Complete floor/subframe/firewall transplant to pre-smog Datsun

[ThreeDeadZs]

Holy Crap!  Thanks again Socorob, a Google search for the Sunbeam Alpines (and other cars) using Miata subframes led me to a very helpful image.  I don't readily see how to post it directly in this thread, so here's a link where it is the first image:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=449226

(please PM instructions on how to post the image directly, and I'd edit this message accordingly)

 

It is a beautiful photo of a complete Miata subframe set with the center (spline?) and complete drivetrain, sitting in a driveway like all you'd have to do is wire it up and throw on a saddle!  Okay, maybe not, but to see that it is self supporting is very encouraging.  The number of connection points (from prior knowledge) are very few.  As the wheelbase is only 30mm longer than a Datsun 1200, and the track ~6" wider, the Datsun body should be relatively easy to modify to match  (move front wheels forward 30cm and flare fenders at least 3".  The Datsun 1200 would also be at the ride-height of a Miata, effectively lowering it substantially but with perfect suspension geometry!  With this photo in mind, I'd be inclined to keep the entire 1200 besides the suspension, and a classic Datsun engine (with carburetor and minimal wiring necessary) for the initial build, with obvious upgrades of brake master cylinder, custom driveshaft, and a solution to the steering arm, to name the most obvious concerns.  Unlike those perfect ground-up restorations, I'd be inclined to leave the car mostly "old."  I think it would add to the charm of when the car flies around an autocross track, or spanks most high dollar sportscars from a light (at approximately 1/2 the weight, using a built SR20DET with aftermarket control and new turbo) though performance may be entirely satisfactory with an L20B.

 

I was going to give a link to a finished project as proof, but did not find one yet.  No matter, I know of at least one racing fabricator that uses Miata subframes to build their racecars.

[socorob]

If you want something relatively cheap and fast for autox why don't you just build a locost? It would be much easier than all of this grafting business.

[johnc]

Or you can buy the STS Miata that podium'd at the SCCA Solo2 Nationals two years in a row for $6k and get out there and compete tomorrow.

[ThreeDeadZs]

Thanks again Socorob, twice!

 

I tried to reply to you last night, but the forum would accept.  That "Locost" idea is really cool:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locost

There are several manufacturers and several donors, but of most interest are the ones that use the Miata as a donor.  Some are shoddy and incomplete.  But I looked at quite a few and am particularly fond of this one:

http://exomotive.com/mevx5/

That would be just barely enough car for me, my dog, and a few groceries - so that's just what I want.  It maintains the legal identity of the donor Miata, which if I can get sufficient CA approved performance upgrades, might actually work for me.  I guess I have to consider this further.  Besides that example, the Locosts are all too small and require a lot of jumping through hoops to get licensed in California.

 

Building a smog exempt classic (even a tiny coupe like the 1200) still seems my best option to get what I want.  In fact, I wrote to that company last night about bottom rails or a custom cage to fit inside a body.  I'll let you know if that gets anywhere.  They already have jigs prepped for most of it, and maybe I can buy their complete cage and then have it modified, from one of their models.  Or perhaps another manufacturer will do it.  I checked CA law very carefully; the pre-smog car (with full suspension/frame swap) would still be smog exempt and not require any inspection as far as the laws I could find.  It would look like a Datsun, presumably use the engine of a Datsun, so would still be a Datsun.

 

If I wanted to stay smog legal in what I build, I have to admit that Exotec's MEVX5 coupe which maintains the Miata's legal identity is extremely appealing.  With a stated budget of $8K, that $7K body plus a donor and the work to put it together might put me well over $10K for just a running car, maybe $12K may be more realistic.

Edited August 21, 2013 by ThreeDeadZs

[socorob]

There was a guy with a locost with a hyabusa engine here a few years back and he had it registered as a motorcycle some way. He had to drive it with a helmet because of that.

[ThreeDeadZs]

I just talked to a guy at Exomotive; he was friendly and knowledgeable.  It sounds like if you (someone reading this thread) are interested in an autocross car to build, their complete sets are definitely worth considering.  However, none of their equipment is designed such that I'd be able to use just part of it to attach to any car body.  They also have their hands full and can't do any custom complete tube frames.  However, he was kind enough to discuss it with me, and to explain a few things.  Apparently even steering linkage issues are not a problem with Miatas and LS1 engines, so that's promising.

 

The MEVX5 (except the ultra-light) really amounts to just a cosmetic rebody kit for a Miata, so it uses the Miata's entire structural body.  So structurally it is not a redesign.  The other designs really aren't conducive to being used under an existing body.  Perhaps I can get them to sell me just bottom tube frames built on their jig, but that leaves a lot of custom fabrication left to do.

 

Back to the drawing board...

I dowloaded a bootleg FSM (factory service manual) for the Miata (low res, in German), and a free 1200 FSM (quality and in English).  At first I was going to quote the exact dimensions here from the body geometry pages, but the thread will not benefit from it.  After studying them for hours, I realize there's no replacement for going to the junkyard(s) tomorrow and actually measuring and knocking around on some Miatas, and see what they look like wrecked!  From the manuals I have an idea of what I might do, but the junkyards will help me figure it out better. 

[johnc]

Your mistaken regarding "smog exempt." No car registered in CA is exempt from the smog regulations applicable to that car as of its date of manufacture. The exemption is for inspection - time of sake and bi-annual (and only those two types of inspection) for cars model year 1975 and earlier. There are other types of inspections that those cars are not exempt from:

 

1. Enhanced Inspection Programs.

2. Directed Inspection Programs.

3. Police or BAR Ordered Inspection.

[ThreeDeadZs]

JohnC,

You are absolutely right about cars (newer than 1967, I think) not being smog exempt; merely "exempt from biennial inspection if 1975 model year or older."  I received your message a while ago and have read about everything you quoted.  Please give some references, because I didn't find your list to be accurate (I really want to know, not disagree for disagreement's sake).  I searched for each term carefully, including gov't websites, and to the best of my understanding:  #1 and #2 don't apply to cars 1975 or older at all.  The second part of #3 doesn't either...

 

 

However, any police officer can pull me over at any time, and have me pop the hood and he/she can do a visual inspection on the spot.  I did not find examples of them impounding 1975 or older cars, but citing them to be inspected.  In my defense, I did write yesterday "SR20DET RWD is not a US engine, so every one that is in Calfornia is breaking the law."  I'd suggest people follow the following article to avoid trouble:

http://ericpetersautos.com/2011/06/13/classic-cars-and-the-smog-police/

In addition to what he says, I'd also paint/decorate your newer engine with classic Datsun colors and Datsun stickers.  Also, if a citation instead of impound is the penalty (which I cannot absolutely verify) have the stock equipment or whole pre-smog engine ready to drop into the car.

 

All that said, if I built this 1200/Miata... I could just use an L20B or build a Frankenstein LZ22 block with L20B head, forged pistons, porting and such, and that would pass a visual inspection, and I could get a more powerful engine later.

[johnc]

You have to look at the actual regulations and the BAR compliance programs. Search on this site, myself and others have provided links. And an officer won't impound your car, he will write a citation requiring a smog test at a STAR station with 10 days.

 

There are also directed inspection programs done to verify how effective the smog program is. Random vehicles are targeted with a suspected non-compliance area. They also do the same with specific car models. S15s got hammered a few years ago.

[LLave]

Or you can buy the STS Miata that podium'd at the SCCA Solo2 Nationals two years in a row for $6k and get out there and compete tomorrow.

 

Oh come on... that just makes too much sense. 

[ThreeDeadZs]

I don't know what individual Miata is being mentioned (SCCA SOLO II winner for $6K), but I did say from the beginning that this is to be a daily driver for me and my giant dog in the mountains.  A roadster would not work.  Miata hardtop coupe (MEVX5 body kit) is interesting.

 

I also mentioned that I want a body that is not smog inspected.  If it weren't for CA SMOG, I'd buy a S14 240SX and swap in the SR20DET that should have been put in the USDM Sylvia in the first place. 

 

JohnC: If I get ten days to take it to a STAR test center, If I keep a stock-like engine in storage, and set the car up for quickly mounting it, I should be able to get through that situation.  From what I read (and I can't be certain that those sources are correct) random stops don't include 1975 and older cars, and targeted stops are never going to include the Datsun 1200.  You are absolutely right, though, by being non-compliant using an old body, I could get in trouble.  That is certainly worth sharing with anyone reading this thread.

[johnc]

Those roadside tests are for survey purposes only and will not result in any further enforcement or inspection for the individuals participating. I got caught in one (on purpose) with my all stock 1971 240z. The cop was told to wave over every 25th car. My car was very stock and clean so I was trying to get a good data point in the system for our cars. It worked and I spent an hour talking with the BAR techs and the cops about the program.

[johnc]

FYI... After I left I called a few other Z guys with clean stock cars and asked if the could drive by the survey. None could.

 

I also had the plan to use a stock engine for a modified 1977 280z. With a busy life (family, business, etc.) it was too much trouble to set aside two Saturdays for the swap before and after the inspection. I would have been really fucked with only a 10 day notice.

[ThreeDeadZs]

John Coffey:  I've always planned on whatever I build to be clean, so it will pass the tailpipe and EVAP tests, like including a high flow cat in a custom exhaust when the body never even had a cat, and having all the functions they look for working.  I'm going to try to make it even pass a visual from less knowledgeable or lenient inspectors, since each purpose they will look for will actually be working, and the emissions will be low.  I may even use a pre-smog block model, but build a Frankenstein, NA or Turbo.  I'll paint and dress it according to what they expect, maybe even use the timing cover and valve cover that they expect.  Only time and such a test will tell whether I get away with it.  Another point about being "smog exempt" is that as long as they don't cite the vehicle or change it's status, it would not be required to precisely match stock, or go through the trouble and expense of biennial inspection.  It could even be parked for a few years and stay paid up and registered without inspection.

 

Datsun 1200: I've studied this as far as I can on paper, and inspecting a Miata at the junkyard.  Big problem: Distance between door-skins is a few inches less than a Miata.  This means I cannot use the Miata floor with it's huge transmission tunnel and manage to fit any seats in the car.  Fabrication would have to be completely custom using the 1200's unibody complete, plus completely custom front snout, rear tub, rollbar and reinforcements.  Using the Miata gas-tank allows using that section of Miata floor, with no equipment behind the suspension.  There may be an advantage to offsetting the front and rear suspensions forward as much as a foot (using a fuel cell or stock tank), custom flaring new wheel-wells.  That would give the 1200 a massive engine bay behind the front suspension, move the weight bias back, but require a custom steering rod and hope for no interference.  The engine mounts would of course have to be custom, but that's the easy part.  I'm still pursuing it, but have my doubts.

 

Peej410's use of BMW E36 M3 suspension would be especially suitable to a 2/2 (2+2), assuming I can find a 1974 or 1975 body (260Z, 280Z), because the wheelbase can be made to exactly match by extending the wheelbase 5" (requiring additional custom fabrication), particularly if the front suspension can be moved forward as much as possible.  I may explore that if the 1200 falls through.

[ThreeDeadZs]

Update: I've been doing lots of reading!  Gathering bootleg copies of Factory Service Manuals, writing up comparisons, looking for the best "interface" between the bodies and subframe designs, checking out Locost projects, and even (no kidding) considering building a kit car.  It still comes back to my original premise, I'd like a "pre-smog" CA car with an SR20DET and a suspension to handle it.  (with the caveat that I could be randomly inspected, right John?)

 

Also had a conversation with the guy who used BMW M3 components, and learned how his car is build for high speed stability and a very involved build, and that the M3 subframes would not be suitable nor economical for a swap for me, as I'm interested in low speed performance.

 

I came to the conclusion that for a 240Z or a 510; there's no substitute for a stock-based suspension with the ordinary upgrade paths done a million times.  Calculated/estimated something I found surprising: subtract the entire drivetrain and suspension from a 240Z and a 510, and end up at nearly the same weight, with additional weight savings available for the 240Z (a front airdam is a must for high speed stability, and lightweight 240Z body kits are widely available), so really a 240Z is more suitable to a cheap or late model 4-banger conversion than a 510 if you don't need the interior room, which moves the weight to the rear for low speed performance (autocross), and the 240Z suspension and brakes will perform better by the ratio of how much it is lightened from stock.  RB2xDET(T) is all the rage, but a SR20DET or better and more money a SR20VET hybrid are excellent, even a QR25DE RWD 2007+ based build (that's a complex subject of it's own), basic SR20DE, and so many other engines that are lighter than the L series it isn't worth listing them.

 

Back to the ultra-light bodies using replacement subframes, which is the point of this thread: a Datsun 1200 [b110] weighs only 1600 lbs stock.  Miata subframes (thus suspension, steering, and brakes) perform extremely well in autocross in the stock Miata which start at 2100lbs.  The much cheaper and easier to find (including parts) Datsun B210 (1975-1979, I'd only use 1975 for smog reasons) weighs 2000lbs.  1975 likely had those huge mandated crash bumpers and other 'debris' which could be removed to save a lot of weight.  So while Fugly (F* ugly), the B210 could use a cosmetic make-over, and likely fit even an SR20DET.  It is worth mentioning that someone who likes them could do this with a Datsun 1600 Roadster (though the results are hard to estimate, since that Datsun weighs 2000lbs with an old style ladder frame and solid axle rear).

 

Miata subframes alone are really easy to fabricate connections for, with connections 880mm apart.  Classic Datsuns had front rails much closer together, and the rear "supports" are hopelessly complex shaped to attach anything to.  I spent some time on the locost forum, and talking to a manufacturer of Miata based kit cars - didn't really get anywhere, though communicated with some nice people.  Here's where it is at now:

 

1. I'm ready to give up, buy a 240Z stock, do ordinary suspension upgrades, build a platform to hold my dog partially into the passenger seat area, level with the rear floor, and have no passenger seat.  Groceries go up front.  That's pretty much what I do now with another car.

2. Custom tube frame to hold the Miata subframes into the Datsun body and hold the really simple Miata subframes, gutting the engine compartment completely, and rear seats get replaced with a long rear floor for a long hatchback.  Going this custom, may as well move the front subframe as far forward as possible to increase engine bay space, and move the rear subframe as far forward as possible to minimize and hopefully match the wheelbase to the Miata.  Rear gets gutted of all complexity, fuel cell goes just behind the suspension, spare tire mounts below floor behind that, bar goes across so a rear end accident crushes the rear body first and the spare tire, by the time it hits the fuel cell I'd be already be dead in a stock car.  Likely out of my price range, but perhaps a very straightforward project.  I learned a method of easily increasing the steering link length from the Locost (Lotus 7) sources.

And finally:

3. This is what I'd like to explore which is directly related to the purpose of this thread (this is just my own idea, so fabricators, if I'm totally wrong, chime in but please don't flame me!):

  3a. At least locate a Datsun B110 or B210 to measure periodically, not necessarily buying one for the project yet.  Or buy a cheap junker with good body panels but not floor or drivetrain.  Compare the stock distance of the floor and body panels of the Datsun to those of the Miata ( I don't yet have that comparison, but will try to get them soon ).  If the Datsun is more than 3" higher than the Miata, then consider "only" lowering the Datsun 3" and increase the custom framerail depth by the additional height under the floor of the resulting project, thereby increasing the bending strength of the project.

  3b. Buy a complete Miata that is worthless (best donor is supposedly 94+ because suspension and brakes increased when they increased the engine size, but if using much wiring you might avoid OBDII from 1997 on) and sell off all the cosmetics, interior, all removable body panels, (and after complete body removal, which is easiest with the engine, transmission , PPF, and front and rear suspension systems intact) sell the engine, transmission and differential unless you like that gearing and aren't putting out too much power.  Hopefully this actually profits, instead of costing money, and you end up with a shell.   Remove the gas tank, but might not use it.  Flip the body over without damaging the chassis near it's floor.  Support the front and back so you can chop up the frame-rails without the body bending (though the transmission tunnel and rocker panels are substantial).  With everything intact, cut the framerails perfectly flat to the floorboard, so it can be replaced with two pieces of square tubing.

  3c. Determine the Datsun's best (I figure forward-most) position for the rear Miata suspension, when converted to a 2 seater plus long hatch.  Then determine the forwardmost reasonable position for the Miata's front suspension for all clearances, or further back if you prefer.  Calculate this distance and compare to stock Miata's 2270mm.  If equal or less, then stick to stock Miata geometry exactly.  If longer, you'll need to cut the Miata 'jig' in half and lengthen it and support it rigidly. 

  3d. Weld the box frame rail replacements to the front and rear framerails, but not to the floor.  Add doubler plates if necessary to maintain the strength from front/rear frame rails to the box frame (soon to be) floor frame rails.  Find a couple of locations for initial crossmembers while still mounted to the chassis.  That might be a "K" support at the front or rear, or if not able to be determined at this time, keep the rear floor installed and even spot weld a temporary 'top' under the front and even temporarily install the bare suspension subframes.

  3e. Chop the Miata away from your newly minted pair of framerails keeping extra with teh framerails until you know you don't need it: for example, the entire inner wheelwells with shock mounts, and ease the framerails to the floor right side up.  Cost up to this point if enough Miata parts are sold: labor and some steel.

 

4a. Take a Datsun body with all the hard to find trim and glass (B110 or B210) bought cheap, remove the front fenders and grill for reuse, and gut the car from in front of the firewall, though consider maintaining the sheetmetal that supports the fenders, and the support to the front supports  (cut less now, so as not to add it back in later).  Do the same behind the driver's compartment (everything from the floor down, including wheelwells and strut towers, after taking off the door(s) and preparing points for an engine hoist to lift the body from near it's cG  (an adjustable hoist would help).  It is better to cut away too little and figure out what is needed.

4b. Test fit the body to the frame, and cut the body back each as required for clearances.  The body and frame will eventually be welded, so the frame need not be completely outside the body.  Add doubler plates to the framerails.  Continue test fitting and perfecting the measurements, maintaining the body straight and level relative to the frame.  When satisfied everything fits, tack weld (and eventually seam weld) all connection points.  With the front suspension forward, a filler box will be needed to extend the front framerails to the firewall.

4c. Having clear indication of the correct location, install substantial "K" crossmembers at the front and rear of the car, install a rear floor welded to the quarter panels and then mount the car on a rotisserie.  After the body is clearly self-supporting on the rotisserie, remove the Miata subframes again, and finish out reinforcing the car's framing with crossmembers, fuel cell support, rollbar (supported by sheetmetal to the body all the way around makes it into a bulkhead).  No doubt I've missed some steps.

4d. complete the project with engine/transmission mounts, plumbing, wiring (the Datsun wiring could be reused), support for the fuel cell, front body work, and around  3" of fender flaring, but if building such a monster, may as well give it more to allow giant tires.  (9" wide tires on a ~2000lb car???!!)

5.  After making sure the rolling chassis works well (even driving for a while with some readily available engine), build it up for a SR20DET!!!

 

One thing I did not address is that if space allows, install the springs/struts inboard with rockers, or using long coil-overs that mount according to the body instead of the stock Miata tops, or a custom choice in between.  Likewise, I did not specify any use of a rollcage, but just mentioned a single rollbar.  Nor did I mention that because there would no longer be a narrow sheetmetal engine bay, that coolers could be located and vented more like a racecar.  This is not meant to be considered complete.  I basically put my proposal down into steps.  This is completely open to constructive criticism.  "Just buy a 240Z" is not constructive.  The thing is, if I cannot pull off this very detailed build, I AM going to "just buy a 240Z."  I'd really like to know if this can be completed as I've described it, or perhaps in some superior and more economical fashion.  Having a car at 1600-2000lbs with Miata based suspension, pre-smog, with a massive engine bay (and enclosed hatchback) would be a riot.  Blowing away the best of them with one of the slowest cars of the 70's (the B210) would be hilarious.  Whether or not I build it, I'd like this thread to be the basis so someone else can.

Edited September 3, 2013 by ThreeDeadZs

[Tony D]

"* California SMOG law does not allow any performance modifications, so using exempt bodies is the only way around it"

 

Actuall, I have to agree with John Coffey on this one.

What you propose is an "engine swap", no different than a V8 into any other Z-Car.

 

This engine swap, per DMV Regulations must be reported.

 

Upon reporting it, the newer smog-required engine specs will be required to make the swap "legit."

 

The strawman of putting it in an earlier body implies nothing more than any other unregistered, illegal engine swap out there.

 

Those Hondas impounded in Moreno Valley street racing years ago, and crushed because of "illegal engine swaps" were not thusly classified because of JDM B16's, it was because the engine number did not match the registration paperwork.

 

Obscure? Yep. Everybody doing it? Perhaps. Is the DMV now attaching bank accounts to recover back registration fees? Yep.

 

Anything that can generate revenue will be milked. As John Coffey mentioned, just buying the Miata for $6k gets you no legal headaches and a car you can drive now.

 

I met a guy who put a Honda CRV inside a Mini Clubman, tube frame and all over an FRP Body he made. Great job of vintage body over modern mechanicals... But nothing will stop it being impounded from what can be perceived by law enforcement as an attempt to alter vehicle identity, or VIN's.

 

You start swapping things like this in CA, SMOG laws are the LEAST of your worries. Recordkeeping of sourced components and SCRUPULOUS REPORTING to the DMV of changes is the way to keep this car in your possession, and not ping to the crusher from some stupid roadside stop and an officer that says "Hey, waitaminit...pop the hood...I want to check the hard VIN!"

[Tony D]

Which, I might add, has occurred to me no less than four times... Always by a CHP.

 

CHP likes to check VIN's for some reason...

[ThreeDeadZs]

This has happened to you four times?  I've never had it happen, or seen it happen in California.  Saw it happen once in Missouri in the 1980's (I don't think there was a smog law) just to make sure nothing was from stolen cars.  May I ask what your car is, and what might be special about it, that gets so much CHP attention?

 

I have had (and I'm not boasting, in fact far from it, as I buy old broken cars, fix them and use them for a while, tire of them and sell them in working condition, getting something newer) more cars than I can remember.  Certainly over 20.  How many did I swap the engine?  Maybe half of them (all legitimate swaps to the same model year) but I never reported any of them, and they subsequently passed smog; every single one.  Smog guys checked the engine model of the block.  I've made a few hybrids (or Frankenstein builds) and they are never caught as such.  One smog guy was floored when he reported to me that my Honda Civic was running cleaner than brand new model year cars, and it was ten years old.  (That Frankenstein was in a car that Honda got approved to have no cat (because of some strange exhaust manifold that burned waste gas, and I had a secondary cat from a newer larger car in the pipe, I may have also built the engine for higher compression, and used a better head).  That was back before things got so stupidly strict (the car ran extremely clean and fast, but I re-engineered it, could go from a full stop to 90mph in second gear)

 

What you are saying about swapping the model (like putting a B18C1 in my B18B1 Acura without reporting it) will get my car crushed.  You are absolutely right about that.  Funny thing about the VIN on my Honda - it is on the transmission bell-housing, not the engine.  Older cars don't have VIN's on the engines.  Putting a regulated engine into an unregulated car; I'm pretty sure they are coming down hard on that, which of course is exactly what I'm proposing - so I could get busted.  With the car being exempt, do you know what the ramifications are?  Ten days to take it to a Star Station, and swap back in an exempt engine before it; I could plan for that.  Any pre-smog engine into any pre-smog body is supposed to be okay, but I suppose I'm supposed to have the expected smog equipment installed.  I don't know about reporting requirements.  I should look into that.

 

Complete suspension swaps, interiors, and body as long as it is still recognizable as it's original model - are all completely okay without reporting changes.  I do know that.

 

All for now, I'm never up this late.

[Tony D]

Happened in my 1973 240Z not five hundred feet from my house on the way to work one morning. "My car was smoking" was the reason for the stop. Riverside, on Magnolia Avenue/6th St 1992 Current Plates & Registration

 

Happened in my Company (unsigned or logoed) G30 van -- big white van, asked for me to move my clipboard to read he VIN on the dash. Thousand Oaks on 101. 1998 Current Plates & Registration

 

Happened in a car I was transporting from the Port Warehouser off Wilmington in Compton. This car had no plates (Prototype Chrysler Vehicle Reimported to the USA) and was the only one I really thought they SHOULD check the VIN. 2006 Shipping Documents & KY Temp Tag on the front seat.

 

Happened in DECEMBER in my 2002 F150 with Ohio Transport Tags.

 

As for whatever semantics you want to argue, it's your car... Do what you want. Just because you don't get caught doesn't mean it's legal. I know what the regs are, and I know what the situation in CA is regarding revenue... Maybe you're one of those guys that gets lucky with this kind of crap and nobody checks you...

 

Rest assured, an L28 in a 240Z is an illegal engine swap if the Engine Number was not reported to the DMV according to the letter of the law and CVC. A smog check does not check for CVC compliance, only SMOG Compliance. I, personally don't want to be the guy having to hire a lawyer to argue "everybody else did it for years"...

 

I have taken the proper steps to exempt my engine swaps from reporting guidelines, simply because of my seemingly random VIN Checking by the CHP. It's all in the CVC. You don't. Necessarily get a ten day STAR Compliance Check...that's a SMOG requirement again. Having worked task force where cars are impounded daily....it doesn't take a lot for a working, law abiding citizen to get his ride impounded over VIN Matters. Get he car classified as a 462...kiss your hard work goodbye! One Detective and a bad day can make or a very bad day from what I've seen....especially when here is a VIN conflict. Have the CHP Assign one...I wouldn't use either of the donor vehicle VIN's... Doing so without the other parts reported, and the presence of a conflicting VIN...recipe for a very bad day!

[Tony D]

In fact, when I got my speeding ticket in Michigan earlier in December in the F150. The MSP Trooper at he Ogemaw County Line also checked the VIN...probably for the CIC search as a temp tag is useless for that.