lorenzo Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I was replacing the temperature switch on my 1976 280z tonight and I must have gone too far and cracked the housing. When I put everything back together there was some antifreeze squirting out around the sensor. I cleaned it up and found there was a hairline fracture Is this a lot of work and time consuming to change? I have never done it before. I checked Motorsport and they do not even carry the part. I was thinking of sealing it with a gasket sealer but not sure if that would even work. Any ideas? Where to buy? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Not too much work, just two bolts holding the top half to the bottom, and two more to the head. Two gaskets, possibly sealer and anti-seize are required. Honestly, most issues arise from the age of the parts. Sensor wires become brittle, terminal ends fatigue and poor coolant mixture leads to corrosion. You've already learned how the old aluminum seems to get brittle over time! Post in the parts wanted section, plenty of these floating around. I may even have an extra... time to dig in the spares bin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Repairing it will require a TIG welder. Surface sealers will only hit the outside of the crack, it won't get it all. Changing it is just a couple of bolts where it connects to the head. and a gasket likely. Easy peasee? I can send you a spare I have. Maybe check with whiteheadperformance to see if they have one first. Send me a picture of the front of yours (with the sensors) so I get the proper one. z240@shaw.ca will get me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 You might break some bolts off in the head, or in the thermostat housing itself. Be careful and try to avoid that. The bolts tend to rust in their holes from slight coolant leakage over the miles and get stuck tight. I'd run the engine and get it nice and warm, then try to ease the bolts out. A hot head and housing will expand the holes and give you the best shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 I would like to thank everyone for all the great advice, I am feeling a little better about what happened. Hopefully, I will have it fixed soon, it is such a tight spot to work in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 You might break some bolts off in the head, or in the thermostat housing itself. Be careful and try to avoid that. The bolts tend to rust in their holes from slight coolant leakage over the miles and get stuck tight. I'd run the engine and get it nice and warm, then try to ease the bolts out. A hot head and housing will expand the holes and give you the best shot. +1, a few shots of PB blaster might be a good idea too. One little job turns into a big one if you break a bolt off in the head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hypertek Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 A new one is always nice, might as well change the thermostat too, and fresh coolant =) Guess I didn't mind changing mine since the car was sitting for 10+ years anyways and half the housing had been eaten away from years of what i assume was crap water lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Watch the screw length on reassembly. One or two of them will interfer with the cam chain guide if they are too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 It's not always the best way to fix it, but you can also braze the crack shut with a torch and some solder. remove the cap, heat the whole cap as it's cast, and braze in aluminum rod using lots of flux. Aluminum doesn't rust exactly, it tarnishes with a thin film of aluminum oxide. Then you'll likely need to chase the threads. Install with a new gasket and it will likely hold just fine. Your local welding shop should have some rod to fix it yourself, or you can have it welded. It's not that hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.