RebekahsZ Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Did some searching and a bunch of reading on this diff over past few days using hybridz search and google. Found some very helpful threads about spring washer stacks and these diffs being assembled incorrectly from the factory. However, most of the links for repair parts and instructions were so old that they weren't working properly. I got this diff from another hybridz member with the knowledge that it was making ugly noises-purchase price hasn't been set, because previous owner didn't know if it could be fixed. Sure enough, it was low on oil and the oil was very thin and ugly. Lots of metal chunks in case and lots of metal on the magnetic plug. Want to tear into this thing, but only if I can find a source for parts, most likely the spring washers. I'm not looking to start another thread on the merits of this or any kind of LSD, just looking for parts and rebuild instructions. Thanks for any help you can give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akira Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 If you're looking for the spring washers..you can go with the rbryant washers or the mcmaster washers. http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm or http://www.mcmaster.com/#9712k83/=ox7fug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 Score for hybridz!!!! Thanks, Akira. The links for these parts no longer worked on the old threads. Thanks so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 Beat me to it. The rbryant set up is the way I went Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Just for anyone else looking to know, that diff has had about 10k miles behind an LS1/T56 car with a overly strong clutch. Its lasted through 5 broken halfshafts(1 at ~100mph). It also went about 1500 miles in a L28ET car before I got it. I knew the diff leaked, and checked it every once in a while, but it must have got low or it might have spilled some when I pulled it out of the car. It was starting to make some funky, not so good sounding noises. Marbles in a jar, grinding-ish sounds, etc. It got the upgraded washers/bolts when it was new from FlatBlack on this forum who had it behind the L28ET car. It was however a great diff, always spun two as far as I know. It lasted a good amount of dragstrip passes(Always on 275/40R17 street tires though), ~8 autoX events, and ~10k street miles. -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 I'm seriously thinking of ditching the VLSD swap for my r200 for this lsd ! 've been doing the same as you RebekahsZ and doing research on here about that differential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Daz-Can you tell me about your vlsd and why you are considering a change? I have one on the shelf but I don't know how it's performance will compare with my CLSD that I currently run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meph Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 my obx was 15 thou undersized and torqued in the carrier / loaded the pinion = runined diff. Check it to your old one before installing with same shims Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 Actually I want to try the OBX for the simplicity of just plugging in my z31t axles after the carrier is in ! The VLSD I have, I pulled from a z32 NA. The shorter of the 2 five star stubs has to be shortened a little so that it seats flush because it sit out maybe 1/4 to 3/8". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 Sorry for the repetition, but I think there might be an advantage to machining spacers to fit in there and getting rid of some/all of the spring washers. Several people have had their side shafts grinding on the housing because the washers wore away. Comparable helical diffs like the Truetrac don't have springs at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 JMortensen-expect a PM about this helical. The rubbing of the axles on the housing bugs me and makes me want to pass on the project...just seems like a lot of work when I have two CLSDs and a VLSD already. I have lots of other projects that are higher priority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Figured I'd toss in my 2 cents after installing the OBX this past spring. It arrived at my door with many of the typical quality control issues; gears installed backwards, mismatched hardware, and one of the bolts was stripped, it was actually significantly shorter than the rest, and seemed to have stretched from inadequate thread engagement. Of course ordered Richard Bryant's kit (very helpful guy and more than willing to answer your questions). between myself and the driveline shop, we broke about half a dozen taps trying to chase the damaged threads in the carrier. The machinist then suggested I dremel grooves in the included hardware and use them as a large set of disposable taps. This actually work quite well, but one this is for sure, the carrier material is VERY hard in these parts. I then adjusted the washer stack as per Bryant's instructions, and knocked down any sharp edges and other areas that looked prone to chipping with a dremel and grind stone. I then chucked all the parts in the dishwasher, installed new carrier bearings ($12/ea direct from SKF) and assembled the carrier with plenty of gear oil. I took it to the driveline shop to be shimmed and check the gear wipe pattern, plus torgue the carrier and ring gear bolts since I didn't have a vice at home. Cost at the machine shop was $150, but it's not step skip, in regards to Meph's post, if all carriers and bearings were identical in size, they probably wouldn't come with shims. Anways once I had the diff installed, I did run into the issue of the stub axle studs rubbing on the diff housing on decel. It wasn't terribly bad, and actually self-clearanced itself after a few day's driving. I'll have to take a close look now to see if the material came off the studs or the case, if it's the studs then it's easy enough to replace, and I can grind down the case slightly. I'm not sure how other people's grinding issues compare, but unless is significantly worse than what I experienced, it seems like it could be solved easily enough taking a grinding wheel to the case where the studs would otherwise hit. In conclusion, despite some minor issues, I would certainly recommend the OBX if you don't mind trading a few hours of your time for $1000 savings over a Quaife. I've now put about 5000km on the diff with zero issue, and the first oil change at 1000km didn't show any trace of metal shavings or paste. Performance wise I have no complaints. I have nothing to compare it to, but you certainly don't notice it's there until you break traction, then driving becomes faaaar more predictable than it ever was with open gears. I can't wait to be able to throw more power at it and make full use of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Anways once I had the diff installed, I did run into the issue of the stub axle studs rubbing on the diff housing on decel. It wasn't terribly bad, and actually self-clearanced itself after a few day's driving. I'll have to take a close look now to see if the material came off the studs or the case, if it's the studs then it's easy enough to replace, and I can grind down the case slightly. I'm not sure how other people's grinding issues compare, but unless is significantly worse than what I experienced, it seems like it could be solved easily enough taking a grinding wheel to the case where the studs would otherwise hit. As the washers wear there will be more movement in the side gears, so more rubbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Next time I head to Little Rock, I think I'm gonna return this diff to its owner-I just don't have the energy for another project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 As the washers wear there will be more movement in the side gears, so more rubbing. Good to know. Perhaps I'll break out the grinder this winter and buy some time before it happens again. Out of curiosity, how does Quaife deal with the issue? Are the sun gears sprung, or do they use some sort of spacer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 I don't know. True-tracs and Torsens don't have any springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meph Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Hey guys, Ive decided to part ways with my OBX carrier. If anyone wants to pick it up, I've already installed the upgrade kit with washers and bolts. Looking to get $325 USD + shipping. Sorry if this is the wrong place to bring it up, I managed to mess up my diff (while out of the car) and just replacing it with a 3.54 that im not cracking open, no time as Im moving soon and the car will be driving 3500km Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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