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Differences between euro ZX T and usdm?


spiff

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Hi, I recently aquired an L28ET with 5spd manual BW, driveshaft, differential with cv shafts, wiring loom, engine wiring loom and ecu(From an 83 ZX turbo). I plan on doing a swap in my 280Z which have the L28E and have been browsing through this forum, google, other forums, FSM's and wiring schemes... And here's the thing, all wiring schemes I have found of the L28ET shows me a setup including a lambda sensor, which I don't have(not even a hole for it in the DP), and the ECU is plugged in via three connectors. On my turbo wiring harness there is only ONE big connector, same as on the L28E I have. Also I have seen some mentions of a dropping resistor, I can't find this on my turbo harness.

I also have an oil cooler which I have read only comes on the automatic versions, but I have a manual as I said...

So is this just normal differences between different markets?

Anyone have or know of a service manual or wiring schemes that fits my turbo engine?

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You got a European delivery model, which used EFI and not ECCS. It incorporates a simple idle bypass for idle setup, no CAS (pneumatic advance/retard E12-80 Distributor) no EGR, no Catalyst (therefore no need for O2 Feedback), no AAR, and a basic 'dumb box' with open loop programming. ALL European model ZXT's came with  an Oil Cooler for both the Engine AND the Differential (3.36 R200) It is SIGNIFICANTLY easier to swap this into another vehicle. The Exhaust Manifold is segmented into 3 pieces with a hotside 0.82 A/R as opposed to the USA of 0.63 A/R. JeffP has some photos of the manifold on his "Extreme 280ZXT" webpage on Anglefire under 'exhaust manifold'...

 

It was rated at 200BHP opposed to 180BHP for the US Models with ECCS.

 

You have identified the major differences endemic to the Euro Market. Frank in Holland (Frank280ZX) might be able to help with the wiring diagrams, but who knows, it may be in German! LOL

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So this should be easier then? 

I haven't studied my current wring harness that much, but I have looked at the turbo harness and from the ecu there is only a  small plug, I'm guessing it connects to the ignition harness and hopefully that's the only connection I need to make the engine run?

 

What is AAR?

 

You say the zx-t diff is 3.36, I thought they where 3.5? Not sure what I have in my car now, I thought it was 3.9 but some sources say all 280z's came with a 3.5, I don't know, haven't checked.... I plan on opening up the zx-t diff and check it out, and also try to install a vlsd unit so I can just swap it out with the one in my car when the time comes, avoiding any serious down time :)

 

If the manuals are in german so be it, that's what we have google translate for :P Plus I need to refresh my german skills ;)

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USDM is like "Military Intelligence"

 

There, by definition, can never be a "USDM" anything on an S130.

 

There can be "JDM"

There can be "Euro Market"

There can be "North American Market"

There can be "North American Market, US Specification/Canadian Specification"

 

But since the car was not MADE IN THE USA then by definition the US Market is not, can not, and never was DOMESTIC for these vehicles!!!

 

Everybody outside the JDM has SOME version of an EXPORT SPECIFICATION.

 

It ain't "D" unless it originated in that country.

 

"US Market" YES

"US Domestic Market" impossibly NO!!!

 

Is CDM "Canadian" or "California" market spec?

Edited by Tony D
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  • 2 weeks later...

The EFI is unitised like the EFI cars in the USA.

Make SURE you properly identify which of the two large leads is power and which is ground (they are BOTH RED!)

 

After you determine that, ignition pickup is easily identified as its a plug-in near the harness and I think that covers the big stuff. How you actuate pathetic EFI pump is up to you, I've not a clue but close observation and deduction with common sense should get it going.

 

Worst case, you put in Fuel-Only Megasquirt!

 

If your harness is intact this swap isa pretty big no-brainier. I wish I had your setup when I converted the Corvair! It is jut like the N/A versions.

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The EFI is unitised like the EFI cars in the USA.

Make SURE you properly identify which of the two large leads is power and which is ground (they are BOTH RED!)

 

After you determine that, ignition pickup is easily identified as its a plug-in near the harness and I think that covers the big stuff. How you actuate pathetic EFI pump is up to you, I've not a clue but close observation and deduction with common sense should get it going.

 

Worst case, you put in Fuel-Only Megasquirt!

 

If your harness is intact this swap isa pretty big no-brainier. I wish I had your setup when I converted the Corvair! It is jut like the N/A versions.

 

So it's the same colors and pinout on my ecu and wiring as in the FSM diagram for the US ZX i have?

I also got the body harness from the turbo zx, so I have the efi and fuel pump relays I think, I just need to find them...

Also, in the same harness as the ecu plug, there is a another big connector, 6 Pin female connector with some reds, red/yellow and black. This is the plug wich supplies power and ground to the ecu?

I can't find any male connector on the body harness that it fits, but there is 6 wires in a bunch that have been cut, blues and whites. Is that  what it would have gone in to when it was all installed in a ZX?

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Thanks, I have compared the ZX wiring harness to the schematics I have found online. Some things match, some don't....

 

I found the EFI relay, seen here with a brown and green two pin plug(connects to +12V) and a four pin plug, supplies power to the ecu or the ecu relay if I remember correctly(the important thing is it matches the scheme i have)

DSC_0297.jpg

 

The main harness:

DSC_0301.jpg

 

Managed to find the Fuel relay and the male four pin plug connecting to the EFI harness:

DSC_0298.jpgDSC_0300.jpg

 

So I think I might get this done, but I'm now left with a mystery plug. A six pin connector, I can't find this in the efi schematic.

DSC_0293.jpg

I used a continuity tester and found that two of these wires are connected to the knock sensor, or at least I think its a knock sensor, a round thing screwed in to the block just underneath the head temp sensor...

Black and red wire...

DSC_0294.jpg

 

The other black wire from the 6 pin plug is an earth wire, the round type, connected somewhere on the intake plenum...

Then there is the red/black and red/yellow wire which I found cut on the loom along with the injectors...

DSC_0295.jpg

What could this be?? 

The last wire on the plug, a red one, I traced back to the ecu(but I can't remember what pin number)

 

Thermostat housing, notice I don't have the "normal" two pin connector type....

DSC_0292.jpg

 

Distributor, what is the plug at the bottom right, and what are the consequenses if I don't find this plug? I have found the top one.

DSC_0288.jpgDSC_0290.jpg

 

 

 

This is a plug inside under the dash of my car, it was connected to the efi harness. I believe the green/blue wire is for the fuel pump. The three others have the same coloring as three of the wires on the ignition so I believe they are 12V constant, ignition on and start?

DSC_0305.jpg

Would this be the best point to wire in the ZX efi harness?

 

Long post but if you read it and can help, big thank you :)

Also I think maybe this thread could be moved to the electrical or efi forum?

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The distributor photo the two spades are the blue and brown wires from the coil. Sme as N/A

There is no computer control of spark, it's a pneumatic function using the vacuum pot on the distributor.

 

The mystery six plug sounds like the EFI combination relay for fuel pump relay, etc...

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Yeah, I found those two.. but there is another connector on the bottom too, a two pin, On the wiring scheme one wire is connected to throttle switch and the other one to a thermal switch. But I don't have that plug in my wiring harness, just wondering what happens if it's not connected.

 

The efi relay and fuel pump relay are hooked up as per the efi wiring diagram which leaves me with that mystery plug.... Only one of them is connected to ECU, it goes to pin 27, same pin as power wire coming from EFI  relay, so this one is live when ecu is alive, but why? What does it do? That's what I'm wondering... The five other wires are as I said two for the knocking sensor, one engine earth and the two last ones appear in the same harness as injectors where they are cut. But I can't fin anything on the plenum for which they would have been connected to :/

 

What are the consequences of running this L28ET with the stock L28E  efi system? 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bringing this topic back again as I have another question, this time about differentials...

I have been thinking all along that my turbo diff is a 3.5 as it says so in the service manuals(but those are for the US and Canada version) I have, so I was slightly put off when I unbolted the diff cover and found that the crown wheel had the numbers 37:11 stamped, which equates to a 3.36 final drive.

This also a US/EU difference? 

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PLEASE go and re-read Post #2 where I said the R200 in the car was a 3.36.....

 

If you have a place to use it, the car responds nicely with that ratio above 100mph (160-200KPH acceleration.)

 

With a 3.9 and a turbo, you will be pressed with an early 5 speed as 200kph is 5300, near horsepower peak, and the later ZX tranny will move that down around 500 rpms. You need more than 200 to punch an S30 over 220kph so gearing becomes tricky unless you make some real power.

 

The 3.9 will get you to 200 quicker but you will have to 'short shift' the ratios. I personally prefer the 3.7 as it allows 100kph with only one gearshift and ready to hit 3rd for the pull near 170, and then again past 200.... 

 

The 3.36 pulls the gears much higher, so 3rd is past 160 as well but the turbo cam doesn't like 6500 in anything but 1 and 2, so you start shifting around 5500 to put it at peak torque to pull the next higher gear. It gets kind of boring.

 

Now, bigger turbo, Isky Cam, head work....WOO HOO! 120-200 in 4 seconds in third gear....YEAH!

Edited by Tony D
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