SUNNY Z Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 With the car running, try to stuff it into gear without using the clutch. If it chatters and makes a bunch of noise, the synchros are shot. If it just refuses to go in, the synchros are in decent shape. But what do I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Just pull the trans, shifter and driveshaft. I'll come get it next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 We're all pretty good a heckling a guy when he's down, aren't we? You said earlier that you were leaking from somewhere-where was that? WarlordZ spotted my big oil leak (a drop) either at the oil filter or at the oil pressure sender. If you look at my content, you will see that I warped a flywheel almost instantly after doing my conversion by trying to slip clutch at the track (I don't know how Sunny Z got away with all that clutch slippage he had at the Import Shootout). Once you have it working again, for high rpm launches, just dump it and let the chips fly where they may-easier to change a driveshaft or an axle than to drop the tranny and install a clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 With the car running, try to stuff it into gear without using the clutch. If it chatters and makes a bunch of noise, the synchros are shot. If it just refuses to go in, the synchros are in decent shape. But what do I know. Thanks Sunny and I'll try to power shift it and see where that takes me...it couldn't get any worse lol Camaro's and other TR6060's have bad 2/3 gear shifts and I knew this when I bought it but I can't shift it at nearly 6k then I have to get that fixed. Just pull the trans, shifter and driveshaft. I'll come get it next week. Haha WarlordZ, I really don't wanna have to remove this thing lol it was a pain to get all that up in there We're all pretty good a heckling a guy when he's down, aren't we? You said earlier that you were leaking from somewhere-where was that? WarlordZ spotted my big oil leak (a drop) either at the oil filter or at the oil pressure sender. If you look at my content, you will see that I warped a flywheel almost instantly after doing my conversion by trying to slip clutch at the track (I don't know how Sunny Z got away with all that clutch slippage he had at the Import Shootout). Once you have it working again, for high rpm launches, just dump it and let the chips fly where they may-easier to change a driveshaft or an axle than to drop the tranny and install a clutch. Lol, yeah just got engaged and already getting beat down by everybody haha just kidding. Haven't had time to get under the car, been in a cabin all weekend... The Duramax is awaiting the 5" Flo-Pro and H&S to roll some coal when the weather gets warmer too led alone the Z's leaky trans but I'll get around to it. I got the fluid in a little while back (more royal purple synchromax) and a rear mainshaft gasket and skip shift connector plug to remove that. It's one or the other. Yeah I need to let it fly because I have the bad (early <25,000 serial number) tr6060 mainshaft and it could break with a bad rear hop as well so next time and every time I will give it all shes got lol (a whole whopping ~320hp). When I have dumped the clutch I get no traction though because it's still one-tire-fire but that 550hp/tq clutch gets it all to the ground and I'm lovin' it! Still need to come down and get that roll bar (thanks for holding it! Don't let WarlordZ get it!! I'm coming I swear!!) Thanks guys I'll see what I can do once it gets above freezing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarlordZ Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I wasn't aware of any roll bars laying around. I'm not very observant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 I wasn't aware of any roll bars laying around. I'm not very observant. Exactly lol forget I mentioned it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Thanks Sunny and I'll try to power shift it and see where that takes me...it couldn't get any worse lol Camaro's and other TR6060's have bad 2/3 gear shifts and I knew this when I bought it but I can't shift it at nearly 6k then I have to get that fixed. LOL well thats not true. I've seen second gear go boom because someone power shifted it when the synchro was bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Maybe I will make a decision on this VLSD I have laying around by then. (don't know why I can't get my keyboard off italics). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) Ok I'll do some testing and see what I can do. I went with a 4an line from the master cylinder to the slave in the transmission. I wonder if a 3an would work better? I just figured or read somewhere that more flow was better and adjusted the nut on the pushrod connected to the clutch pedal mostly all the way out. And I didn't shim the ls1 t56 clutch any when installing into the tr6060. It could be fixed with one of these issues. But 1,4,5,6,R are all fine when shifting into them whenever I please. And yeah I'm semi- in the market for an lsd but wanting to fix my drivability first plus the roll bar. Edited January 28, 2014 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I think Sunny Z is your man for advice internal to the tranny. I don't think the size of the line matters. I think it only matters what happens at each end. I have a couple slave cylinder shims if you decide you need them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Many years ago I used a -4 an flex lines at my wheels for the brakes because I didn't know any better. When I swapped them out to -3, it shortened up my brake pedal throw by a very noticeable amount. I guess it took more fluid in the larger lines to move the pistons the same amount of distance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) Many years ago I used a -4 an flex lines at my wheels for the brakes because I didn't know any better. When I swapped them out to -3, it shortened up my brake pedal throw by a very noticeable amount. I guess it took more fluid in the larger lines to move the pistons the same amount of distance.Yeah that's what I'm thinking too. I just went off the inner diameter of the stock line running from the master to slave at the slave which is a hard line. And the fact that GM necks down the stock line on the tr6060's near the mc to make people granny shift and in-turn causes less wear and tear on the equipment but premature clutch wear, but that's not a warranty item. This was found out with using a pen micrometer on ls1tech or somewhere else I was researching. I'll pick one of those 3an lines up from speedway too. And shorter! 48" is wayyyyyyy too long. And parts are bought to go to -3AN now, and I wait until Feb 3... Oh and WarlordZ, sometimes when it grinds I wanna go built auto, turbo'd, drag slicks and no a/c. But I like to jam gears and have a/c (someday) too much to give it up! Edited January 29, 2014 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Well... I swapped out the 4an to 3an from the master to the slave and after bleeding for over an hour with my speed bleeder/refilling the reservoir and the clutch is actually softer. It will not even let me shift into any gear at all while running. Not running I can shift into any gear. Bigger mc and 4an line?? I'm moving backwards now and I don't get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) First, loosen all the clutch pedal linkage bump stoppers to make sure the pedal is getting full stroke and full return. Then try bleeding some more. This was the ticket last time I let my clutch master reservoir run dry. I always seem to forget this step. It takes more stroke and return to bleed the system when it is full of air than it does to release the clutch once you have all the air out. Once you have a firm pedal, you can go back and fine tune the clutch pedal stops for perfect engagement without excessive pedal movement. If I remember correctly, once I loosened all the pedal stops, it only took a few pumps to get all the air out. For some reason, I always forget to do this and I fight and fight and fight bleeding the clutch. I can get irrational and all red in the face fighting the DAMN clutch. I feel your pain. If that doesn't work: Bleeding the clutch master was/is the most painful part of this build for me. I think a lot of our pain is air in the master cylinder, so we can't generate flow in the line and slave adequately. I recently saw that Tilton now has small master cylinders with bleed ports on them-that is the one I will buy next time. Gentle bleeding with a mighty-vac with suction limited to 5-10 on the guage and the suction fitting shoved into the larger of the holes down in the bottom of the reservior with the strainer screen removed-this has been helpful. And, make sure that you are elevating your bleeder line so that air rises from the slave to your bleed port. If that doesn't work, put your wife's favorite bath towels all over the fender and engine compartment and put one of her Tupperware bowls under the master. Then get somebody to help you pump pedal while you "bench bleed" your master with the line removed. You put your finger over the line fitting port when the pedal is coming up and remove it when the pedal is coming down. Then quickly attach your line before the master reservoir can drain dry. Very messy. Get your assistant to push slowly on the pedal so you don't squirt all over things. And fully remove your finger-if you only partially remove it, you can create a nozzle effect and squirt high pressure fluid EVERYWHERE. A speed bleeder in the remote bleeder line helps a lot. My remote bleeder line has a speed bleeder, but I can also use zip-ties to position it inside the fluid reservoir so that I don't waste a lot of fluid. I don't think you need a larger MC. m1noel accomplished good clutch release with only a 3/4" MC. I have a 1" and it is STIFF. Edited February 4, 2014 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) Weird thing was that when I disconnected the line from the reservoir the rest of it didn't run out. It barely let a few drops come out. So the reservoir never got dry. The only thing that was dry was the new 3an line. The fluid i pumped out from bleeding was dirty after only 47 miles on it and speed bleeding it was easy and was pumping with no bubbles at all. I've got the 7/8" Tilton MC I believe, and it was a stiff clutch push with the stage 2 clutch and 4an line but now it is half that of what it was since the 3an line is installed. Edited February 4, 2014 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Dirty clutch fluid is part of the game with these inside-the-bellhousing clutch hydraulics. It doesn't seem to really hurt anything, but I flush my system a couple times a season. Once you have all the air out, flushing is no problem IF you keep your reservoir topped up. If you let the reservoir run dry, it's back to the damn drawing board trying to get the air out. If I can get the air out of mine, you for sure can get yours right. Get back on it tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Two words: Mity Vac Two more: Buy One Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Air bubble the size of Texas... I learned how to bleed it better after a few hours and the Tipton hotline of making sure my master cylinder wasn't bad. I'm gonna adjust the bump stops on the pedal and see if the 3an will work but right now I have a pretty firm pedal and synchros won't let me in so I'll adjust and if no good I'll swap back to 4an then and go from there but a mityvac is on the way soon. Thanks for the help guys. I got to feeling down on the manual problems I'm dealing with and was looking up built 4l60e/4l80e's and turbo setups last night after I couldn't get any pressure built up, and thinking about the thought of having to pull the tr6060 back out for a $200 slave/$1300 rebuild... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Don't give up! Read somewhere of my agony last year and I'm good to go now and all smiles. I had the same problems. 99.999% chance the whole problem is air. Limp it down here in 4th gear this weekend if you can't get it. I'm no gifted mechanic but maybe together plus a couple beers we can get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Ok so after a little time off from the z I got my parts in and installed a new rear main output shaft seal for the TR6060 and tightened up the Trans cooler lines and it doesn't leak anymore! So I drove to the mountains to hike with the fiancé and drove home after that 25 miles or so and it hasn't leaked a drop, finally! Also installed a new pioneer CD player that sounds pretty good too. Going to remove some natural weight reduction tonight, change the oil, top off the Trans & diff fluid, and put a few more miles on it to test it out, and the clutch is breaking in more every time I drive it. One flaw though, a stupid lifter is ticking intermittently now...only after I get on it hard above 3k rpms. After you cruise around below 2k rpm it will quiet down after a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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