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Rolling with the punches a 75 280Z v8 Refresh


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I have an excel sheet with part numbers, threading, quantities, and sizing for most of the suspension bolts. I'm working on adding torque specs to all of them but if you send me your email I can send you the file. I ordered the complete set (minus a few bolts nissan didn't have) through Courtesy Nissan. Came to like $75 with shipping.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not to much going on with the Z this week , but I have got some work done on my rear strut bar and am very happy with it so far. All that is left to do is get it all painted up and then put the rest of my car back together.  I also have been doing work on spindle pin replacements via the 5/8 bolt route and I finished that up this week too.

 

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0.900" cold roll steel bar

 

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Getting the 5/8 hole dead center

 

 

post-19246-0-96246100-1395436962_thumb.jpg came out good

 

post-19246-0-34005900-1395436961_thumb.jpg 3/8 rod end with weld bung

 

post-19246-0-48532200-1395436997_thumb.jpg  fits in the hole good

 

post-19246-0-38373100-1395437002_thumb.jpg  test fit in Z 

 

post-19246-0-97705100-1395437070_thumb.jpg more test bung welded in place

 

post-19246-0-16105500-1395437073_thumb.jpg  bung welded in place

 

post-19246-0-92385800-1395437074_thumb.jpg plates welded

 

post-19246-0-43706100-1395437076_thumb.jpgbar almost done

 

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5/8" spindle bolts

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Edited by hwvigo
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On the slotted spindle pins - is the slot wide enough to allow the bolt movement side-to-side?  The nut on one end is going to pull the bolt in and clamp things down until it stops on either the lock pin or the bolt head.  Just wondering if the slot is for anti-rotation alone or side-to-side location purpose, or both.

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In theory its to stop rotation of the pin and just like the stock one did. I just wanted to give this a try, I have test fitted it and it seemed to work well but I will keep everyone up to date on if it works out in the long run.

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Got a little work done this weekend, one rear spindle striped primed painted and all put back together. With lowering springs and 240z top hats. I just love the way parts look when they are all clean.

 

 

post-19246-0-31918200-1395690603_thumb.jpg before

 

post-19246-0-75758100-1395690602_thumb.jpg 240z top hats

 

post-19246-0-05238300-1395690604_thumb.jpg after all painted looking clean

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The weather has been beautiful for the past week but sadly I have had very little time to get work done on the car but I did get a few things done.  Got the rlca in place and all torque down, replaced the old fuel lines from tank to hard line and installed a fuel filter in line not 100% happy with it I want to fab up a bracket to mount it . but for now its k the old lines were so brittle they snapped off when I tugged on them crazy scary when I think I have been driving with them , and with further inspection found them to be the cause of the trash I have been getting in my pre carb filter. Also got the brake drums cleaned and painted along with getting the rear strut tower bar finished out and painted up and throwing a quick cote of cheap black on the exposed section of the gas tank for now till I have it refinished.  I am very happy with the outcome of the strut tower bar and have done a write up on it in the weld and fab area. And I found one of my rear Tokico to be blown and is being replaced with a KYB for now.

 

post-19246-0-33474300-1396623306_thumb.jpg Old fuel line

 

post-19246-0-34714600-1396623308_thumb.jpg new line with filter not loving the way I did it will change

 

post-19246-0-14274800-1396623309_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-60915000-1396623310_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-87275300-1396623311_thumb.jpg  More back in place getting so close

 

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post-19246-0-55724200-1396623362_thumb.jpg Fresh coat for the drums

 

post-19246-0-32164300-1396623363_thumb.jpg Cheap coat for the tank but it dose look better from the back  will be doing a full refresh on tank when I have time and money.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well this was a weekend of ups and down for the Z but let’s start with the positive. As mentioned in my last post I did not like the way I had tackled the fuel filter. I decided to build a holding bracket based off the original fuel pump  bracket , having one handy I made a cardboard template  to test the size and idea and it looked dead on so I found a piece of scrap plate from work that just happened to be the exact size I needed. After the metal was sourced I needed to find a way to tackle the lip on the filter so after some poking around in a scrap pile found a piece of delrin to use and a good mounting point and a capacitor holder to lock the filter in place with some rubber hose as a insulator and a few holes bends and bolts later I have a very nice mounting solution. Got it all painted up and installed with new lines and am much happier now.  After I finished up that little project I was set on getting the Z back on the road driving. So I got the sway bar on and the struts all put back together and back in the car. I had forgot how much of a PITA getting the spindle pins lined up is add new poly bushings and poof there goes 35 minutes of your life. All that aside I got the strut assembles back in place and bolted up, and am very happy I spent the time to clean and repaint all the components came out looking great. At this point I was very happy everything was just going together like it should, and then came the drive shaft and adaptor I went to put the adaptor on my diff and came to the realization that my sway bar was in the way. After looking at it all and romping through the r/t diff mount threads I found that this happens sometimes due to the es mount being to tall and couple that with me putting washers were they did not need to go and there is my problem. So this lead to the removal of the diff  with r/t mount  once more I believe I am coming very good at R&Ring the diff. So I pulled it and decided I could do a better job on mounting the adaptor plate out of the car bur I did not have my dial indicator with me and I only had 3/8 bolts to mount it and I wanted to do it right so the diff would need to wait a few days to be all finished and reinstalled. On the other hand all my car needed was the wheels put on to be a roller and I could see how it looks lowered in the back so the wheels got slapped on and the jack stand  removed  and the Z is on its own legs once more and I am one happy guy. The combo of the shorter top hats and lowering springs  lead to now only having 2” of wheel gap in the back with no gas and no diff in the car and I will need to roll my fenders a touch even though I am only running a 215/60/15. I rolled the car out of the garage and was able to do some much needed cleaning of my work space along. All and all not a bad weekend and I cannot wait to see how it looks lowered all around.

 

new fuel filter bracket post-19246-0-47606600-1397668682_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-49128300-1397668692_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-33809700-1397668700_thumb.jpg

 

and painted post-19246-0-48131100-1397668708_thumb.jpg

 

and installedpost-19246-0-98773900-1397668723_thumb.jpg

 

back on her own four feet post-19246-0-58139000-1397669436_thumb.jpegpost-19246-0-78450500-1397669387_thumb.jpegpost-19246-0-85015300-1397668731_thumb.jpegpost-19246-0-66846100-1397669362_thumb.jpegpost-19246-0-48407400-1397669370_thumb.jpeg 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Having a beautiful Z you can drive in the lovely spring weather is overrated right …..RIGHT. The diff is back in the car after spending a few day tracking down the right bolt to go with my diff adapter pate to diff that is and the modding them to fit the holes, along with grinding down my gm trans mount for the r/t mount ( wow that makes a mess) and making the choice to use the azc solid diff mount along with the r/t  style I had made I know its redundant but I was getting frustrated at this point I I knew if the acz mount fit the r/t was right so both it is for now. And it worked everything looks good my silly adapter plate clears the sway bar. So I bolted the half shafts up no problem and the the drive shaft and of course I was missing one drive shaft bolt and it happens to be a weird size bolt ((m10x1.0 x25mm with a 14 mm head ))  that I can no find using my best Google fu. So I moved on at this point the car is almost derivable all it need is the rear brakes bled and on the road. So you know what I did …. Pulled the front end apart and that is where I am at now official start of the front end refresh. Just got all my new parts in ball joints tie rod ends and rack boots , once aging I can’t wait to get it on the road. also got my 5 point installed and found some e-tape on the front sway bar to make up for wrong size front bushings.

 

If you guys could please help me track down a bolt this size it would much appreciate it 

 ((m10x1.0 x25mm with a 14 mm head)). 

 

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Edited by hwvigo
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Your local Nissan dealer might be ab;e to get them or Courtesy (the link).  Spendy.

 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearAxleDriveShaft/tabid/1730/Default.aspx

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/bolt-drive-p-353949.html

 

You should run solid mustache bar mounts (no rubber on the ends) with a solid front mount.  Otherwise the solid mount will take all of the load, while the mustache bar wings just float and do not much.  People have had the cross member metal fatigue and break with solid front mounts.

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Quick update right front all back together looks so much better. Did not like how faded the tail light bezel was so I plasit-diped it and it came out very nice like the look of plasti-pid on pieces like this one. I also pulled the big ugly rear bumper off not just got to get the bumper shocks off heard it can be a real PITA well that’s all till next time true believers!

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Well I half to say all the hard work and hours of prep and paint and putting on and taking back off and head aches and frustration were all worth it ever single second. There is no felling like climbing in you Z after 10 months down and driving it. now I just need to get the timing set right (( found my distributor was lose and after hard acceleration would did and not want to restart )) and she is good for a bit of summer fun. And I love the way it sits not low but not to low. Also did some work on my radiator over flow set up did not like the way it was run and my cheap over flow can needed some modding so it would not hold pressure and vacuum and cause my lower radiator hose to collapse. I missed this car!

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post-19246-0-31739000-1399994782_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-17379300-1399994784_thumb.jpg almost to low to reach the keypad to get in my apartment complex. 

 

post-19246-0-23583900-1399995038_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-57865700-1399995048_thumb.jpg before and after of over flow setup.

Edited by hwvigo
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Got some good pics of the Z this weekend after spending some time rubbing compounding and waxing it. Also made it out to a small local car show with one of the guys from OKZCC with his killer 350Z. and I found out I really need to roll my rear fenders I am killing my tires.post-19246-0-29669000-1400508843_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-40908700-1400508841_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-30148500-1400508840_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-25948000-1400508837_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-40748900-1400508842_thumb.jpgpost-19246-0-05789500-1400508846_thumb.jpg

post-19246-0-93735900-1400509223_thumb.jpg like  the way this one edited up 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am starting on the engine bay clean up and this is were it is at as of now.

post-19246-0-41874200-1401905365_thumb.jpg cluttered 

post-19246-0-80068300-1401905331_thumb.jpg ratty harness

post-19246-0-21965700-1401905431_thumb.png on the other hand my car did get some love on IG last week

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This should be fun and I know it will look better in the end!

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Ok I got some work done last night and so far so good.I started buy removing the A/C that has not worked in along time along with all brackets and the condenser and all piping vac bottle and vac solenoids.Then  striped the harness of all the old heat shielding it had and e-tape. I picked up some of the high temp resistant e-tape we use at my job along with some DEI goodies the aluminium heat reflect  tape along with the slip through heat sleeve. After e-taping every thing in the bay along with re routing some wires I set off to heat shield the harness were it passes by the rams horn manifold. I layed 3 layers of the reflect tape then cut and wrapped the sleeve around it then wrapped that in the reflect tape. Came out looking much better along with painting my brake booster it is looking much better but will be getting some more love soon if the weather lets me.

post-19246-0-57049400-1401991333_thumb.jpg old heat shield and exposed wires 

post-19246-0-05089800-1401991336_thumb.jpg striped and e_taped

post-19246-0-87450300-1401991338_thumb.jpg striped and e_taped

post-19246-0-10530700-1401991341_thumb.jpg drivers side minus a/c with cleaned up wires 

post-19246-0-96171000-1401991342_thumb.jpg no more vac bottle and solenoids 

post-19246-0-97411400-1401991344_thumb.jpg new heat shielding on

post-19246-0-00211700-1401991347_thumb.jpgnew heat shielding on

post-19246-0-71252100-1401991576_thumb.jpg nice gap that was not there to start 

post-19246-0-07692100-1401991349_thumb.jpg rusty booster 

post-19246-0-01132400-1401991351_thumb.jpg wet paint 

evolution of my bay and engine   

post-19246-0-65101100-1401992083_thumb.jpg in the beginning 

post-19246-0-44661300-1401992084_thumb.jpg just got it to OK

post-19246-0-30461400-1401992085_thumb.jpg new rad and air filter 

post-19246-0-49021600-1401992086_thumb.jpg some changes be still cluttered 

post-19246-0-13480600-1401992650_thumb.jpg as it is now much better still more change to come 

post-19246-0-50441200-1401992653_thumb.jpg phone pics sorry 

 

 

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Over the weekend I got the engine bay finished up cleaned and painted the valve covers and pulled the exhaust manifolds and painted them. Along with getting the car all cleaned up for IFO Tulsa. The only draw back of the weekend is IFO got canceled due to weather . But since i had spent a few hours cleaning the car for the event i took some more pics. I am finally ok with popping my hood now. I also got some good interior shots along with a good shot of the rear strut tower brace I made and the drivers seat is faded but fits me perfect got to love old school Recaro . Now its time to save for wheels tires and bigger brakes. 

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Edited by hwvigo
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