RebekahsZ Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 If your name is Brandon, I sent you some videos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 (edited) Grinding the axle doesn't gain you very much at all. I showed pictures of the axle in both positions in this other thread. Flipping the cage looks impressive, but the axle sticks out about as far as the cage does, and although I don't have a tape measure in the pics on this thread, but the specs on the old M2 replacements were about .220" from the end of the shaft to the snap ring groove. So you take 1/8" off the axle and you get maybe 3/16" total shorter if you're lucky. When I measured, the CV was too long by something like 3/8" and 1/2". More than you could get by flipping cages and grinding the axles. Who knows with the variance in the cars, the LCAs, bushings, etc what kind of clearance your car really has, but to check you really should remove the spring and move the suspension through it's motion by hand to feel if the CV binds. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105657-300-zx-turbo-cv-shaft-disassembly-and-reassembly/ Here is another old thread I found in looking for the disassembly thread. Problems included handling issues and wiping out the pinion by side loading the carrier. I don't remember what mayolives issue was and couldn't find his thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/65177-300zxt-cv-issue/ Edited July 6, 2015 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branut89 Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 (edited) Sorry for the long delay guys but I've been out of town. I was able to get under the car and get some pictures to see if I am having any fitment issues. The attached images show the space between my CV adapter and my axle cup. The image that has the greater gap is the passenger side and the image with the smaller gap is the driver side. Keep in mind I have the axle firmly pressed in towards the diff when these pics were taken, the axle was NOT extended. I also attached some images of the angle of the axle on both sides. After talking with Keith it seems that the clunk at shifting I am getting may be inevitable... however the rotational clicking swooshing is still a concern. Does the placement and spaces in the pictures look average or should I still flip the cage on the driver side? Do you see any fitment issues that could be causing any odd noises. Thanks for all your input. Edited July 12, 2015 by branut89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Jack the car up in the air and let the axles come to full droop. If you can compress them enough to get them in and out at full droop, you shouldn't have an axle binding at normal ride heights-the axles have to get longer the lower the car sits. Rotational clicking may be that you've broken the cage in the axle-I did it with only 180HP on a used set of Z31T CV axles. Also could be that they need to be re-packed with grease. The shift-clunking is probably the differential bolts going through the mustache bar. I have replaced/retorqued/overtorqued/yamabonded the damn things into place and my clunk goes away for about a week...then slowly comes back as the two big studs start whacking around in the mustache bar. Next fix is a pair of tubular bushings to make the stud shanks a press fit into the mustache bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 I'd still flip the cages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Sure. It's a way to kill a couple hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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