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Ok, so I can see the finish line from a very long journey, that is my 1973 RB 240Z. I have a CLSD from an 1989 Z31T with the CV shafts. I'm trying to get the CV axles bolted into my car but I have been finding out that these adapter options for the CV adapter conversion are PRICEY!!! Especially, when you factor in the price for having to get the 27 spline axles from a 280Z (getting harder to find) and the Modern-Motorsport option. Plus, I don't know why NOBODY developed and adapter for the stock 240Z 25 spline stub axles to just bolt to the Z31T CV axles!!!! People keep saying that it was for strength but I don't buy that. They are not much thicker, and you've only gained just 2 splines. For a stock RB, I'm sure the 25 spline will hold up just fine. I'm just trying to get my CV's under the car. Looking for the welded plate to stock flange option so that I can get my car back on the road. I've seen pictures on Google from what Modern-Motorsports "used" to do, but I need better specs for the plate(steal). I found specs for a plate for the 280ZXT CV's, but I cant figure out why no one has done this for the Z31T CV axles. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place... Anyone have any answers??? Thanks for any and all help you give.

I purchased a 240z that had a r200 swap conversion installed including the CV's and Stub axles. I had also previously purchased an r200 CLSD and CV shafts. I went ahead and swapped in the CLSD I have known about binding issues especially in the 240's but when I measured the CV axles from the open diff compared to the CLSD they were the same size. There for i figured my car would not have binding issues. I had Previously heard a clunk and bind but i thought this was due to some play in the transverse link. Now that I've done more research I've discovered that my dumb ass should have purchased shorter shafts and not placed the original z31 CV's which was the clunk caused by axle wrap and bind. Ive drove about 50 miles on the CLSD and have started to hear a rotational clicking/ticking/clunk(Not Good as I know and once again I am a dumb ass for this) I heard the noise after heavy driving and putting real stress on the rear end. This leaves me with 3 questions: 1. Did I destroy the R200 CLSD? (I did have it inspected previously and everything looked great) 2. Should I bother with buying the shortened shafts, is the noise an internal differential problem? 3. If the diff is fine where has the majority of the damage inquired. What are your thoughts I am not sure what to do as I may have destroyed this diff. Please let me know what you all think. Thank you your inout is appreciated.

looking for a clsd 3.7 or 3.5 diff from a 84'-89' 300zx .

I have done my research on this topic and i hate to start another thread but i am having a hard time finding a definitive answer to my question, specifically for my 78. Here it goes: I know that the r200 clsd out of the 87-89 turbo z31 models will swap into an s30 with the z31 billet adapters, it seems like it is a tight fit I would like to avoid axel wrap issues. I have read and heard several different scenarios to get them to properly fit. The first scenario that ive heard is that if you flip the cages with the z31 billet adapters the r200 will fit in. For the second scenario I have also heard that in some cases if you flip the cages and use two passenger axels (which are the longer axels) then the axel mates up perfectly. The third scenario is the simplest and i hope it works for me. I have read on a few different threads scattered through out the intra-web that since my 78 s30 already has a r200 differential that i wont have to flip cages or swap axels to get it to fit. It seems like every thread is different; some are saying that it works best if you only flip one cage and not the other, some say flip both, and others say swap out the drivers axel and don't/do flip both cages. Any advice would greatly be appreciated obviously i would like to get it right the first time with as little head ache as possible, any advice would be greatly appreciated especially if you have done this swap on a 78 s30 with the pre existing r200. I am planning on running an l28et with a fs5r30a so having the cv axles is crucial. Thanks y'all.

OK, I just want to be clear I looked around already, but I've found a lot of conflicting information on the subject. I want to swap the R200 open diff on my 280z for the CLSD from the 88 Z31. I already have the new diff, but I haven't gotten a chance to try and install it yet. So far I've gathered that this is a bolt on swap and the ONLY thing I have to do is swap the driveshaft companion flange. Now, Some people say that I need to take off the finned cover and put my old non-finned cover on. I'd like to retain the finned cover so my diff won't overheat. Is there a bolt-on friendly (read: no welding) way of doing this? z31 mustache bar or something? Is this even a real problem? Thanks guys.