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dwarlick

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Tomei Makes an assortment of cams for the DET. I don't know that they will work for this applicaion or not since they are all turbo cams.  I want the peak HP to be on the high end RPM wise while still keeping the motor drivable nothing too extreme.  The lifters may need to be solid as I have heard the hydrolic lifters don't always behave well under high RPMs.  I am still in the brainstorming stages on the motor, but it is hard not to get sucked in to the "while your at it" thinking when you talk about replacing cams and pistons.  We will get the stock DET motor running in the chasis in the next few weeks.  I'm sure it will run like poop with the carbs, but I want to get all the fab work done before I tear down the chasis for paint.

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I got sucked into that "might as well" thing when I did my swap. Haha.

 

I have read the same thing about the lifters. Those are super pricey; I think Tomei ones are like $450 for the set. But if you swap over to those you might be able to get away with RB26 cams for a while; I know that they have larger lift and such. But again you'd run into the problem of being tuned for a turbo motor and not an n/a motor. There must be custom cams like kelford or something out of AUS for an n/a RB; I know they are everything RB over there.

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We make up a cam ,  we weld up rb26 cams and do a NA grind , we coppy a LZ nissan works grind 76 or if we want a real hi rpm skremer  we do a 80 works grind ,,,, wade cams in melbourne does them for us .. i built them for my rb26 head on a L  block motor , i went for the 76 ex cam and 78 inlet  they will rpm to 10000rpm

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I had heard both versions of the "2" but tony is correct. I do think the 2.0 would be appropriate for this build.

As for the timing Matt at mega squirt said the CAS will work with the AEM wheel. He thought a crank trigger would be easier though. Since I did the trigger wheel swap before and know it only took about 10 min. I will try that first. I'd rather not clutter up the front with a crank sensor. The other nice thing is I can use the MS 1 which has an internal igniter they also sell a six post coil pack which should be nice and tidy. The whole lot is less than 500 bucks.

 

I have already bought an RB20det motor and tranny local for super cheep. If nothing else I'll use it to do the mock up for the intake and exhaust and get a DE later. I spoke to ARias and they can make some flat top pistons with the stock 10.2-1 de compression. Does anyone know if the bottom end is stronger on the det than the de? One would think it would be because of the added horseys.  I would also need to figure out the cams.  Since i got the motor so cheep would it be better at this point to rework the RB20 or get a DE shipped to me for about $1k?  And which would have the higher rev potential?

 

The mikunis are en route. 

 

I am making a similar engine theme on the side will finish it sometime in April, as my Z is still not done. According to the research which I did Rb25/30 is better then 26/30 in terms or cost. Not sure about RB20. Engines are cheap here got a RB30 for 350$ and RB26 head for 500$. I got some quotes from people in Australia (NITTO,JSE) they can do custom pistons to increase the compression in NA built to 10+ for 1300$.

 

I bought an RB26 intake manifold from Mike (Nzeder) he did the initial work to make adaptor plates to fit any DOCE carbs bolt on, injector holes closed and water lines rerouted.

 

Now recently I am thinking of getting RB25DE Neo engine and use the head and slap it on the RB30 block, compression issues will be easier and cheaper to sort that way. It will be cheaper job here to get the intake manifold adjusted to fit carbs bolt on to it. But still not decided.

 

For the distributor and ignition there is an Australian guy here in Dubai who will tune my car through adaptronic standalone ecu, according to him it will be easy to run without getting distributor through that.

 

Its better to do it on RB25/30 then RB20 that my opnion and If any of you guys want any help in getting engine (RB30s) let me know I think it will work out 600-800$ with shipping.

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We make up a cam ,  we weld up rb26 cams and do a NA grind , we coppy a LZ nissan works grind 76 or if we want a real hi rpm skremer  we do a 80 works grind ,,,, wade cams in melbourne does them for us .. i built them for my rb26 head on a L  block motor , i went for the 76 ex cam and 78 inlet  they will rpm to 10000rpm

Hmmmm very interested in that. any details? writeup somewhere? Pics? 

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Thank you for the pictures.  I am confused is that the picture of the reworked RB26 intake manifold on an RB20?  Or is that someone elses motor if so what intake manifold is that?  It appears OEM. 

 

Looks to be a factory RB20 manifold that's had DCOE flanges welded to it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Bad news on the header.  The Coby header I ordered from NZ will not fit at all the steering rod is right in the middle of where the route and they hit the TC rod mount on the frame rail.  Looks like custom is the only way.  Oh well I wanted a highrise manifold anyway.

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  • 3 months later...

Its been a slow process getting this thing going but I do have a few updates.  The motor is running and the ignition system is firing correctly I abandoned the Megasquirt/CAS attempt and opted for a Megajolt/EDIS setup.  I could have used the Megasquirt with EDIS which is what Matt at Megasquirt kept telling me but I was intent on using the CAS in my attempt to mod the board to read the CAS I fried it following the wrong wiring diagram.  The megajolt setup is super simple and very small.

 

The coby header was able to be retro fitted and looks very nice the guy who did it did an amazing job and you can't even tell it has been modified.  I found a very nice Fujitsubo exhaust from Japan that is commonly used on the Z432.  I will make a video of the motor running and take a few more pictures in the next few weeks.  After I get the drivetrain sorted I am going to strip the car down to the shell and get it off to paint.  While it's in jail I am going to swap the cams and pistons for n/a. 

 

post-1679-0-45008200-1368760967_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by dwarlick
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Believe it or no this project is progressing.  The body is very close to being ready for paint.  The floor pans were replaced and the frame was trued up and straightened on the frame machine.  I am very happy with the job this shop has done.  It has been with them for a long time but they have worked steady on it the entire time they have had it.  I can't imagine the hours they have in this rotisserie restoration.  I can't wait to see it painted.   

 

 

image_zps2110d923.jpeg

 

image_5_zps768e4e46.jpeg

 

image_2_zps00468e6d.jpeg

 

image_4_zpsda2c24b1.jpeg

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In the mean time I have been accumulating parts for the build.  I have a few rare JDM parts that will help to make this closer to an actual z432 rather than just the look.  My goal is to simulate the driving experience as close as possible.

 

JDM Tail lights (reproduction)

 

IMG_0332_zps030b716f.jpg

 

JDM Grill (NOS)

 

IMG_0338_zpsd742417f.jpg

 

PS30 10K Tach (Used)

 

IMG_0337_zps4a2adaba.jpg

Edited by dwarlick
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