PMC raceengines Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 We run a 10mm plate on the top of the block and run the ring pack down the piston , there is just no more room 3.6 is as far as they go . hope you can get to the shop Tony will be nice to cach up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Yeah, I know.... hehehehe I posted a photo of that. Some sink liners through the spacer for 'permanent conversion'... Then no funky ring-stack. I'm lounging in Bangkok right now, I should order my massage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Yes like the OS 3L rb 26 but you can never get the bore out to 89 like that , 86 no prob , but then the 2 valve head dont work , need that big bore for air flow around the inlet , i did a FJ 20 like that out to 2.5 worked ok but it was very hard to keep together under big boost The 3.6 is just a torque monster and was built just to be difrent, cost was not part of the build , the bloke that has it wanted somthing no one else has , its just like art you pay for it because you like it or just want it , it dont have to make sence , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Yep! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Why not liner an LD28 block and skip the top plate? That's 19mm more deck, no plate to worry on sealing, and wet liners get used plenty often enough that I certainly wouldn't sniff at them. True, they will eventually leak...but that's the cost of a 89mmx90mm LD28... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 The problem with the LD block is its bore is only 84mm so when you bore it it goes to water at 87mm you need to go to 91 to run a normal liners thats 89mm bore , so its not a easy job , i have tryed , when we first tryed the big strokers , also the head bolts are 12mm , so you need to drill out the head , its not that easy if it was everyone would be doing it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Shall I venture a guess it's similar to the HKS RB2.8? You mean the OS Giken 3+L kits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 (edited) Some pics of a stroker L 4, thats done the same way Tony, this one is a 2.3 twin cam Edited February 2, 2013 by PMC raceengines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 We call that an "L20B" here in the states! LOL (Or was that Z24? Did you guys get the LZ series down there?) Take the truck LZ24, Use the L-Head, muahahahha! 2.4 four cylinder... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 HAHA LZ is a works twin cam . the z block and head came in 18 20 22 24 hear , we build the z24 up to 2.6 with a billet crank and run the KA head on it , makes big power and torque , we make it belt drive like a bda ford looks great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 This is a LZ head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Yeah, no gear drives here in the US... I've been out of the L4 stuff for a while... KA's were new the last time I messed with a Z24 Hybrid. I've heard the KA Swap... But then again if I could get a BDA Ford... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 I do 3 times as many L 4 engines now most for 1600 road race cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 KA head should bolt onto the L block whether it be L16-20b. Have to block off a water or oil port on the head in the back because it matches up with a water/oil on the block. Then there was something you had to do with the front cover, like run a Z20 front cover or something. Not sure how the block height difference with an L20b changes that. Same thing for the timing chain. KA runs a single row chain to the head and I'm not sure what length it needs to be on an L block.Only saying that because I'm seriously wanting to put a stock KA head on my truck with my DCOE's that I have laying around, for some added power compared to my stock L20b... I think a twin cam 4 cylinder with DCOE's looks so slick! Screamin' 1600 like a Cortina or the Alfa's are pretty sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 You realy need a 89mm bore as the valves are so close to bore , also you realy need some cams the stock NA KA cams are just to small to work well , You need a crank gear , and a sr20 chain , we make the crank gear there hard to come buy , you need to weld the top of the timing cover to line up to the KA cover , its not very hard if you have some skills ,then all you need to do is block the oil drain on the back of the head , and your away , also build a set of pistons to get the comp where it need to be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Haha I forgot about the valve clearance to the bore! That would make sense I suppose with an 85mm bore. I can't even remember what I used in my motor, if they were small dish L18 pistons or the deep dish L20B pistons. That was the second problem I was thinking about, compression ratio. I read that the 3 valve single cam KA heads (KA24E) had big chambers around 60-65cc and the twin cam 4 valve heads (KA24DE) had 45-ish cc chambers which is right around what my L4 head is now.Mind you, it's my daily driver and I never use high RPM, a stump puller... literally. Which is why if it sounds like I'm being lazy and trying to get by with the bare minimum, it's because I am, so I'm not car-less for a long time rebuilding a motor with only 15000 on it.Anyway, I don't want to hijack. These aren't the droids you're looking for, he can go about his business, move along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 I have often though about doing the LD block with wet liners and now grabbing a mercedes M103, 104 or OM606 crank, but alas, I have too many projects on my docket right now. As far as the whole L-KA conversion sprocket, there is a toyota crankshaft gear with an 18 tooth count that just needs to be bored a few thousandths to fit over an L series crank snout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 126hp per L over 2hp per cube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 You are really doing some great stuff down there. Thanks for sharing and participating in these forums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Does water actually rotate the opposite direction in the southern hemisphere? Does that have an effect on engines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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