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LS1 240Z AC


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I am getting old so it is time for AC! :icon45:

 

The 240z is in need of a major wiring overhaul so while the dash is going to be out (again) figure time to add AC. So wanted to make a new thread documenting the install and the parts needed. If anyone has done so before chime in for sure. Parts to be ordered:

 

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-66005-vuz-a or http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-31700-vbd/media/images
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-491229/media/images

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-547000

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-03262-vuc

http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm - AC compressor mount and drive

 

 

As I do more research actual part numbers may be changed and will be updated as I go through this install.

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Clive:

 

I did the Vintage Air swap as well.  Mine is a slightly different model, but very similar.  The set that I originally purchased had the billet electric controls but to keep the Datsun look, I sent my vent control panel and all cables to them and they swapped out the electric controls for the cables.  Now, it at least appears to be stock.  The A/C control (a rotary knob) is mounted where the cig lighter is and I swapped the cig lighter "knob" on to the rotary switch.

 

Bryan

Dat240zg

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Clive,

 

I am going the same route as you (for the most part) but I might not get to that stage before you.  I purchased pretty much the same items as you, directly from Vintage Air..

  • Vintage Air Gen II Mini Heat, Cool and Defrost
  • 4 knob panel - black
  • Sanden SD 508 compressor
  • 3-way safety switch
  • Hose kit w/drier Connector kit
  • 12"x24" condenser w/brackets
  • 4-way diamond bulkhead
  • Aluminum compressor clutch cover

As always I changed my mind a dozen times since then and will probably change it again.  The major changes I made relates to the decision to use the OE AC compressor in the stock location which required my Corvette C5 motor mount approach.  I also had to notch the frame rail to accommodate the compressor.  Because of this the Sanden SD 508 compressor and billet cover plate is available if you would like to go that route.  The last item up in the air is how and where to pass the lines through the firewall.  I am finding it difficult to put the lines in a reasonable location with respect to the Mini II body while keeping the look clean and avoiding the passenger foot well.  We can talk more live about this if you want.  Give me a shout sometime.

 

 

post-4776-0-07040400-1358093466_thumb.jpg

post-4776-0-75328700-1358093505_thumb.jpg

post-4776-0-69209900-1358093703_thumb.jpg

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Clive:

 

I did the Vintage Air swap as well.  Mine is a slightly different model, but very similar.  The set that I originally purchased had the billet electric controls but to keep the Datsun look, I sent my vent control panel and all cables to them and they swapped out the electric controls for the cables.  Now, it at least appears to be stock.  The A/C control (a rotary knob) is mounted where the cig lighter is and I swapped the cig lighter "knob" on to the rotary switch.

 

Bryan

Dat240zg

 

Hi Bryan,

 

Very interesting approach! I'm currently in the process of finding an alternative to the vacuum system on my 280 (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110501-ac-vacuum-setup/). Do you think it's possible to take the stock 280 system to an AC shop (or somewhere with the appropriate expertise) and have them modify it to be strictly cable operated? 

 

Jeff

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Clive - I'm betting that anything is possible.  It's been a long time since I've looked at the back side of a 280 HVAC system.  It's all vaccum lines isn't it?  I'm betting that they'd be able to hook the cables to the 280Z controls, but just a heads up, it's really tight in there.  I have a slight problem with the cables binding, specifically the one for the defroster and the heat, which both run on top of the unit.  It gets real snug up there with the defroster lines and the center vents, etc.

 

Bryan

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Jeff,

 

I have seen post on classiczcar about guys having the vintage air units converted to cable for their 240z cars but not for the 280z. Why do you want to convert your 280z to cable?

 

My primary motivation is to clean-up the engine bay and remove the extraneous hoses, electrical components, and vacuum canister. On the other hand, I've had some folks say that it's not necessary to switch to cable operated and that the AC will continue to work without vacuum assist (although there may be a slight delay in terms of responsiveness). I'd certainly be receptive to other suggestions/guidance as well!

 

 

P.S. Apologies for hijacking your thread. 

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Here is something I am not sure of - is the AC circuit needed in my ls1 harness? When I got the harness made a few years ago I wasn't thinking about AC so now that it isn't there can I run the AC without? Basically I know when the AC is turned on usually the ecu will raise the idle to make up for the new load. I am guessing since the 240z didn't have a computer back in the 70s the aftermarket units were just run as is. Thinking out loud here and looking to keep the cost down if I don't need to buy another harness or maybe even run a seperate one if needed.

 

 

Bryan - how would you rate your AC system in the Z? I know it is a huge improvement from not having anything but how would you compare it to modern cars? I have never been in any s30 cars with AC.

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Necessary, no. You can turn on the compressor with a toggle switch if you wanted to.

 

I could be wrong but I think 240's relied on a vacuum actuated anti stall dashpot that raised the idle when the AC was on.

 

I'm pretty sure the vintage air systems typically have a wire that will run the clutch. Personally I'd just run it and see how much the rpm's dip when the compressor is engaged. I'd venture to say that a smallish compressor on a big LS wouldn't be drawing enough power to dip the idle that much. No harm in waiting to see if that is a problem later.

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I like it!  Slick means of hiding most of the plumbing.  I'll admit, I am a little confused however.  From the images it would appear the lines to and from the condensor are routed through the fresh air duct.  At what point does the line from the evaporator to the condensor go into the engine bay to connect to the inlet and outlet of the compressor?  Any images of that portion?

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EvilC - My parts list looks exactly like yours listed above.  This is where I'm at with the A/C install...

 

*  Bought -

  *  Vintage Air GenII Mini

  *  JCI compressor, mounting brackets

  *  Vingage air 4 knob controller

  *  Vintage air 4 way firewall bulkhead

 

*  Installed -

  *  GenII Mini - made custom brackets similar to Litman

  *  JCI compressor and mounting brackets - they fit great (needed to dust off a few interference points at the water pump but no big deal)

 

*  Need to buy this week -

  *  Vintage Air Condenser

  *  Vintage air hose kit

  *  Hose crimp kit

 

Not sure how I'm going to like the appearace of the 4 knob controller so I bought another used vent control panel to play around with if I want to go back to a stock appearance. 

 

I modified my own LS F body harness for my project and removed the A/C circuits as well.  My understanding is...

 

1)  No idle increase (not that big of a deal because I think the computer will compenstate the RPM to hit the target value regardless of the reason for the decrease/load)

2)  Turn the fan on when the A/C is turned on or when the A/C pressure switch requires incremental fan adjustment (regardless of engine coolant temperature)

 

I may add the A/C circuits back to the harness to address #2 for better A/C performance.

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