1miata Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Congratufreakinlations. So whats your closing statements, in regards to the CX mounting kit including headers and exhaust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Final review once I drive it and race it.... Midterm review: Kit itself is well put together, and pretty easy to intall.... I'm a decent shade tree mechanic and I know my way around Z's since I've had 5. Kit came with no instructions but it's pretty self explanatory if you take your time, measure 5X and cut/install once. I swaped hardware for grade 8 as the CX stuff was a little suspect IMO. Welds are nice but not perfect, no leaks in the headers and fit really well. a bit of intall advice, mount the passenger header and both the complete CX motor mounts onto the block and trans mount to tranny. in my case, the mounts dropped right onto the Z X-member uprights and tranny holes in the Z. Again, I spent an 1 hour of measuring and planning with a 20 mins to intall..... I would buy it again knowing what I know and how well it went so far.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 First Congrats, major Congrats, you earned them. Second, how loud is it? Third, did the exhaust pretty much fit without too much hassle? You are miles ahead of me. I have a ton of parts and am working on getting the extra 8.8 IRS I had installed in the car. But seriously Congratulations. Lots of work! Cheers Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 super loud right now... I haven't completed the exhaust after the y-pipe yet, LOL. I'm having that done at a shop.... I hope to have it tucked up tighter than the CX version and I want the ability to remove, rotate for fit or change out the muffler (the CX muffler is fixed). The long tubes to Y pipe fit perfect though and the O2 sensors are located in a great spot. Can't wait to see your build Richard, you do very nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Here is the shot of where I tapped for my steam vent..... I'm going to try and use the port on the passenger side head for water temp sending unit... JTR has a 1/2 and 3/8 NPT adapter for the Datsun sending unit, will either of these fit in that port? Thanks guys. What brass elbow and size tubing did you have to use for the steam vent? I like the way it looks and turned out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fullauto Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Congrats !!!!! A true accomplishment!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fullauto Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Btw how did you run your serpintine belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Fullauto- I'm looking for a pic for you on the belt..... I just measured the orgianl route minus the AC and went through a bunch of belts at the part store until I found the right length. Mafia- I don't remember the fitting size.... I just grabbed what looked right in my head, LOL. Midterm impression updates- Got a chance to drive it some this weekend, not real hard, but moderate pace. The car is freakishly fast, pulls very hard and just never runs out with very long legs. The shift pin clears the center consol without modification. The LSD 3:70 I swapped in is perfect IMO. I had an exhaust leak around one of the V band connections from the header but a simple readjust and retightening solved that. Oil leak at the oil pressure adapter...... Made a gasket and its now dry as a bone... should have made a gasket the first time. Gas gauge reads backwords (empty reads full, etc), but I put in 3 gals and it didn't come off the F mark..... is it possible I have the wires backward on the sender????? Next up is to finish the exhasut, I hope to have it to a shop Tues afternoon. I used some marine plywood for now to cover the spare tire hole over the fuel cell..... I will have a custom aluminum plate made soon with an access hatch for filling when i have some extra cash. Guages work minus tach and speedo. I was going to keep it all dastun but now I'm on the fence.... I can swap to Autometer for about the price of the Datsun conversion (suggestions welcome) All in all , no regrets. This is going to be the most fun I have in a car for quite some time.. Thanks to all in the Hybrid family for support and help along the way. I will post more pics and video along the way. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 I kept the Datsun gauges but installed white face conversions and the higher wattage dash bulbs from Motorsport Auto and removed the green lenses. If you go with Autometer you'll not have all your gauges on the dash (Datsun has two split gauges) and you'll have to find another location for the turn signal indicators. If you stay with Datsun gauges you'll have to either get a CableX translator to drive your cable driven Datsun speedometer or you'll have to change the transmission over to a mechanical output. I went with the CableX and have had no issues with it in 12 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 I was going to keep the split gauges and just replace the speedo and tach....... CableX is so freaking much$$$$ for what it is, it's hard to choke down. Who did you use, or how did you convert your tach to work with the LS1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 (edited) Trackzspeed, I'm on the fence just like you with the gauges. What needs to be done at the shop to finish the exhaust? Edited November 2, 2015 by Stock Car Mafia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Y pipe back. I want the option to choose my muffler and CX didn't offer that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 You should post up a before and after vid of the exhaust. I'm curious in how it sounds! I have yet to purchase a mount/header kit and am leaning towards hawks third gen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Waiting for some youtube vids as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I was going to keep the split gauges and just replace the speedo and tach....... CableX is so freaking much$$$$ for what it is, it's hard to choke down. Who did you use, or how did you convert your tach to work with the LS1? My car was the JCI development car so Johns Cars did the tach conversion.j I've seen some other guys here on the site that used someone else. I just know John. I know what you mean about the $$. These cars can get really expensive to do it right - no matter which way you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I went with speedhut's gauges for speedo and tach. Honestly love them and they cost about as much as the damn cableX cost. As for the others? You generally don't need a clock because aftermarket radios have them... or voltage/amps. Simple oil pressure and water temp and fuel level is all that is really needed. However I have a bluetooth obd2 reader so that I can see what my voltage is if I ever need to while on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I went with speedhut's gauges for speedo and tach. Honestly love them and they cost about as much as the damn cableX cost. As for the others? You generally don't need a clock because aftermarket radios have them... or voltage/amps. Simple oil pressure and water temp and fuel level is all that is really needed. However I have a bluetooth obd2 reader so that I can see what my voltage is if I ever need to while on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I went with speedhut's gauges for speedo and tach. Honestly love them and they cost about as much as the damn cableX cost. As for the others? You generally don't need a clock because aftermarket radios have them... or voltage/amps. Simple oil pressure and water temp and fuel level is all that is really needed. However I have a bluetooth obd2 reader so that I can see what my voltage is if I ever need to while on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 I looked at the speedhut too..... just not clear on what the ideal size is for speedo and tach. What did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I went with 4.5in for the 2 main ones, however they still require the old bezel of the old gauges. Not sure if the 5.5 ones would fit without that? I simply just took the 3 screws out of the old black scoops and removed the old gauge and then used tubing to press fit the gauges in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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