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AAR deleted, Heres how I controll idle

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My AAR (air regulator) stopped working giving me a fluctuating idle and after trying to repair it and failing I decided to scrap it. As it is I have no AAC EGR or VCM controlling my idle. The AAR was the only thing doing so. Without it my car would not idle and die when started. Instead of adjusting the throttleplate screw and messing with the TPS I came up with another idea to controll idle. I put a ball valve where the old AAR went and adjust the idle by allowing more or less air into the thottlebody by opening or closing the valve. Works like a charm! I have it set to idle at 1000 rpm and left it at that. Just another option to keep em running!


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Euro Turbo Cars do not have an AAR, they use the same Idle Speed Screw that the NA cars use.... It's what I did with mine.


Alternately, if you hook the AAR directly to manifold vacuum, it seems to give great anti-stall on drop-throttle. Had one out there since the late 90's set up like that.


If you have a replacement AAR, or one from a Z31 (they are identical) there is a small screw and locknut which can be used to hold the AAR Pintle open a set amount to prevent stalls. The originals did not have that, it was incorporated into the Z31 AAR, and was used on later replacement 280ZX AAR's Get the pintile high, then back the screw out until the idle comes down where you want it, and lock it down.


The Fast-Idle AAC I replaced with a simple solenoid and calibrated bleed. This is how Suzuki does it for their fast-idle and Air Conditioner idle-up. It's easily hooked into your AC Clutch line to bump up the idle when it engages.


More options...  :D

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