NewZed Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 McMaster Carr shouldn't be calling a silicone material "rubber". Could be the confusion point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 And praytel what exactly is silicone if not rubber. Silicone "RTV" anybody? "Room Temperature Vulcanization"? That is a rubber bonding/curing process. What is "SBR" (Synthetic Butyl Rubber)? Not coming from a Latex Producing tree doesn't mean it's not commercially classified as "Rubber"... "Silicone Rubber" is a common term. We aren't on the plantation in Malaya any longer... It's the 21st Century, you know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Just fighting degradation of the nomenclature. "Rubber" is so generic and describes so many different materials that the word alone is not really useful beyond giving the mental impression of a pencil eraser or a tire. Without a descriptor in front, like "silicone" it's just confusing, as in this thread. The word vulcanization in RTV is even worse, since the original process used sulfur and heat. It's like saying it's a sulfur and heat cured material but without the sulfur and without the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 (edited) And HENCE "RT" in the "V"! "Vulcanisation" is a patch process as well. Term used worldwide without sulfur, but with heat. I think the consensus is that Silicone Rubber is actually "Rubber" especially in the context of the link. Those RUBBER caps come in several TYPES of RUBBER: SILICONE is the high-temperature version, NEOPRENE or BUTYL RUBBER are lower-temperature versions. As a DESCRIPTIVE ADJECTIVE of the material used, it is completely appropriate, and I don't see how McMaster Carr is adding ANY 'confusion' if you open the link. I have used these plugs and have found the SILICONE rubber caps to be better than the other types, long term. Seriously, who is confused here except you on this issue? Cap it using a rubber cap, or use a threaded inlet and plug it with a threaded metal plug. This is intuitive. How is it confusing? Or have I attained self-levitating brain sac and this is just not an issue to me from my superior intelligence? No, I still have legs. Have not attained self-levitating brain sac status yet. Just dumb ole' compressor wrench here....not seeing the confusion on 'rubber' just on the difference between 'cap' and 'plug' being interchanged. Edited July 6, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Anyone who reads these last few posts will, in the future, if they see the word rubber, wonder "what kind of rubber? - there are many different rubber materials". So the objective of forums like this one are accomplished. Now let's talk about fiberglass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 GRP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Or have I attained self-levitating brain sac and this is just not an issue to me from my superior intelligence? Almost made me crack up at my desk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 (edited) Almost made me crack up at my desk... ...and here's Tony on a date: Edited July 13, 2013 by TimZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levi3011 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 You know I have been wondering this myself and I'm sorry I can't keep up and would be nice to just get STRAIGHT FACTS instead of arguing about topics irrelevant to the subject at hand. I myself deleted the heater and just "looped" it back but was wondering if I can use a pipe plug on the # 6cyl and plug everything else up.... Or since my motor is far from stock should I just keep it looped as well as the thermostat looped??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 (edited) You know I have been wondering this myself and I'm sorry I can't keep up and would be nice to just get STRAIGHT FACTS instead of arguing about topics irrelevant to the subject at hand. I myself deleted the heater and just "looped" it back but was wondering if I can use a pipe plug on the # 6cyl and plug everything else up.... Or since my motor is far from stock should I just keep it looped as well as the thermostat looped???STRAIGHT FACTS were in this thread - see post #18. Or do a search - it's only been covered about 1000 times. Also, the "topic at hand" was how to best go about plugging the system, so the irrelevant posts are the ones discussing whether to loop or not. Like this one. Edited August 11, 2013 by TimZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 (edited) Newbie indeed... "Reading is fundamental"! Not only was it covered, Whineosaurus, in another thread very specific temperatures, on an instrumented dyno test bed, were offered up as a reason not to "loop" it. We're not here to spoon the Honeycombs till your project is completed and all your questions are answered. Once we answer it a few times, we kinda expect some due diligence on your part to help yourself to. The knowledge base already put there by us, several times, in several ways, in several forums.... Apparently Groening is on a similar wavelength as I! I think back to the Brain-Sacs from 50's B-Movies on WKBD 50 in the 70's on Ghoulardi's show, actually... "Just Call Me Gor!" "Continue searching, or I will cleave your head with this levitated axe which just happened to be in your study..." Edited August 11, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris83zxt Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 You know I have been wondering this myself and I'm sorry I can't keep up and would be nice to just get STRAIGHT FACTS instead of arguing about topics irrelevant to the subject at hand. I myself deleted the heater and just "looped" it back but was wondering if I can use a pipe plug on the # 6cyl and plug everything else up.... Or since my motor is far from stock should I just keep it looped as well as the thermostat looped??? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/80533-poll-do-you-loop-the-coolant-or-plug-up-the-holes/page-2?hl=%20heater%20%20hose%20%20recirculation I found a few of the posts in that thread regarding this situation to be more matter-of-fact than what you can sometimes find elsewhere. I needed to shut off flow to the heater core because it was causing my A/C to blow hotter than necessary (bad heater control valve allowing constant bypass I'm guessing). If you go to Lowes or HD or similar and look in the PEX plumbing section you should be able to find a nice 3/4" barbed brass ball valve. These fit nicely inside the stock heater hose and I've had no issues with leaking once clamped down (and I currently have two of them installed). I initially installed one in between the #6 outlet and the heater core inlet (just fits) but then I discovered during the course of a long road trip that the car was getting gradually warmer and warmer until I had to open the shut-off. I have an 83' that has the pressure relief valve plumbed in parallel with the heater core, and it's probably stuck open causing contant recirc (constant recirc everywhere!). I then installed another shut-off on the return line somewhere above spark plug #3 or thereabouts. That one solved the heat creep I had experienced as it stopped the hot water recirculating right back into the motor. I think the best solution might be to block off the return line going to the water pump inlet and replumb it into some point past (forward of) the thermostat housing. This would allow additional water flow around the rear cylinders which might help to keep them from becoming hot spots. The downside would be that the car would take a little longer to reach operating temperature. I could be completely wrong about this though, and hope to be corrected in a most brutal fashion if so (before I do it to my car). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levi3011 Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 I am sorry for opening my mouth before searching the topic Tony D. I usually SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH before asking questions on any topic. I didn't know that the discussion had been THROUGHLY AND EXTENSIVELY REAEARCHED. I know now from reading the forums that its the best idea to block the ports. Thanks for everyone's input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 "I think the best solution might be to block off the return line going to the water pump inlet and replumb it into some point past (forward of) the thermostat housing." This would indeed lengthen warmups by bypassing the thermostat. JeffP made a 1" thick spacer block out of plate aluminum to let his rear cylinder circulation lines mount...basically 25mm longer bolts than you currently have in the thermostat, and an extra gasket (no need to go JeffP Fancy with the O-Ring sealing...) and you're set. You can place the thermostat in the stock position, and the block over it to return on the radiator side of the thermostat, and if you don't like the time it takes to warm up....or want experimentation....put the small groove in the top of the hole and put the thermostat on the top of the spacer block to allow the circulation under the thermostat (which is how JeffP ended up running his after dyno tests...) It's some RTV away and you can't go wrong with the setup. It even cleared his hood! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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