steve91tt Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 I have mine plumbed directly into the oil system through a ball valve. The system charges to capacity at the maximum oil pressure (60psi?) while driving down the straight. In the braking zone, if the oil pressure from the pump drops, it dumps oil into the engine at the maximum oil pressure and tapering off to the empty system pressure. I have never liked the idea of putting an active control system between the Accusump and the block. To me, this just adds failure modes in a critical system. I have my alarm set at 20psi and I have never had it sound while on track with it plumbed this way. Without the Accusump I get regular alarms in hard braking zones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted June 26, 2013 Author Share Posted June 26, 2013 So which is the "Inny" and which is the "Outy" on the oil? I have that aluminum plate with 2 AN lines to a cooler with the filter mounted to the plate. Guess I just need to pull a line and turn the motor and see which spooges oil (supply) and the other is return. Looks like I want to T-in after the cooler and filter. No racing till October... Sad RacR. Sad annoying racer with too much time on his hands... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted June 26, 2013 Author Share Posted June 26, 2013 Crank Scrapers.... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Scrapers help as well, depending on how high you're twisting it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Gets me wondering; I've seen Tony Knight's oil pans for the L-series incorporate rod end scrapers into the oil pan rail, is this commonly done? It doesn't look like a full scraper, but rather just catches what is coming off the end of the connecting rods as they come around. I am fixing to make a nice, thick-rail oil pan out of an old college project. (10mm thick oil pan rails...used to be a crank girdle for the L28) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Scraping helps keep more oil in the pan, reduces foaming and aeration, and supposedly frees up some horsepower. I have no direct experience with the last item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 For less than $100 bucks I suppose it can't hurt too much: http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Datsun-Nissan_L%20SERIES.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Sam at LNA has dyno tested many NA L6 race combos. He said windage tray helps HP, crank scrapers do not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 I had a nice talk with "Bob" from Canton (Accusump) today. He spent about 20 minutes on the phone with me talking about the Accusump system, its dimensions and operation. They have the switch I was considering in an earlier thread such that the system is inactive until oil pressure is measured low and then the valve opens and contributes. This is for sure the way to run the system else the piston pressure will vary as the rpm moves around. We really want to keep the bottle at Max Pressure until oil pressure drops below some pre-set limit and then it can kick in. It is very refreshing to find GOOD tech support these days. A real technician with every day experience who doesn't mind discussing his product. TJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 Mounting Accusump day... this is a dedicated track car. I'm thinking of mounting in back bay by strut towers. Any reason not to? If it has nuisance leaks I will be pissed, but should be able to seal. Steel reinforced hose meets tech and I just don't imagine too much pressure loss on a 15' section of 3/4" hose. I can't stuff it under the cowl without more cutting. I have a passenger seat... Under dash hard to service. How am I doing so far? I wish I had the balls to mount it on top of the roof "Ghostbusters" style.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Don't worry about leaks. They don't. Probably more depends on where you mount your valve. The tank will need to "fill" the line from valve to engine once it opens. Else it won't be much help on start up. And that's a long length of 3/4 hose, so more oil in the total system. Mine is mounted in floor just in front of passenger seat with manual valve. In operation it gets hot, so I wrapped with a little header tape. The passenger footwell is another option or under the cowl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 I'm doing the electric valve and 25psi engage switch (All pilfered from Mikellys cast-off parts). I don't care about startup, just starvation at power. Appreciate the input. Haven't drilled the holes just yet.. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 (edited) Passenger's footwell area. . . Dedicated track car can have a once in 1,000 hours use passenger move their feet a bit! "There is no best" but accumulators do tend to like the pistons oriented vertically with the outlet down... This absolutely puts any entrained air furthest from any injected outlet point, but with a dash in the car that can be difficult to attach (brackets of the front roll cage upright. ) No real reason to put it further in the rear of the car, tubing hassles/losses. Need your glovebox??? Edited August 11, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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