winstonusmc Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 (edited) Swapped the engine out on my 240z a couple weeks ago and have been setting up the MS3 for it. In my previous setup, I ran Spark only in this car to kinda get the bugs worked out, as switching back and forth wasnt too difficult. Once the other engine was in, I added the wiring for the injectors and other required sensors. Now for the specs: F54 Block/P90 headMS3/3xFord Mustang COP running 2.0ms dwellNissan 6 channel igniter82 L28ET distributer running the DIY trigger wheelZietronix type MAP sensor (50psi) 420A Chrysler IAT sensor (1/4 NPT) RB26 TPS (its what I had) RB26 444cc injectors w/ RB26 resistor Stock CHTS (temp sensor) External Walbro 255HP MSD tach adapter P/N 8920 Future Expansion (wired up already): Idle valve Boost control MAF Right now I dont have a wideband, but it should be coming. It idles well, I tuned the fuel to get a smooth idle. I need a better strategy for idle control as the intake I have doesnt have any sort of PWM type valve. I will look into other valves in the future. I will post up the MSQ when it evloves a little more. now for pics: Edited May 13, 2013 by winstonusmc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95i4 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 What are you using to control idle now? About to pull the trigger on a MS3 setup for my car, currently only idle control I have is the throttle-stop screw on the 240sx throttlebody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 A simple screw valve from the N/A intake. You can see it plumbed in the last picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95i4 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Are you running full sequential? Interested in your ignition setup as well, do you have a wiring diagram on how the nissan ignitor was wired up? Looks like it idles really well from the vid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 I am running full sequential. The coils and igniter are wired up exactly like Nissan intended it. I posted the wiring diagram in the other thread. I had a hard time finding the Ford diagram though. One day I will draw up the diagram for my setup. Maybe I will just modify an RB26 diagram. The idle is good once it gets to operating temps. I am going to rumage threw the junkyard to try to find an idle valve, or just modify the RB one I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan95i4 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Thanks! i'll check out the other thread for the diagram. Keep us updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Finally got a wideband yesterday. I wasnt too far off on the fuel map. I earballed it at 55% requiered fuel, which was 13/1 AFR. So now its more like 50% on the idle are of the VE map. I cruised it around last night with the wastegate unhooked to get a good N/A tune and it did pretty good. Until my fan ate my radiator, not really sure how, but it sat really close. Its a 3 core with the stock 280ZX fan. It was almost touching it. Must have been a hard brake on the rubber mounts.The fuel map is still very rough right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 took it out last night for about an hour to work on the fuel map. It doesnt seem to want to rev past 4000. It almost feels like a fuel cut, but the AFRs ar decent when it happens. This is the same ignition setup I had on my L26 and it revved all the way to redline. I think there might be a noise issue though. I didnt get much time to mess with it after I came home. Here is the tune and log file: 2013-02-25_21.34.24.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Check trigger noise filtering and make sure it's not too aggressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 There is no noise filtering enabled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam280Z Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Your log shows your max throttle opening at 38.8%. Have you calibrated the TPS? If so, your not opening the throttle all the way. You don't show any sync loss, so it's not noise. I didn't look at your msq, but you should verify the dwell settings for the coils. Too little dwell can do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 Figured out my problem. After troubleshooting for a while, I discovered my injector voltage was falling off linearly off idle. Not really sure why yet, but I ran a wire directly from the battery to the injector resistor for now. VE analyze live immediately started removing fuel over the entire map. Now the numbers somewhat look normal. I am going to adjust the base pulse width to get the 100% load to 100% base pulse width for now so I can see any gains with mods. I will post up the tune when it gets better. I only had a half an hour to check it out today after I fixed the injector power issue. Now I can tune all the way now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 Finally had some time to troubleshoot the power problem. I ran a wire directly to the injector resistor and it ran better but had a strange shutdown problem at high load. When I decided to run a wire to the harness side of the resistor, I noticed that the power wire was wired into the wron pin on the plug. So essentially 1 injector was getting the 6 ohms and the other 5 were getting 12. I fixed the wiring and the fueling immediately change. Now, at 7 ms base pulswidth, it doesnt get over 100% fueling at full boost. I am generally pleased with the tune so far, and it will boost all the way out without issue now. It pushes 7psi till redline. The tune is really only tuned for full throttle right now above 4000rpm. I tried to pull the wastegate arm to tune it N/A, but it wants to boost, even though the wastegate is propped open. So here is my MSQ and datalog of the wierd shutdown poblem I am still having. hell yeah 4.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 I'm running the same injectors. Why are running resistors they are low impedance just run pwm. Also what is your injector opening time set at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 I use the resistor because its running full sequencial from the MS3X. I want to put together a driver circuit to better run the peek and hold injectors, but the resistor seems to be fine for now. I use the Nissan recommended .77 ms dead time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 (edited) I read some things online and turned on the noise filtering on the Megasquirt and got it to not cut out. I guess the wiring is a little more noisey than the Skyline was in Oki. Now the computer is tucked up under the dash where it will be perminently. I also installed an MSD tach adapter to get my tach working. The stock tach is off a little, it will read 6500 at 6000rpm. I had to wire the power to the tach from my internal ECU power or it would keep the car running after the key was turned off, that was a suprise when I took it to the store, haha. The tune seems to be coming along, the fuel map seems to be working its way out. Its starting to looking like like all the other MS L28ET maps I have seen on the net. One thing I really really need is an intercooler. Blasting down the 15 freeway today at 100mph, boosting 8psi, check out my Air Intake Temps, 213*F, haha. It also doesnt help that the turbo has no intake pipe on it and its sucking in heated air from the exhaust mani. The injectors are at 50% duty at full boost/rpm right now, so I estimate with an intercooler I would be at 200hp at this boost level (8psi). It also has a strange hump in the fuel map at 5000rpm/ 100% load. I also thing the stock fuel pump wire is too small, it gets a little warm. hell yeah 9.zip Edited May 13, 2013 by winstonusmc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 So the car run decent and I have been daily driving it recently. It does have a hesitation problem every once in a while that I am trying to track down. I noticed my trigger angle is wrong according to the DIY website, mine is 237 vs the recommended 355 or so. I figure when the guy before me put the engine together, he put the oil pump drive 3 teeth off, 24 teeth -> 18* cam -> 36* crank x 3 -> 108* off. I read that if this is wrong it can affect the timing accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Great you have a nice driver... Daily Driver that is. Is this your first endeavor into megasquirt or have youhad it on other cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 (edited) The trigger angle is just a suggestion. Let the engine warm up, then set fixed timing and adjust the trigger angle to match what you see with the timing gun and the fixed timing. Edited June 1, 2013 by loy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 (edited) The timing is spot on now, its the error that is caused by the missing tooth being too close to the ignition events. Causes errors from what Matt Cramer has said in this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102891-whod-be-interested-if-we-made-a-l28et-trigger-wheel/page-8 The way the MegaSquirt wheel decoder works, that actually would not be as good. Having the #1 tooth at TDC would mean the missing tooth is in the 30 degrees BTDC area, which is close to the spark advance the engine will often be running. Having a real tooth shortly before the spark advance insures maximum accuracy. So by putting the missing tooth right after the 30 degree tooth (and in many installations, right after TDC) puts the missing tooth in a spot where it won't diminish accuracy where you need it. I'll admit the missing tooth location was somewhat of an accident - but it turns out to work really well. Edited June 1, 2013 by winstonusmc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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