PMC raceengines Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 (edited) Just some pics off a stroker im building for a road rally engine engine was sonic tested and then grout filled to the top of the welsh plugs and then torque plate bored and honed to 89mm , all oil plugs have been removed and internaly cleaned , i also milled the block to make room for the crank , then it was spin washed and cleand , before paint in side and out main bearings were set at 2.3 to 2.4 th and thrust at 0.006 , block was very straght and the crank turns very well , 1 finger spins the crank with ease , rods are honda 18b 137mm long 400g with arp 2000 bolts clearance was set at 0.002 piston is a forged sps with 1 mm top ring 1.2 sec ring 3mm oil ring piston has a +6cc bump as the head is a p90 will post more pics as i build it this week and a vid as it hit the engine dyno Edited January 17, 2013 by PMC raceengines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Great work as usual. Already looking forward to more updates as things progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Wow Peter, that thing should really bark. Beautiful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) Some more pics , pistons in and timing guides and a brass oil pump drive fitted , next up the p90 with water mods and port work pics Edited January 18, 2013 by PMC raceengines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) More soon Edited January 18, 2013 by PMC raceengines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffp Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 You just may want to consider a chain adjuster. Get that piston off the job and go manual adjuster. That will keep valve train stability, you don't have room for chain slop, it does make a big difference. and while you are at it, buy the adjustable cam gear, and make sure the cam timing is matching the cam card. looks like a cool build. What is the static compression with the extra 6cc's of piston space? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZGhost623 Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Is this with the RB/Skyline crankshaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 (edited) Thanks jeffp lol after 300+ L builds i never new anything like that about the cam timing lol and yes its a rb30 crank thats been worked over to fit , just so you know Jeff i have my own range of parts for the L motor like cnc cam gears and brass oil pump drives, and yes we do know how to time a cam .. thanks Edited January 27, 2013 by PMC raceengines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 ...I have my own range of parts for the L motor like cnc cam gears and brass oil pump drives... What bolt in upgrades do you offer for the L-Series? I know most of your engines are a far cry from their original form, but I'm sure there are some things those of us closer to stock might be interested in. I know I would love for someone to come up with a water pump impeller upgrade, perhaps something like the LD impeller, but easily swapped with the stamped steel units that seem to be everywhere these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 i never mod or change the water pump , they work just fine , the work i have done to the head fixes all cooling problems , all my parts are for the race guys out there and are just not needed for the stock style engines out there . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Peter, I am intrigued by the one finger spin of the crank. What are the steps to getting it to that level. I wouldn't even want to guess the amount of "free" horsepower one picks up if the crank spins with such ease. Any longterm issues with oil pressure on something like that? What is the theory behind that glyptol (spelling) engine paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Each of the answers to both questions are in threads dealing with them, specifically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 And what kind of money does a person spend on a 3.4 Race motor?Are these $20k USD? $10k? I have no concept of what this type of perfection would cost.. What HP and RPM would you be pleased to see? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 The 3.3 makes 300ftlb @5100 and makes 360hp engine @7600 with 50mm webers , engine takes about 70 hours to build , we have a race version with billet crank and A beem rods and light valves and injection this revs to 9000 , costs a shed lode more lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZGhost623 Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Do you have a "kit" price on this for us DIY'ers? I dont think anything like this is available in US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 Yes we have a kit , comes with 89mm stroke crank , H beem rods , custom forged pistons , and a custom flywheel . Also has bearings , price is $6500 , aus dollers. We like to use the P90 head , but we can make the piston sute any head , we just need the CCs of the head and need to know cam spec for valve pockets , As far as i know we are the only 3.35 kit out there . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Not the only kit, there are a few builders in the US who are up to the job if you have the cash. One gentleman had a shortblock up to 3.6L but the engine never was finished and never ran, as far as I have found. Most folks in the US find that after about 250HP, the dollars-per-horsepower for the L28 really go down fast...so engines like this aren't common here. Rebello can and does make engines in this ballpark; look to some of the Bonneville racers if you don't believe it (I know Peter doesn't!) The Great White Dyno never lies... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 We have a 3.6 kit as well i have built 2 now , but we make the block taller so we can run a longer rod , COST lots only for the hard core Z man that loves the L motor ,. As for the cost off my motors there dear , there not for every one , i dont care, there built to a very high standard and they go like they should , I have more work than i can do , this year im booked out already so im not trying to sell any parts or engines . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go? All booked out... But I conspire to arrive in Melbourne this year with spare time intent on seeing the shop of you and Dave Ulbrick! The two things worth doing on a trip to Oz.... Outside of Sydney, that is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 I'm waiting for someone else to notice: "but we make the block taller so we can run a longer rod" And then ask about it. LOL Shall I venture a guess it's similar to the HKS RB2.8? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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