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ryan95i4

Haltech Platinum Sprint 5000

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Anyone using the Haltech Platinum Sprint 500?  Seems to be their budget offering and can be had w/ a lead harness for under $1k.  A quick search didnt find anything, but see lots of people using older Haltech ECUs with success.

 

Right now Im debating b/t the MS3 or the PS500. MS3 obviously has more extra's, but the reliability and robustness of Haltech has me wondering if I need those extra options.  I see lots of noise and sync issues on MS, but it doesnt seem to be nearly as prevalent with Haltechs.

 

Anyone have any first hand experience with PS500? Positive or negative reviews when used with the L28ET?

Edited by ryan95i4

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I use a sport 2k, its been flawless. The thing I see issues with in the MS system is the fine tuning. Getting a car to run is easy, but getting one to run like factory is where all the money is spent. That being said, the S500 is not a good fit, its a lot of work on a Z and not much different from the stock ecu. Id save the money and get the 2k. What are you wanting your engine management to do? 

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Im not following, how is the PS500 anything like the stock jetronic setup?

 

From what ive gathered on the haltech forums, the PS500 just does away with the extra frills of the ps1000/2000 ecu's in order to keep the price in check.  It would be limited to semi-sequential injection on a 6 cyl, but can be used with a distributor or multi coil igntion system (im running stock dizzy now, but may switch to LS coils down the road).  It, like the 1000/2000 systems can also use the Nissan optical crank sensor.  The work involved in an install shouldnt be any more or less than any other universal EMS i wouldnt think. Saw one example of a shop doing a ps500 install in a 280zx in a couple hours (and fwiw, the car came in the shop making 180whp and left making ~340whp before running out of injector).

 

My major concern for switching EMS is consistency.  Im tired of the stock ecu being great one day, then lean the next; trouble with hot starts; all the issues that come with the 30yr old EFI on a modified car.  Being able to tune the car is priority number 2.  I want to be able to come to the car, turn it on, and have it run the same way it did the day before every time.

 

Anti-lag, launch control, etc are all great, but I dont need a lot of those features, the car isnt tracked.  I was a heavy lean towards MS3 before i realized Haltech offered a budget friendly option, so budget is a concern as well.

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Went ahead and pulled the trigger on the PS500, should be here Monday.  Then its just figuring out when to do the install. :)

Very interested in how this works out. I am in the market for a ECM myself.

Megasquirt is cool but not so cheap anymore and the case / db37 printer cable connector still looks like it is some pieced together high school science project.

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I went down the MS kit road, never put the kit together and sold it before getting to involved with it, reason why I did not use the MS because it does not give enough map points for getting a good tune/map for my setup so the Haltech PS1000 was my choice of ecu and was so glad I did not pour to much time and resources into the MS.

I was very close to getting the Haltech sprint 500 as it is a very good alternative to the MS.

I would reckomen going down the Haltech road over the MS.

 

SuperDan I like your commen "is some pieced together high school science project" - I think you may of already made up your mind go the Haltech you won't look back

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I went down the MS kit road, never put the kit together and sold it before getting to involved with it, reason why I did not use the MS because it does not give enough map points for getting a good tune/map for my setup so the Haltech PS1000 was my choice of ecu and was so glad I did not pour to much time and resources into the MS.

I was very close to getting the Haltech sprint 500 as it is a very good alternative to the MS.

I would reckomen going down the Haltech road over the MS.

 

SuperDan I like your commen "is some pieced together high school science project" - I think you may of already made up your mind go the Haltech you won't look back

 

OZZ240,  did you use the stock CAS? The only bit of wiring Im not positive about is how to wire up the trigger and home wire bundles.  Each bundle has 4 wires, so a total of 8 (Trigger 12v SW, GRND, Trigger -, Trigger +)(Home 12v SW, GRND, Home -, Home +) , but the stock CAS just has 4.

 

I've already picked up a Z31 chopper wheel, I'm just not sure how to wire up the CAS.

 

Any insight?

 

Thanks,

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My 240Z is nearly finished a engine transplant and now has a VG30ET sitting where the L24 was.

 

I’m using a completely well nearly stock Z31 distributor.

My modifications to the distributor was removing the cap and rotor, I've made a blanking cap to replace the cap as I was using a ignition module and coil pack but found they did not work too good together and just about to start upgrading to individual LS1 coil packs once they arrive in the mail fingers crossed they get delivered today. 

 

Had a friend wire up the Haltech for me as he has done a few Haltech conversions, when I get home will check wiring out to see how he has wired up the distributor

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Just had a look at the wiring diagram and quick start guide for the PS500. 

Only use one set of the wire groups either the

“Trigger Input†4 core (GY)

or

“Home Input†4 core (GY/B)

it all depends what type of distributor you are using.

Do a goggle search of images for both a Z31 distributor and a 280ZX distributor and you will see the difference between the two types of distributor optical and reluctor

 

 

Z31 distributor uses "Trigger Input" 4 core (GY)

I’m using the complete Z31 distributor so my car has been set up using the "Trigger Input" wires only as it uses a optical sensor/hall effect sensor

the guide for the hall effect sensor uses the following wires from the Haltech wiring loom 

Red +12V switched: Connected

 

Yellow trigger (+): Connected

 

Green trigger (-): Not Connected

 

Blue ground: Connected

Note Green wire must be insulated to avoid shorting

 

 

 

 

280ZX NA distributor uses "Home Input" 4 core (GY/B)

If you are using a stock 280ZX distributor from a NA car they use a Reluctor sensor so you would have to use the "Home Input" wiring

the guide for the reluctor sensor uses the following wires from the Haltech wiring loom

Red +12V swiched: Not Connected

 

Yellow signal (+): Connected

 

Green signal (-): Connected

 

Blue ground: Not connected

Note Red & Blue wire must be insulated to avoid shorting

 

 

If you are using a 280ZX Turbo distributor it is an optical sensor/hall effect sensor so you would use the "Trigger Input" wiring 

 

hope this helps

 

Edited by OZZ240

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Just checked wire colours from the Z31distributor to the Haltech wiring harness

First colour = Z31, second colour = Haltech wiring harness

White to Green

Green to Yellow

Black to Blue

Red to Red

 

That's how mine has been wired

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Some more info, in case anyone else ever needs it.  Asked Haltech Support about how to wire in the CAS, and this is how they explained it:

 

 

Hello Ryan,

 

Thanks for using Haltech Engine Management on your L28 swapped 240Z. I’ll do what I can to help you sort out the trigger wiring, as that’s easily the most important, and sometimes the most confusing part of the installation.

 

First, lets sort out which type of optical trigger you have. I believe there were three types of Nissan optical sensors, with the difference being the number of unique windows on the inner track (hopefully this makes sense) Here’s some information from the ECU Manager software’s F1 help files:

 

Nissan triggers are optical triggers with a wheel with two tracks. One with large slots and another with 360 small slots.

Nissan 1st generation triggers have one unique slot and all remaining slots are the same size. The typical slot patterns for home window teeth are 2,2,2,8 for FJ20 engines or 2,2,2,2,2,8 for RB30 engines.

Nissan 2nd Generation triggers come with 2 unique windows. A typical pattern is 4,8,12,8 that can be found on most CA18 engines. Early RB series engines use this pattern also with six windows.

Type 3 Nissan triggers come with all unique window sizes. A typical pattern is 4,8,12,16 and is commonly found on SR20 and late RB series engines.

Can you check and confirm which type of optical wheel your 83 engine uses  ?

 

Secondly, with regards to the actual wiring, the sensor connections will be

 

+12v

Ground

Trigger +   (360 slots)

Home + (6 Slots)

 

The Wiring on the Sprint ECU harness (and other Haltech universal harnesses) is configured for engines with separate Crank and Cam sensors, therefore the Trigger (Crank) sensor wires are in one of the 4 core cables, and the Home (Cam) sensor wires are in the other 4 core cable.   The 4 wires in each 4 core cable are as follows:

 

Red = +12v

Blue = Ground

Yellow = Trigger+ / Home+

Green = Trigger - / Home -

 

The Green Trigger- / Home- wires are used ONLY for magnetic reluctor style sensors and would not be used for Optical or Hall effect sensors. **

 

Therefore your sensor connection will need one +12v from one of the two red wires, Ground from one of the two blue wires, and the yellow Trigger + wire and the other yellow Home + wire.   

 

**On applications with a single CAS (Crank/Cam Angle sensor) with both Trigger and Home signals present, such as the Nissan Optical CAS, some installers (including myself) choose to simplify and cleanup the wiring by swapping the Green Trigger- wire from the Trigger- position on the ECU, to the Home+ position on the ECU.  After that pin swap, the 4 core ‘Trigger’ cable now contains +12v, Ground, Trigger+ and Home+, exactly the wires needed for the CAS. The ‘Home’ 4 core cable can then be removed from the harness.

 

 

 

 

Thanks,
Eric Gash

Manager: Haltech USA

 

So only using 4 wires total, but using 1 wire from the home bundle.

 

 

Thanks to Ian for getting me on the right track and for the other info!  G'Luck with your build!

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How about an update Ryan? Looking to go the same route.

 

 

No news is good news :)

 

Car runs great, switching to Haltech was the best thing I've done with the car.  Havent had the car on a dyno to tune, but had a decent street tune in.  Cold starts are dead on - just made a post the other day on IG where I started the car for the first time in ~6 weeks, and it turned over first crank, no throttle input needed. Since this post I added idle control and electronic boost control with the PS500 as well (500 limited to open loop idle and boost control, but works great nonetheless). I also have fans controlled through the EMS and I setup the 2-step rev limiter.

 

My goal was to have a system I didnt have to fuss with beyond initial tuning. I haven't had a laptop in the car in probably 8-9 months and I would drive the car anywhere.

 

I would still like to get the car on a dyno and fine tune, but the car drives better than it ever has before as it sits. Haltech is about to release the new elite series of ECUs, which look amazing, but 500 is still the ultimate bang-for-the-buck IMO.

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Thanks for the feedback, your update is encouraging. I know there is plenty of untapped power in my set-up and I want to do this stand alone upgrade once, get a decent Dyno tune and walk away. Just need to decide on whether or not to spend the extra $700 or so on the 1000.

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Thanks for the feedback, your update is encouraging. I know there is plenty of untapped power in my set-up and I want to do this stand alone upgrade once, get a decent Dyno tune and walk away. Just need to decide on whether or not to spend the extra $700 or so on the 1000.

 

You can do idle and boost control with open-loop with the 500, but closed loop idle and boost control would be nice. The built in turbo-timer function on the 1000 is nice as well.  The 1000 and 2000 offer a lot of other options that I possibly would or would not take advantage of if I had them, but its up to you if thats worth almost doubling the cost. 

 

Can't go wrong with any of the Haltech options though.

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Hello there

 

Thank you for all great information

 

I like to run haltech in my L28

I will used Ls2 coil and Denso 720cc fuel injection

 

Any good map to run my car with ?

 

Thank you

 

 

I tried finding maps, but with every car being so different, you probably wont have luck finding a match. You really are better off building your own.  Follow Haltech's advise -- start with very conservative timing and get your base fuel map squared away first.

 

Since the MS forum is much more active, I actually looked at some of the maps those guys were using when looking for a starting point.

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PECX:  LS-1 and all LS coils have built in ignition drivers. No additional module or ignition box is required. Coils  are triggered directly from ECU via 5v trigger wire.

 

LS-X coils are direct fire coils, which means you would run 1 coil per cylinder.

 

My 76 280Z will be getting Haltech this winter. I picked up a used E-11. Still gathering parts. Have to locate Z31 chopper wheel.

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Note: A lot of people call the all of the GM coils by the Generic name of " LS-1 ". But be aware that there are numerous versions of the " LS-x " series's coil. LS-1, LS2, LS-2 Truck/Yukon LS-3 and LS-7 coils etc. 

 

True LS-1 coils are the lowest output of the bunch, while LS-2 Truck/Yukon coils ( with Heatsink )  are the strongest. More important is that early LS-1 coils have a different wiring hookup than later coils. They use the same terminal as later coils ( LS-2, LS-3,LS-7 etc ) but the wiring order is different on the early LS-1 coils.  Mega Squirt has wiring diagrams for both types of coils.

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