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Hello I have been a thread stalker but now I am on the hunt for a z I have looked at a 240 and a 280. I have a few questions about each.

 

http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/4845950356.html

 

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/ctd/4890810394.html

 

1 I would like to do a v8 swap and was wondering if the frame in the 240z is stiff enough?

 

2. I would like to drive it till I get and build a motor and trans will the 280z be better because of it being fuel injected?

 

I am just wanting a little help and knowledge and any insight people may have. Also what would be a price range?

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I have been a thread stalker...

 

1 I would like to do a v8 swap and was wondering if the frame in the 240z is stiff enough?  It depends - on how much power the V8 produces and what you intend to do with that power.

 

2. I would like to drive it till I get and build a motor and trans will the 280z be better because of it being fuel injected?  It depends - on how much you know about EFI versus how much you know about carbs.

 

I am just wanting a little help and knowledge and any insight people may have. Also what would be a price range? It depends - on the quality of the car you're looking at and what you intend to do with it.

 

You obviously haven't been stalking for long.

Edited by NewZed
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Suggestions:

  • If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times.
  • Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car.
  • Download electrical schematics for your car.  PDFs are easier to read than those found in books.
  • Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching.
  • Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.
  • Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost.
  • Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!
  • Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
  • Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
  • Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions.
  • Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k.
  • Read the new member FAQs.

 

Useful Links:

http://zhome.com/

http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/index

http://www.zcarparts.com/

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm

http://www.arizonazcar.com/

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Suggestions:

 

  • If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times.
  • Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car.
  • Download electrical schematics for your car.  PDFs are easier to read than those found in books.
  • Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching.
  • Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.
  • Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost.
  • Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!
  • Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
  • Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
  • Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions.
  • Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k.
  • Read the new member FAQs.
 

Useful Links:

http://zhome.com/

http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/index

http://www.zcarparts.com/

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm

http://www.arizonazcar.com/

 

Thank you I will start to look thru all of the links as well as buy some new reading material.

 

I know the picture and description are bad in the links but any opinion on them? The 280z has a lot more rust and the frame rails are really bad so i know they will need to be replaced. The 240z has a little rust in the front wheelwell on the frame were that metal doubler is and that is about it but the brake lights are not working and the speedometer will start to bounce dramatically as I would gain any speed.

 

I have looked at both these cars and I would be paying less then what that are asking.

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I would be cautious about both of those cars.  They are asking quite a bit, but either one could be hiding major rust issues.  If the rust is minimal, the asking prices are reasonable, so thoroughly check underneath on the frame rails and the floors beneath the carpeting.  When I bought my 1978 back in 1990, it was the only one I found with solid rails even though it had rust showing like the 1976 you posted.  All the others I looked at actually looked like they had good fenders and rockers, but were crumbling underneath.

 

And I'm in Colorado too.

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Freak - big question on the V8 swap is how much HP do you want to develop?  If you put in a regular SBC then you'll probably be fine with either car.  If you put something in putting over 400 HP to the rear wheels then both will need reenforcing.  My 280Z with a 325 RWHP LS1 has front and rear strut tower supports and a 4-pt roll bar.  It still flexes a bit. My son has a 240Z with Bad Dog frame rails and a 380 RWHP LS1.  His car flexes like crazy.  He's planning on the strut tower supports and a roll bar/cage in the future.

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Freak - big question on the V8 swap is how much HP do you want to develop?  If you put in a regular SBC then you'll probably be fine with either car.  If you put something in putting over 400 HP to the rear wheels then both will need reenforcing.  My 280Z with a 325 RWHP LS1 has front and rear strut tower supports and a 4-pt roll bar.  It still flexes a bit. My son has a 240Z with Bad Dog frame rails and a 380 RWHP LS1.  His car flexes like crazy.  He's planning on the strut tower supports and a roll bar/cage in the future.

For curiosity only, not dispute, what are the signs of flex that you see?  Stress cracks, wheel hop, shattering glass, ...?  And do you know what is flexing?  The cars are big, squarish tin cans so flex probably happens in multiple areas.  If one area flexes its counterpart has to also.

 

It's been discussed pretty heavily but always good to get a new view.

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