ferrariowner123 Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 (edited) So a few months ago (august 2012 ish), my Dad bought a 1977 280Z, we really like it and has been fairly good so far, but recently things have been heading a little south.First, we started noticing that after driving it, the passenger side of the front window would fog up, my Dad and I never thought much of it, I had just assumed it was something old cars did. But upon further inspection after a tip off from one of my friends, I found that the carpet on the passenger side was SOAKED in coolant. Yes, I know, how we didn't notice is completely beyond my understanding. But, I got to work.I pulled off the center console, labeled everything for later, and plastic bagged all the hardware. Re-did some of the HORRIBLE wiring for the stereo the previous owner did, and pulled the blower unit, fairly easy to get access (other than having to stand on my head).But i'm starting to get get fairly fed up with this issue. I have replaced the two lower coolant hoses with better condition ones purchased from the junkyard, after getting it all together, it still leaked, this time I actually looked to see where it was leaking from, turns out it was the upper hose, so went to NAPA picked up the PERFECT heater line, cut it to length, and slapped her on (obvious this took about 3 hours to swearing and complaining to do all that). Also got rid of all the stupid Nissan ring tie things, and replaced them with new jubilee clips. So again, got her all back together, filled her back up with water, (cleaning the block out of really brown coolant) and for a little while, I thought I fixed her, got her up to temperature, it started smoking a little bit from the under the dash, I ignored it, and continued to warm her up (should I be worried? ) and what do you know, after getting her all warmed up, I turned the HVAC temperature gauge on the center console from hot to cold, starts GUSHING hot water on to the floor, from the top of the plumping that controls the temperature inside the car.We have a rally coming, this Saturday actually, and we would really like to have heat (not a huge deal if we cant, but having it is preferred), but my question is, can I replace this assembly from Nissan? or can I replace the seal that has inevitably failed over time, or that I caused it to fail, during my swearing escapade. And if I cant get parts within my deadline, is there any issue to me putting bolts that fit into the coolant lines that feed the interior, making sure they don't leak of course, just as a temporary setup so it doesn't leak?My second issue, is we have had some kind of charging problem. Every time you start it, the "CHG" light comes on from the volts gauge, so I pulled the alternator, had it tested, failed, bought a re manufactured one from o'reilly's, (not ideal, but it will do the job). Surprise, surprise, it didn't fix it.I can rev it under no load, up to 5K ish and the light will turn off briefly, but come back on. Any ideas? The Volts read about 12ish volts. The car hasn't left me stranded, but its only started happening the last few times I've gone to drive it, within the last month, it is starting to sound a little different when I do go to start it, like its a little harder than it use to be, it has what looks to be a fairly new battery, but I have yet to check the actually health of the battery. One thing also worth mentioning, I think right around the same time the "brake" light stays on after lowering the e-brake, but eventually turns off after a little while of driving, weirdest thing. Just thought i'd mentioned it. The car just recently got all new suspension, Eibach Pro-kit progressive rate springs, and KYB shocks, and we also flushed new brake fluid while we had to bleed the car anyway.So any and all help well be greatly appreciated, ill be checking back regularly for any questions you guys have.Thank you for making it to the end of my massive post, hope there is someone who can help.Thanks-Kyle UPDATE: It was the regulator for the electrical issue, in case anyone cursing through had the same problem Edited May 7, 2013 by ferrariowner123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 To your first question , you can use a connector ( splice ) to join 2 heater hoses together ( bypassing the heater core ) . Where did you check for bat. voltage ? Need to check at the bat. and the alternator . Needs to be around 13-14.5 v. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monster626 Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Check the alternators output on the rear post to make sure it is providing power.....if its working correctly and the gauge reads 12v you should read over 14v at the alternator as it trying maintain 13.7 in most systems. If you do see the alternator is working then you have to much resistance in the wire going to the battery. Most likely from corrosion. Replacing it with the correct gauge wire should correct the charging issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 Okay, I'll bypass the core. Just get a brass double flared tube like 3" long? I haven't checked anything for voltage, I'll do that later today or tomorrow and post up what I get. I do like that idea of it being corroded cables, some nice gauge audio wire Will work, right? This thing has such a ghetto wiring job for the stereo that I hate. So hopefully this will give me a reason to rip it all out. Thanks for the help guys -Kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 And if I cant get parts within my deadline, is there any issue to me putting bolts that fit into the coolant lines that feed the interior, making sure they don't leak of course, just as a temporary setup so it doesn't leak? My second issue, is we have had some kind of charging problem. Every time you start it, the "CHG" light comes on from the volts gauge, so I pulled the alternator, had it tested, failed, bought a re manufactured one from o'reilly's, (not ideal, but it will do the job). Surprise, surprise, it didn't fix it. Blocking the lines with bolts won't hurt anything. The hole in the back of the head is only used as a source of hot coolant for the heater core. If you block the lines the coolant will coolant wil just follow other paths through the head. 1977 uses an external voltage regulator. That might be the source of your voltage (charge light) problem, not the alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Yeah I ordered a new regulator last night and should be here by Wednesday, so I'm praying that's the problem. I'll report back and let you guys know. -Kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rome03 Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Hey guys, The same thing happened to me last night. I slammed the gas on first shifted to second just for a quick run. Suddenly I heard a popping sound followed by a hiss and the coolant leaked into the passenger side from under the glove box. I made it home, looked under there and saw two hoses that come in from the fire wall. One of the hoses was leaking. Can I replace both of them with regular hose from napa? Does it have to be a special hose? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GroveZ Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 I used standard heater hose from the block to the heater core. no problems unless your a purist, then you can order preformed hose from many z parts supliers. I forget where i saw them but i know it was more than one seller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowpoke Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Ferrari, You said your coolant was brownish? Might be a good idea to have your radiator and heater core boiled and rodded out. I blew a few engines on an unknown condition radiator. After boiling my car ran way cooler, and its worth the piece of mind while your in there. If you bypass the heater core, block the inlet from the back of the head with a bolt, and replace the T with a straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timecode Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 I had a small coolant leak in the same place. Then one day the battery wasn't charging. Found out the leaking coolant corroded the power wire, under the dash, that goes from the alt to the gauge then to the battery. My alternators output is 16v but my voltage gauge reads 14.2 now. I just ran a new 10 awg wire with a fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.