loudmouth280zx Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Hi I have a 1979 280zx 2+2 The question is what parts do i need to turbo its now N/a Things I have done: Six puck race clutch Ported intake manifold Custom wizco forged pistons Kinetics head gasket 2X welbo fuel pump Max speeding rods froged H beams 1000cc injectors hive o motorsports I plan on hoping someone here can point me in the right way because i at the stage were ecu choice Or any other parts list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 I would get megasquirt for engine management. 280 turbo exhaust manifold. Intercooler and plumbing. Your choice on turbo. Stock to wild that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 1000cc injectors? Planning on a 1200HP L-Series? You will need more than that to use those injectors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 There is plenty of info on this site about what parts you need for a turbo build, Take your time, save and read up on a few posts. Enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudmouth280zx Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Thanks to all if you guys want the six puck clutch vid is on u tube nothing special. Also install vids the block is at Midway mechine shop in salinas ca re decked honed cleaned magna fluxed new cam 268 and polished crank . Dose anyone have a used mega sqirt i can buy for this kind of biuld . Or what version of mega sqirt do i buy.i have a laptop too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudmouth280zx Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Also have ARP STUDS EVERYTHING Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger280zx Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Who ported the intake and head? What trans is this 6 puck hooking up to? Personally my trans is keeping my engine parts list sane, because I know other areas of the car need attention first. Seeing as you can turn ours to dust with just one of those fuel pumps and half the injector, I would suggest that be you next exercise. Gear box choices are well documented here. After that get an r200 with turbo cv's at the very minimum. That just about covers getting the power to the hub, from there what happens to your chassis when the wheels start to grab (assuming appropriate wheel/tire) can be addressed with chassis bracing and suspension componentry- which also can be found here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudmouth280zx Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Thanks for info an the trans is the stock one came with car not sure how to id it an im buying a lsd diff because i have a r200 housing. I am also welding braces an new passager floor an rail. Would like to know if the is an easier way to fix my three ed gear because it grinds only if u rev up passed 3800 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Hi I have a 1979 280zx 2+2 The question is what parts do i need to turbo its now N/a Things I have done: Six puck race clutch Ported intake manifold Custom wizco forged pistons Kinetics head gasket 2X welbo fuel pump Max speeding rods froged H beams 1000cc injectors hive o motorsports Would like to know if the is an easier way to fix my three ed gear because it grinds only if u rev up passed 3800 You mean this engine runs now? Or do you have a stock engine and a bunch of parts? Or are you just using some of those parts? 3rd gear grind is pretty common on the old transmissions. Redline MT90 fixed one of mine that did that. There are a couple of good threads here about turboing - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ and there's a whole sub-forum on Megasquirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudmouth280zx Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Some of the parts are installed but the block,head,rods,everthing is at mechine shop in salinas ca, getting work done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Hol' on a second.....are the pistons dished or flattop? You stated you have a custom grind cam - is it specifically a turbo grind - cuz they are profiled completely different than NA cams. 1000cc injectors - you're gonna have a fun time getting that car to idle properly. You'd do well to drop down to 550's, which are good for probably 450+ to the wheels - which is where Roger's comment comes in. You'll need a new transmission. Stock FS5W71 box can handle maybe 300 (if you baby it) - 250 if you dog it. What are your goals - that's the first question to ask before ANY motor build.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 I have to disagree about na cams and turbo cam being different. A good turbo doesn't make much back pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Has nothing to do with backpressure. It's about duration and ramp angle. They are totally different grinds. Yes - a NA cam will work on a turbo car, but to get the most efficiency out of the turbo - you don't need much lift like an NA cam - you want the longer duration, so the valve stays open longer and the turbo has more time to stuff more air in the cylinder. My turbo cam looks quite weird sitting next to a NA cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Lift is lift...it gives breathing on the top end. Opening point of the valves...that's where the differentiation in turbo cams and NA cams will come from. Isky will put in as much lift as you can tolerate on most applications...just remember you should be aware of what your port flows, and at what lift. It makes NO sense to get a cam that lifts to 660" when port flow stops increasing at 460". You want a ramp to get the valve to 460" as soon as possible, and duration to maximize it for your desired power goals, and opening/closing events to minimize reversion. You will see most 'Street Grinds' advertised for NA 'Stage 1' add lift from stock to 460/470" the next step is adding 10-20 degrees duration. Most don't radically alter opening events and don't alter overlap appreciably so they still work fine as turbo cams. Max power? No, not really.... But better than any stock grind. You can get higher performance, more overlap (inevitable as duration increases) and lower idle vacuums...that is a big step and well over 400hp at that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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