Phantom Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 Checked on it. Thanks. I'm still trying to opt for something that has the e-brake capability and the JSK doesn't. I notice MSA has rear brake set-ups that incorporate the e-brake but they look like they are the same 240SX/300ZX option I have on the car now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Tried Silvermine yet? I haven't paid too much attention, but I think they have a vented rear with e-brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 From all the reviews I have seen, the only rear brake kit worth having that has a parking brake is Silvermine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 I've emailed them. The one kit they have that says it incorporates the ebrake looks a lot like the one I already have. We'll see what the response is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 I gave up my e-brake in order to have a car that would stop at the track. I will admit that I miss a cable-operated parking brake. But, it stops now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 BIll, It was good to see you again at the driver's school, your car looked really good. As for your brakes, I have a similar system to what you want, in the rear I used Maxima calipers, they look like a 240SX unit but have bigger a piston which balances better with the 4-pot units you have in the front. An adjustable prop. valve will let you tune it to fit your style. I still have my e-brake. One thing I did to make modulation easier was put in a 1" diameter master cylinder, it requires more pedal pressure but is much easier to modulate. Here is my current setup: Springs: 350 front, 325 rear (i may go stiffer at some point in the future) Sway bars: MSA kit 1" front, 3/4" rear (I've tried running without a rear bar, didn't like the feel of it at all) Alignment: camber: -3* front, -2.25* rear caster: +6* toe: .2* out in the front, .3* in in the rear shocks: Koni single adjustable yellows, front 1 turn stiffer than the rear. tires: Hoosier A6, 275/45-16 all around (I ran 11.5x23.5-16 Hoosier slicks for our pre-season events). ride height: ~5.5" from frame rail to the ground (the arms slope down from the internal pickup point to the hub) 3:54:1 diff ratio, clutch type LSD with custom 300ZX CV joint axles. I also added power steering. In the past I was never able to adjust the rear toe so the car was tail happy and over steered most of the time. I installed adjustable arms front and rear and had it aligned to match John Coffee's recommended setup. Right now the car has a slight understeer when power is applied and it hooks REALLY well exiting corners. I'll probably soften the front shocks a little to reduce the understeer but for now the car is doing great. BTW: My co-driver and I both set faster raw times than a Corvette C6 ZR1 being driven by one of our better local drivers at our first 2 pre-season events. We would have repeated in the 3rd pre-season event if we hadn't corded the clapped out set of Hoosier slicks we were running. Basically we took the raw fast time of day 1st and 2nd spots in my Z. The change that made the biggest difference was the rear toe in, at least that's what I think made the biggest difference. I look forward to seeing you down here in the Tri-Cities again soon, our next event is the weekend of Apr 12,13. You should also try to get over to Spokane for one of their events, the surface there has tons of grip, way better than at Tri-City Raceway where we held the school you attended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Ken, Yes - really enjoyed the day in Benton City. Don't know when the car will see a track again. Waiting to see how much the various governments leave me after tax season is over to see what I can spend on the car. I bypassed my heater yesterday to stop the drip-drip in the cockpit but the drivetrain still has an issue somewhere. I noticed it has some slop when lifting off the throttle and then hitting it again. Could be fairly normal or another indication of something going south. It's the noise & vibration that really has me going. I emailed Silvermine and their stage 4 rear brake kit retains the e-brake option and uses a single piston caliper that's a whopping 46mm in diameter. First thing I need to do is get the adjustable proportioning valve installed. After that can look at the brake upgrade. Adjustable LCA's in the front and back and adjustable TC rods in the front would give me all the camber/caster/toe adjustment I should need if I decide to go that way. The problem always comes back to the fact, though, that the car is primarily a daily driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Wheel man-can you fit the 275/45/16s in front without flares or trimming the fender? Especially considering the 6 of caster? What width wheel is that on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 RebekahsZ, No I can't, I've trimmed the fenders (both front and rear) and run ZG flares. With +6* caster I had to trim the front of the wheel wells to clear the outside edge of the tires when turning to full lock. I'm running 9.5" rims in the front and 10" in the rear, don't know what the offsets are but I run a 1" spacer in the rear so the rims will clear the strut tube. I guess I should link a picture of the car, here is an older one but the car still looks basically like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Thanks for the feedback. I've been looking at Hoosier's fitment guide and noticed that the 275/16 and the 275/17 have about the same diameter and width, so there is no real fitment advantage to the 16 over the 17. I'm just not ready to cut my fronts. I autocross less often than monthly, and those fenders are so pretty in stock form. Beautiful car-thanks for the advice and experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Nigel, an HBZ member, has developed his own rear brake kit. The price is great and performance should be excellent, I think his thread is in the Vendors section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Brake are easy, just need to get the setup balanced correctly, 1" master cylinder, adjustable prop valve and bigger rears. I have AZC 12.2" on the front and 12" on the rear and I can outbrake most cars I meet. Don't go with the silvermine kit, size is good but they mount the wrong way and handbrake cable doesn't work well from what I hear. If there is anther run on the below kit, go for that, that's my setup and I can't fault it, balances out the front setup perfectly and it has a strong parking brake. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113199-yet-another-rear-drum-to-disk-conversion-option/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 Nigel, an HBZ member, has developed his own rear brake kit. The price is great and performance should be excellent, I think his thread is in the Vendors section.Looked at his kit and it looks very attractive. I'm not ready to jump just yet as I have so many other things to sort out first. Had a panic stop yesterday - woman pulled out in front of me and I ended up sliding to a stop. Noticed that all the blue smoke seemed to be coming from the left front at the time. I hope that was the result of a crosswind blowing the passenger side smoke under the car but I'm not counting on it. I need to double check everything in that brake system and get it as balanced left-right and front-rear as I can before I spring for another rear set-up. Adding good stuff to a bad set-up just ends up with a more expensive bad set-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logr Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Not sure if it matters to you but for the "Street Tire" pax in the SCCA rules, you will need 200tw or greater next year. The tires will last more than a year so thought I would bring it up. R1R's are 140tw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) Guess I need to wear out my Dunlops Direzzas. They are 160tw. That gives me a goal for the next year. Edited April 15, 2014 by Phantom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmagno Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Check out the suspension FAQ ....for sway bars I think the prime choice is S/T 52095 it's for 70-73 but the preferred kit for all s30s......i also have that same spring/shock setup.....what spring rates are you using?This is larger at 1 1/8 for the front and fits the 240z. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stq-50100/overview/year/1976/make/nissan/model/280z Use this for the rear. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stq-51075/overview/year/1973/make/nissan/model/240z Edited May 8, 2014 by Gmagno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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