ZMONSTR Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 (edited) Hello, New to me 260z has a very bumpy ride. I alot of the rubber bushings have been replace with polyurathanes, which seem to be very stiff. I know the total set up, shocks, springs, bushings and all, have less that 650hrs use on them over 8yrs. (hour meter in car). Resto was done in 2007. I am looking to make the z drive just a bit smother with less jolts and jars... Any thoughts on bushings, socks and springs? Currently the car is very low, but dont have any wheel rubbing at all., Edited November 2, 2015 by ZMONSTR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Determine what parts you're running. Stock springs, cut stock springs, lowering springs (brand), "coilovers", shocks (dampers, struts), etc. All your picture shows is a car and some tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 It is a nice-looking car though. Too bad the photographer couldn't fit the whole thing in the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCchris Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Nice looking car! The suspension has been modified so look to see if you are "riding on the bump stops" or, do you have enough compression travel before something bottoms out causing the bumpy ride? chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMONSTR Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 The car feels like it has been bottoming out, but no thud or anything. The springs and shocks dont have a name at all, and appear to be old. Maybe original that were cut down? Here are some more pics. Nothing specifically of the shocks..yet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMONSTR Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 The car feels like it has been bottoming out, but no thud or anything. The springs and shocks dont have a name at all, and appear to be old. Maybe original that were cut down? Here are some more pics. Nothing specifically of the shocks..yet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 The springs aren't stock size, whatever they are. They're not preloaded like the stock length factory springs would be, thye're hanging free with the car lifted. They've been painted orange so hard to tell what they are. Stock is black, Tokicos are red, MSA's are blue...etc. Scratch the orange and see what's underneath. Look at the end of the spring coil to see if it's a clean cut, pinched off like a factory cut, or a hack job. You could probably get set of stock springs, or lowering springs, and a set of new KYB shocks and be better off. You also have anti-sway bars front and back, which will firm up the ride. I don't know a lot about how to mess with those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMONSTR Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 They are black originally..Cant tell much about the cut. I think I will just replace it all. Suggestions on springs and shocks? Just a turning car, that sometimes goes fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Aren't those the billows that go with bilisteins? They look like mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 You're paying the price for lowering the car by doing nothing other than shortening the springs. You've lost shock compression travel to the point where you're bottoming with relatively minor bumps. Some coil over system or strut shortening is the only way to maintain this stance and keep some actual suspension travel. The suspension threads are full of these conversions. Do some reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMONSTR Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 You're paying the price for lowering the car by doing nothing other than shortening the springs. You've lost shock compression travel to the point where you're bottoming with relatively minor bumps. Some coil over system or strut shortening is the only way to maintain this stance and keep some actual suspension travel. The suspension threads are full of these conversions. Do some reading. I have done a shit load of reading. But I am having trouble piecing it all together. I think I have seen at least 2 different conversions.. some cutting up parts, some welding parts. The welding and fab dont bother me one bit, its just knowing which parts work with what system and the results achieved. I am just tying to get a smoother ride, keep the car lowered some, and if I can do that with off the shelf parts without fab awesome!. Which parts? Otherwise, if I have to fab and weld, I am concerned about getting the right parts for the right process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 How are you going to use the car? Daily driver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I have done a shit load of reading. Which parts? Make a list of the things you read about in your shit load and post it up. People can give the pros and cons of each. There are basically two ways to go - lowering springs, or "coil-over" kits. Coil-overs offer adjustable ride height, with lowering springs you get what ever they give you (like what you have now). Coil-overs are best for fine-tuning ride height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Looking at the pictures your front lower control arm geometry could use correction. You should add some roll center adjusters ("bump steer spacers") if you keep the car this low. I've had the opportunity to drive quite a few different Z's and it's amazing how basically the same car can be so wildly different in feel. From a 240 with stock springs and "balloon" tires that felt like a 60's Galaxy 500 TO cut springs, harsh as hell, stoopid low... I think "the right" suspension is in the butt of the beholder. Surprisingly enough, there are actually quite a few options for early Z suspension. And enough different opinions that it may make your head spin. I may get some hate when I say this but the "easy way out" will probably be fully adjustable coilovers. Not that they don't come with their own set of unique issues when being installed on an early Z. BUT - You should be able to choose spring rates (change spring rates if you need to). You can set ride height (change ride height) at will without loosing spring or strut travel. And, if you have adjustable camber plates you can adjust for the negative camber you introduce when lowering the car. (do your homework, some of the adjustable camber plates don't actually have much adjustment...) The potential downside(s) of fully adjustable coilovers can be cost, installation usually requires "fab" work (cutting and welding as a general rule), AND you may end up cutting your stock strut tower for camber plates. So... that's something you need to consider. (to my mind, cutting the strut tubes off and welding on a threaded adapter for a coilover strut is not-that-big-of-a-deal. Fairly easy to reverse, you can find suspension parts to replace them. the "bigger deal" for me is cutting the strut tower - which is ultimately reversible, but not without some blood, sweat, and tears. ya, and probably $$...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMONSTR Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) I have 2 lines of thoughts. 1. Something quick and easy to fix the situation. BUT, if I am likely to have the problem again (bottoming out), or it seems I am half ass'ing it, I would rather do what cgsheen is saying is the better option and the end of his post. Which leads to thought #2. Cutting, welding, the tubes etc, no big deal for me. This sounds like more what I am going to do, since I have many more options with setups. I am f' with it once/pay more 1st time kinda guy. So, at looking at the coil over solutions, I find MANY products out there. Some are very expensive. Some not so expensive. And I, being a sucker, am easily swayed by pretty colors and slick advertising. I am concerned about buying a setup, and not knowing all the parts I need to make a correct setup. As I understand, in a coil over setup, I am going to to need the coil over setup and camber plates. I keep reading about spacers, rubber cushions/ bumpers etc. What is the list items I need? Is there a known setup that is less track and more daily driver oriented? Thanks for all the help. I am still reading. EDIT TO ADD: I just read post #5 here..now making me question my above statements...http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/22616-coilover-conversion.html Edited November 3, 2015 by ZMONSTR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 cgsheen sells a kit. He must be modest. Google the "garage" in his sig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMONSTR Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 cgsheen sells a kit. He must be modest. Google the "garage" in his sig. LOL.. I dont mind, heck, I need expert advice and if his kit is as good or better, then I probably will buy just cause of the personalized service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 That car will never be right. Get out of it while you still can. I will give you $1500 to take it off your hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) You can check to see if it is bottoming out by removing a front and rear wheel using jack stands, then put a jack under the control arm to achieve the same measurement from the center of the hub to the the fender arch as you had at static ride height with the wheel on and the car on the ground. Then take pictures of the springs so we can see how much travel is left. You won't be able to figure anything out with the shocks extended. We can help you. Wish you could ride in anotherZ to see if you think all Zs are too stiff. If so, my offer stands. Edited November 4, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 If the car is running standard length shocks and un-sectioned strut tubes then it's definitely hitting the bumpstops - you can pretty much tell this purely by looking at the angles of the control arms in the photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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