z240 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Just have to ask. Is there oil in the engine? Not sure how easy new rings will ride/slide on a fresh DRY cylinder wall.... Check cylinder wall roundness and consistency top to bottom too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 I was thinking the same, either the engine was assembled too tight or if all specs are correct meaning mechanical parts - check the block for true roundness. Also I remember once reading their were different bearings needed for the V07 crank weather it comes from a auto or 5 speed, cross check that. Be sure to use lots of assembly lube. How easy is the setup to spin if you put a pulley and bolt in? I assumes you are just turning the crank on the engine stand by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotaorava Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 i was using normal engine oil for assembly would assembly lube make so much difference? you can turn the bottom end in the stand from the crank if you take VERY good grip with two hands...but its way more hard than my complete old l24 with plugs in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Is the head still on the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotaorava Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 not atm but there were no difference in turning when i took the head of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 If I was going to nail down the issue, I would take the head off and remove the caps from the crank and take the pistons out. Check to make sure the crank can spin freely with no issues. While there are no pistons in the engine I would check for roundness in ALL cylinder bores. Also check your connecting rods for straightness. Are you using ARP bolts on the rods? If all is good there then reassemble and really watch your tq values. If over tq'd the crank will be hard to spin. Once you are have it back together, give the crank a few spins - check to make sure you are not hitting the casting on the inside of the block. Was there any metal or shiny oil when you just pulled it apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Ok update i took piston rings off and put pistons and conrods back and torquet everything to spec...smooth and easy to turn piston ring cap is ok tho upper about 0.45 to 0.5mm second about 0.55 to 0.6mm dont understand how they could cause so much frigtion that my old l24 is easier to turn even with head and plugs in Doesn't this post imply that there might be too much taper in the bores? It turns free with no rings, but tightens up when rings are installed. Probably checking ring gap at the top of the bore. Gap closes when the pistons drop down the bore, due to taper. No pro, just read a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Doesn't this post imply that there might be too much taper in the bores? It turns free with no rings, but tightens up when rings are installed. Probably checking ring gap at the top of the bore. Gap closes when the pistons drop down the bore, due to taper. No pro, just read a lot. I was thinking the same, or that the rods are backwards. They have an offset on the big end but I don't think it's enough to lock up the crank. I think he just needs to build it and spin it after each step to find the bug, like he indicated in the post you quoted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotaorava Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 bit more update... bore is straight no taper...rods are oil hole in sparkplug side should be ok? tryied with plenty off redline assebly paste to bore and piston no difference could it be that oil ring is causing this...when you look at the KA24 oil rings when you install thin rings both side of the "oil ring" they wont go deep enough to the piston anymore?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotaorava Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 hhmm found that there are 2 different size rings for KA24 pistons oil ring height at 2.5mm and 2.8mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Interesting. I never knew that. When I did my 3.1 build I just used the NPR rings that came with the cast pistons not even thinking about it. Correct, the oil squirters need to be on the spark plug side of the block. The beam of the rod is offset on the big end to thrust the crank towards the flywheel I believe. I know in Healey's they're offset enough to cause the problem you describe if they're installed incorrectly. It sounds like you have found your problem, just trying to find how to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotaorava Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 well not really found it yet... but everything checks out and are in specs so only possibility is that my starters have seen better days...putting it back together now with new hd starter that have gear reduction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Have you ensured all bearing caps are properly oriented? A friend installed the rod caps backwards in relation to the rods and it seized the motor, destroyed the rod bearings in the process. I image the same can happen with cam and main bearing caps too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 That's true too. I can't remember if the notches on the caps/bearings are both on the same side or opposite sides. That would be a bitch if it was just a starter. I had that on my truck. Both the cables and the starter dated. Replaced both, cranked fine. They're cheap too. Crank it without spark plugs in. Crank it with spark plugs in but no wires on them. Crank it with wires on them. If your ignition is too far advanced it will act like a dead battery. Crank over once or twice really slow and then nothing because it is firing too soon. I had that problem with my truck when I was first getting it together. Had the ignition on a toggle switch so I could crank it without spark and while it still had some momentum, throw the toggle. Eventually I backed off the timing when it started to diesel after shut off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Have you ensured all bearing caps are properly oriented? A friend installed the rod caps backwards in relation to the rods and it seized the motor, destroyed the rod bearings in the process. I image the same can happen with cam and main bearing caps too. I was going to say the same. Make sure the rod caps are oriented correctly AND on the correct rod. Either mistake will seize the engine and/or destroy bearings and possibly make the rods go out of round from getting torqued down on the wrong rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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