clarkspeed Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Those TTT control arms look just like the set I recently fabricated. I got the monoballs and pins from UB Machine. My theory on bump steer is I dont worry about measuring it.....just try to get it as close to 0 as possible. No expensive tool needed. Just 2 pcs of plywood, piano hinge, 2 small screws that extend out to touch rim, and a weight to hold on ground firm. Remove spring and jack car through range of motion. Adjust until screws ride on wheel rim throughout range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 I finally unpackaged mine. I am planning on doing the same as you did with moving the spacer on the bottom. For stacking the spacers, is that the correct orientation? Or does it not really matter since the nut on the bottom hits the wall before the spacer could come into play. I just saw the questions. I do not think that the spacer orientation matters. I tried to match up ends on the spacer though. I'm glad this post showed up. I'm thinking about getting these. Ordering 1, does it include both sides of the front suspension or do I have to order two? Arizona sells the sides separately, not sure how ttt packages their products An order includes both sides plus the T/C rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I've been searching around trying to determine what to use for my front suspension. I was thinking of going the stock style T3 control arm and t/c rod, but this set does come out a bit cheaper. I would like to track my car a little at some point, but primarily would just be street driving. Would there be any reason to go for the stock style ones over the gtx2 set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 You might have a bit more compliance with a regular ball joint over a race ball joint. You could also run a standard style tension arm. I'm not sure how much the race ball joint will cost to replace, or if they need to be replaced, but that could be a factor. Wheel size can also be a concern. If you want to run stock or around there, this one is going to be real close depending on what you are running in regards to bumpsteer spacing. I have about 1/2 an inch from the wheel on mine with 15 inch wheels, the standard style ones may be able to accomodate a smaller rim just based on the fact it doesn't have material right under the ball joint. Frankly it seems they may have addressed some concerns that may have made the regular style arm more appealing over the gtx-2 arms, that is what pushed me over to buying them after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 The only reason to move away from a stock arm is to be able to run a bunch of caster. Which often involves cutting your fenders and airdam for tire clearance. So, stock LCAs offer your best option over either aftermarket arm. Spend your money on things that will make you faster, like a good seat and seatbelts. Or tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I did it for the additional camber adjustment and potential track width widening. The tension arm was a nice bonus as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 My next Z will use stock LCA with the mono-ball modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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