ktm Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 I am just posting a couple pictures of T3's GTX2 control arm and T/C rod package that I just received. There were some concerns in two threads Here and Here as well regarding how the T/C rod connects to the arm. In T3's pictures (seen Here), you can see a rod end where the T/C rod connects to the arm and it can pivot about the connection. As shown in the two photos below, that has now been changed to a solid rod end that has a tight fit between the brackets. I am going to call T3 in the morning and suggest they update the photos, as the posts above as well as the old photos might "scare" away potential customers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 My guess would be they found it didn't work and went solid. Nice end they used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Would you now say that this control arm is superior to the use of a flat plate dogleg as used with a stock LCA or the old TTT LCA? Hmmm, wonder where you get those fixed rod ends?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Does it make anybody else uncomfortable that we put all of our braking forces thru a single 3/8" bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share Posted November 13, 2015 Does it make anybody else uncomfortable that we put all of our braking forces thru a single 3/8" bolt? I am going to swap out the bolt they provided and use a Class 10 (assuming it is metric) bolt in its place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JavelinZ Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Nevermind the fact they use a fully threaded bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Nevermind the fact they use a fully threaded bolt. And they shouldn't. Carol Smith would not be happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Swap the fully threaded bolt for the appropriate shoulder bolt and you're in business. I like the idea of an adjustable mono-ball in place of the lower ball joint. Unfortunately, I'm not sure that I could package those inside my 15 x 10 front wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Very cool, I was just about to place an order and was lamenting that these new arms were frowned upon by the forum and was planning on settling for the older setup. Are you running RCA's? Do you think you will install these soon? I'd love to see how they sit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 (edited) I plan on installing these today. I picked up some replacement hardware (Grade 8 bolts with sufficient shoulder length) for the T/C-control arm and sway bar end link connections and cut them to length last night. A point of note is that the hardware is not metric but rather SAE sizes. I think the worse part of the install will be getting everything adjusted correctly. I should not have an issue with the roll center adjustment as I am running 16x8 wheels; a previous member had issues with his 15-in. wheels. Edited November 15, 2015 by ktm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai7one Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 I had to remove the RCAs for my GTX2s (early revision) to fit with 16" rims (rota grid16x8 et0). Other option was keeping the RCAs & adding a wheel spacer, I guesstimated 10mm needed minimum for the 16" rim. I actually have 15" southern ways on my z now without the RCAs i just can't lower it as much as I wanted to with out being concerned with bump steer. Had I known this going in I would have just bought the standard T3 control arms. Hey T3 - you need to put a warning about this on your GTX2 webpage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 The GTX2 are supposed to be RCA adjustable, so you'll need to remove the the RCA blocks. I think I understand how it works, but I am calling them in the morning to confirm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Got it installed? Very interested to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 What are the differences between the early and later revisions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 (edited) Spherical rod end on the LCA connecting the toe link vs the ring is what it looks like. Edit: Sorry that should read tension arm not toe-link, too much thinking on the RLCAs. Edited November 16, 2015 by seattlejester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 These issues are why I'm just going with the regular style front lower control arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 (edited) What issues exactly? There are no issues necessarily. The only "issue" is potential clearance with the bump steer adjustment. Saying that, you don't run a RCA adjuster with these as they have RCA adjustment built-in. socorob, there is not really an "earlier" version of the GTX2 that I am aware of. I believe that they are referring to T3's stand-alone control arm replacement that is based on the stock arm. The difference in the ends is just a refinement in the design that does not address the clearance issue. seattlejester, yes, I installed them yesterday and confirmed the bump steer adjustment this morning. I will finish the install tonight (but not take it off the jack stands) and post a couple pictures. Edited November 16, 2015 by ktm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Thank you very much, I'm quite curious as to the distance from the wheel to the bottom nut without RCA's installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Pictures as promised. I am running 16x8 +10 wheels with a 10mm spacer in the front. I installed the bump steer spacer which helped to raise the lower portion of the "ball joint" spindle by approximately 23 mm (per T3's website). I have around 25 mm/1-in. of clearance between the bottom of the spindle and my wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I have the normal TTT control arms. I like the way you can adjust the tc rod connection point on these. It looks like it may let you get slightly more steering angle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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