Boy from Oz Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) The installation of a Vintage Air a/c system has been completed on my S30 and I'm just about to connect the heater hoses. I've now been told that I should use the GM hose 'loop' configuration which blocks off flow to and from the heater core and recirculates the hot water back to the pump. I am more familiar with a system which merely blocks off the flow of hot water to the heater core in the cabin, which is what the Vintage Air valve, supplied in the kit, does. As I understand it, heat can conduct its way up the heater outflow hose into the heater core and add an extra load on the a/c to provide a cool cabin temperature and the GM 'loop' system eliminates this. Any thoughts or experiences with this supposed issue? Thanks Edited October 26, 2015 by Boy from Oz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPhotographer06 Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-31971-Original-Equipment-Heater/dp/B000C9DA7E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) I actually want to use the heater so blocking off at the pump is not an option. Jay, I retained the valve from the donor car (see attached) but like the replacement valves it is vacuum operated whereas the the Vintage Air valve is electronic. What I really want to know is whether blocking both inflow and outflow to the heater core, and creating a return loop, critical in LS1 systems? Edited October 26, 2015 by Boy from Oz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPhotographer06 Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 I'm not sure that I'm following what your asking.. searching for normal practices to follow?I think the ball is in you court to decide which you prefer. If the vintage air unit is like the one youve diagramed and is electronically controlled, I dont see a problem in using it. Heatercore radient heat will possibly affect your interior temp since the core is in the same unit.. but, you control the temperature in the car. Its not an auto setting or creating more of a load if its hot in the car.So, i'd run with what youve got pictured IMO. sorry if i'm still not on the same track with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) I'm hearing this... Summer time- use a short piece of heater hose and redirect the outlet and inlet from the waterpump to itself and loop it (not plug it completely). This gets rid of heat creeping through the hoses. Insulate the firewall. Winter time- reconnect the heater hoses to the firewall so you can have heat. Problem solved The only time this happened to me was because the heater control valve didn't work and was stuck wide open. Couldn't get the air below 55ish out the vents. Put a vise grip on one of the heater hoses and bam 30 degree air. It was July or August and it worked great! Edited October 26, 2015 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathaninwa Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) edited for correction. Brain lapse! Thinking about this more. I'm sure you could block off flow. The thermostat is always in a 100% open state weather it's closed to the radiator and looping internally or open to radiator and blocked internally, or somewhere in the middle. As long as there is a bleeder hole on the top side of it Edited October 26, 2015 by nathaninwa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 I'm sure you could use some manual valves and plumb it in the engine bay to do the same thing, just have to open it in winter and close it in summer. Mine is mounted inside the cabin close to the firewall, and if it has been a problem, I haven't noticed. My vintage air is cold enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) I'm sure you could use some manual valves and plumb it in the engine bay to do the same thing, just have to open it in winter and close it in summer. Mine is mounted inside the cabin close to the firewall, and if it has been a problem, I haven't noticed. My vintage air is cold enough. Yes, there is such a valve (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200989576801?ul_noapp=true). Is this what you used or did you simply install the Vintage Air valve to blocks off (restricts) the inward flow to the heater core? Thanks. Edited October 26, 2015 by Boy from Oz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 There is an electronic version of the same set up. It turns wide open with 12V and recirculates with 0. We use them on the 4.6L ford engines as they MUST have flow across the heads. I do not have the part number handy but most parts stores should be able to help you. When I showed up with a PN my guy asked why do you want the expensive one, this is a lot less and does the same thing. 25 bucks or so if I remember right. Might have been from a Ford Ranger. HTH, R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 If I understand the original question you're asking whether to use a basic 2-way (open-closed) valve or a 3-way (open-bypass back to source) valve. Either will work but I personally prefer the simper 2-way valve. It stops flow when no heat is required rather than redirecting the flow back the the engine. The stock Z valve is a 2-way valve. That is the valve I'm using with the heating system in my LS1 280Z. Works just like it did with the L28 in the car. Is it possible that you're over thinking the installation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 I think some engines require some flow through there, so on those you can't just block it off. Not sure if the LS does or not. I thought about putting the VA heater valve under the hood as gm had theirs, but at that point I was getting tired of working on the car and just wanted to finish it up to drive it. If it ever fails down the line I will look at putting it under the hood then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathaninwa Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 The LS is not one of them engines running the stock style thermostst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Evidently the LS1 doesn't need continual water flow through the heater lines as mine has the stock Z heater control valve that stops flow. I've driven it 38k miles, most of it in hot Texas weather, and have never had an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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