tear down the chasis for paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 I got sucked into that "might as well" thing when I did my swap. Haha. I have read the same thing about the lifters. Those are super pricey; I think Tomei ones are like $450 for the set. But if you swap over to those you might be able to get away with RB26 cams for a while; I know that they have larger lift and such. But again you'd run into the problem of being tuned for a turbo motor and not an n/a motor. There must be custom cams like kelford or something out of AUS for an n/a RB; I know they are everything RB over there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 We make up a cam , we weld up rb26 cams and do a NA grind , we coppy a LZ nissan works grind 76 or if we want a real hi rpm skremer we do a 80 works grind ,,,, wade cams in melbourne does them for us .. i built them for my rb26 head on a L block motor , i went for the 76 ex cam and 78 inlet they will rpm to 10000rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 I had heard both versions of the "2" but tony is correct. I do think the 2.0 would be appropriate for this build. As for the timing Matt at mega squirt said the CAS will work with the AEM wheel. He thought a crank trigger would be easier though. Since I did the trigger wheel swap before and know it only took about 10 min. I will try that first. I'd rather not clutter up the front with a crank sensor. The other nice thing is I can use the MS 1 which has an internal igniter they also sell a six post coil pack which should be nice and tidy. The whole lot is less than 500 bucks. I have already bought an RB20det motor and tranny local for super cheep. If nothing else I'll use it to do the mock up for the intake and exhaust and get a DE later. I spoke to ARias and they can make some flat top pistons with the stock 10.2-1 de compression. Does anyone know if the bottom end is stronger on the det than the de? One would think it would be because of the added horseys. I would also need to figure out the cams. Since i got the motor so cheep would it be better at this point to rework the RB20 or get a DE shipped to me for about $1k? And which would have the higher rev potential? The mikunis are en route. I am making a similar engine theme on the side will finish it sometime in April, as my Z is still not done. According to the research which I did Rb25/30 is better then 26/30 in terms or cost. Not sure about RB20. Engines are cheap here got a RB30 for 350$ and RB26 head for 500$. I got some quotes from people in Australia (NITTO,JSE) they can do custom pistons to increase the compression in NA built to 10+ for 1300$. I bought an RB26 intake manifold from Mike (Nzeder) he did the initial work to make adaptor plates to fit any DOCE carbs bolt on, injector holes closed and water lines rerouted. Now recently I am thinking of getting RB25DE Neo engine and use the head and slap it on the RB30 block, compression issues will be easier and cheaper to sort that way. It will be cheaper job here to get the intake manifold adjusted to fit carbs bolt on to it. But still not decided. For the distributor and ignition there is an Australian guy here in Dubai who will tune my car through adaptronic standalone ecu, according to him it will be easy to run without getting distributor through that. Its better to do it on RB25/30 then RB20 that my opnion and If any of you guys want any help in getting engine (RB30s) let me know I think it will work out 600-800$ with shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Sorry forgot to post these pictures from a KGC10 here its a RB20 with triple carbs (40DOCE), he is not that happy as cant run bigger carbs on this and might be changing to RB26DE (he has one of those rare ones) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 Thank you for the pictures. I am confused is that the picture of the reworked RB26 intake manifold on an RB20? Or is that someone elses motor if so what intake manifold is that? It appears OEM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 We make up a cam , we weld up rb26 cams and do a NA grind , we coppy a LZ nissan works grind 76 or if we want a real hi rpm skremer we do a 80 works grind ,,,, wade cams in melbourne does them for us .. i built them for my rb26 head on a L block motor , i went for the 76 ex cam and 78 inlet they will rpm to 10000rpm Hmmmm very interested in that. any details? writeup somewhere? Pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Hmmmm very interested in that. any details? writeup somewhere? Pics? His thread about it is here, there's a picture in the first post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104581-twin-cam-l6-34l/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Thank you for the pictures. I am confused is that the picture of the reworked RB26 intake manifold on an RB20? Or is that someone elses motor if so what intake manifold is that? It appears OEM. Looks to be a factory RB20 manifold that's had DCOE flanges welded to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Sorry stony I gave up posting on the TC to many people giving me a hard time .. its going and runs well will be sold soon , no more racing ,for a wile ; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 The flanges are welded to the old intake the alignment is pretty close it will require a little grinding to smooth out the rough edges. Now on to the linkage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Now that looks cool. Hopefully it starts and runs. May not make a lot of power because the compression ratio will be low and cams being tuned for a turbo and boost, but that all can all be fixed. Either way, looking nice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Bad news on the header. The Coby header I ordered from NZ will not fit at all the steering rod is right in the middle of where the route and they hit the TC rod mount on the frame rail. Looks like custom is the only way. Oh well I wanted a highrise manifold anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 (edited) Its been a slow process getting this thing going but I do have a few updates. The motor is running and the ignition system is firing correctly I abandoned the Megasquirt/CAS attempt and opted for a Megajolt/EDIS setup. I could have used the Megasquirt with EDIS which is what Matt at Megasquirt kept telling me but I was intent on using the CAS in my attempt to mod the board to read the CAS I fried it following the wrong wiring diagram. The megajolt setup is super simple and very small. The coby header was able to be retro fitted and looks very nice the guy who did it did an amazing job and you can't even tell it has been modified. I found a very nice Fujitsubo exhaust from Japan that is commonly used on the Z432. I will make a video of the motor running and take a few more pictures in the next few weeks. After I get the drivetrain sorted I am going to strip the car down to the shell and get it off to paint. While it's in jail I am going to swap the cams and pistons for n/a. Edited May 17, 2013 by dwarlick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Sweet! Good job following through on the project. Very cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 Here is a picture of the modified header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Nice! looking good. Still have the DET compression or did you swap them for higher compression pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 I am still in the mock up stage. I want to get all of the parts fitted then when I dismantle for paint I will change the cams and pistons while the motor is out of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 Believe it or no this project is progressing. The body is very close to being ready for paint. The floor pans were replaced and the frame was trued up and straightened on the frame machine. I am very happy with the job this shop has done. It has been with them for a long time but they have worked steady on it the entire time they have had it. I can't imagine the hours they have in this rotisserie restoration. I can't wait to see it painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 (edited) In the mean time I have been accumulating parts for the build. I have a few rare JDM parts that will help to make this closer to an actual z432 rather than just the look. My goal is to simulate the driving experience as close as possible. JDM Tail lights (reproduction) JDM Grill (NOS) PS30 10K Tach (Used) Edited September 12, 2014 by dwarlick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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