ComicArtist Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Can't find part numbers for SKF inners anywhere. Found a listing on eBay but I'm not sure if its legit or not. Anyone know if the 280zx uses different rear bearings? Finding lots of them but none for 280z's. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 (edited) This site might get you there. It's give you the Timken number anyway, to cross-ref from. http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/ And the Z and ZX bearings are different in the rear, both inner and outer. Not sure about the front. I think that the nomenclature is common in the bearing world. So RW101 would be the label. Here's an E-Bay link http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-Premium-Quality-RW101-Wheel-Bearing-New-/310681801599 You can also use your favorite PDF program to search for RW101 through this Timken catalog - http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=skf%20bearing%20cross-reference&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CFAQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timken.com%2Fen-us%2Fproducts%2FDocuments%2FTimken_Bearing_Cross_Reference_Guide.pdf&ei=Xy4EUvSkE6OhiAKE2YHIAg&usg=AFQjCNHcSSJ2h8RauqWLEO5iAFWfpmt6Sw&cad=rja Edited August 8, 2013 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 I found the skf number grw-116 is apparently the inner bearing, and 117 is apparently the outer. Can anyone verify this? What is the rw101 for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 My mistake. I saw ZX in your post and gave you the inner ZX number. RW101 is the number for the inner rear bearing of the ZX. RW116 and RW117 are Z numbers. Another source I've found for part numbers is RockAuto. You'll see that National, SKF and Timken all use the same numbers. These days, they might even be the same company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Found some on RockAuto, but they only had one left for inners. AutoZone actually can get the Timken part number for me for about $25 apiece! Looks like I'll be going through them. How is Timken as far as quality? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 (edited) Timken is excellent quality for future reference, but they don't make these bearings. I once ordered Federal Mogul but thought I was getting Timken. The Federal Mogul box had NSK bearings in it. When the Timken box arrived... NSK bearings. BTW I have 280ZXT stub axle nuts I'm getting rid of on ebay. $15 a set for nuts and washers, brand new, free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/271253803761?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Edited August 9, 2013 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Timken started reboxing OEM from other manufacturers quite a while ago... Part of a spin-off and corporate restructure to concentrate less on actual manufacturing, and more on "clean pass-through" parts re marketing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Still, if I order the Timken part numbers from AutoZone, will the parts that I get, regardless of manufacturer, fit on my s30 and not blow up in 500 miles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 For an extra $18 you can get the Nissan part - http://www.courtesyparts.com/brg-rr-ax-p-359331.html Might be an NSK or some other brand though. But at least it has the Nissan seal of approval. You could probably get your local dealer to get some in and open the box to see what you're getting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 (edited) The purpose of bearing numbers is local manufacturer interchange. OEM's don't make the bearings, they source them. I don't hesitate to use Japan, US, or German bearings... For years, buying a "Timken" meant you GOT a Timken which was the standard of the industry. Many times off-brand manufacturers used cheap bearings in alternators, or other accessories (Toyota Alternators, specifically, seem to go 50K miles...) when you upgraded to Timken, that was the last bearing you ever needed. But get one with "China" on it? I might pass... "Global Sourcing" is fine if your suppliers don't take it upon themselves to change what hey put into the product to meet the spec, regardless of the consequences otherwise. China has a history of doing that, regardless of the industry served, and I suspect bearings are no different... An OEM will continue to price-shop. Japanese aren't as bad as some... So the Japanese NSK in the car today may be a better bearing than the Chinese NSK you get from the OEM! Additionally, going to dedicated bearing houses like Applied Industrial / King Bearing / Bearings Inc, you can specify "C-Ratings" which give closer tolerances than most OEM setups, or have higher sustained speed ratings. Just be aware, ESPECIALLY on tapered-cone style bearings (Long referred to as "Timken Bearings" from their inventor) that the trend has been recently to separate bearing and race as separate service parts (thanks, MBS's!) and that the race you have may NOT fit a modern bearing of the same interchange size!!! The race externally will fit, and the bearing inner shaft will be the same size, but many bearings in the last 20 years have been reworked with thinner races and larger roller elements due to better control of metallurgy. I always buy new race and bearing as a set. It's not worth it to me, besides, I always have the old one as a spare for on the road! Edited August 9, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Well, just ordered everything. Ordered RW116 (inner bearings) from AutoZone for $24.99 apiece. Ordered RW117 (outer bearings) from eBay, they were half the price that they were at AutoZone. Ordered the inner bearing grease seals from the local Nissan dealership, just to ensure that I got the right part number. The AutoZone guy didn't know what he was talking about, and all the eBay listings were misleading. Here's the prices if anyone is interested: AutoZone: RW116 - $24.99 RW117 - $59.99 eBay: RW116 - $30 - $90 apiece RW117 - $$30 apiece Nissan: 43232 e4100 - $18 for both sides. Total cost in all was around $130 for all brand new parts, using Timken part numbers. Who knows what will actually come in the box. Thanks for all the help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Take your grease seal into a bearing house, and they will measure inner diameter, outer diameter, width, and lip style...and give you the same seal. But knowing these dimensions you can specify a seal wider or narrower in width to move the wear point if you wish...or like me find the widest seal that will fit in the allotted space, and then double up on the lip seals for extra water intrusion protection. These are standard things, lay money you will find an NSK part number on that Nissan Seal. When you do the Tripod Axle Conversion, this is how you get the proper seal to fit the early housing with the later axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reverend Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Very nice info. I gotta change my "howlers" too as soon as the winter hits here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted August 16, 2013 Author Share Posted August 16, 2013 Funny, the bearings were all in Timken boxes, the inners from autozone had skf stamps, the outers from eBay were nsk. My grease seals from Nissan should be in soon, and the spindles should be back from the welder soon too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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