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Dexter72's 2JZ NA-T Budget Swap..

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This is my Low, Low, Budget swap Thread.

Thanks to ZGad for posting your 2jz 240z Drag Strip video, 6 Years ago.. You hooked me on this swap the first time i saw your video.

Thanks to Seattle Jester, B.. For letting me bounce ideas off of you, helping me out when i couldnt get the engine running, and for him replying to my posts.

I Appreciate the Interaction B.. :)


I bought a 2JZGE from a 97 Lexus SC300 at my local pull a part, 2, 1983 W-58 5spd trannys, a shifter assembly and the front half driveshaft. All for $240.00 Half off day. Pulled all the parts on a friday eve  :ph34r:  and showed up at 6am saturday morning to be in line early and buy them. Yard openned up at 7:30am, i got the hell out of that mad house quickly, I was out of there by 8:30am with my goodies.


Pulled the drivetrain out of my z 2 months later, to start selling those parts to offset the swaps cost.



Just a quick start more to come::






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Zetsaz, Oh i have seen the car before but never that link, thanks for posting that.





I did the all the work at my job, After hours and on my weekends off. Weekends i didn't have my kids.




Cleaning up the pistons, head and intake ports. Engine had a ton of carbon in it. post-3128-0-75840600-1447854868_thumb.jpg






Cleaned everything up and started honing the cylinders. Crankshaft and bearings showed no wear. Camshaft journals were good to go as well. I was loving my $120 engine buy.


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I found out that the extra oil feed line fitting that i had from my L28na turbo fit in the block of the 2J.. Nice. I was hoping it would. 




Since i was planning on buying a FFIM  Front facing intake manifold. You need to plug the feed for EGR. Remove the Plate at the rear of the cylinder head and plug the port. I drilled and tapped the back of the head, then screwed the plug in.




Now how do i make a block off plate for the Dist??...post-3128-0-57945700-1447910277_thumb.jpg


You cut the base off of another 2JZGE Distributor, remove the lower dist gear, Drill out the inside and add a threaded plug. Install a new o-ring to seal the outer housing that goes into the head and Baam.. Its done. 


I bought extra parts for the build during another J-yards  $69.00 all you can carry day.. Dist, Valve cover, 2 extra oil pan assemblies, and a few other goodies. Sold the oil pans once i found out how much they go for on Ebay.. Extra money for the project. :)





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Engine has new bearings and piston rings, painted the block gunmetal gray. Head has new valve seals with a 3 angle valve job. And lapped the valves.. 


3 week wait for the Wrong Turbo exhaust manifold, Company finally tells me they cant get me the correct manifold that i ordered. :angry:  So worked on how im going to run the engine. 4 week wait for a FFIM, Ebay sold out of them and one company was selling them for $800. Ill Wait. Lol They normally sell for $110.




Started working on the turbo drain hole for the oil pan




My extra ZXT Turbo drain pipe ends up fitting right onto the 2JZ upper oil pan. I drilled and tapped the pan for studs and put the drain pipe on.




While i was waiting on my turbo parts, i started setting the engine in the car trying to figure out its placement. Trying to figure out how to do mounting plates for it.



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Build stop, Yes that is an x-ray of a quarter that my 5 year old daughter swallowed. I have no idea how it went down her throat, She could have choked to death on it and nobody would have heard her. :o Please tell your kids no money in your mouth at bed time. It wouldn't pass through her stomach waste opening. Doc had to go down her throat to remove it.




Still waiting on my parts to show up. So i start checking on how i want the engine to set in the car.




Just roughly getting an idea of how it will sit. Started putting the front of the engine back together.










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I probably set the engine in the car about 7 times checking clearances and alignment. I have to recheck everything still once the Turbo manifold and FFIM show up.. I also started painting the engine parts and cam gears and front covers.






Turbo manifold showed up so I can really start to see how much space the parts are going to fill up the engine compartment. Still checking and mocking it up.




Turbo showed up a few days later so i had to put the engine back in the car to take pics, I am excited by how its looking.


I have got to figure out how and where to set up my engine mounting brackets now. Lol

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Hey Ryan Merrill,

Even though all i read about was how the W58 is made out of glass, Its what i could find at a good price and i know a guy who can rebuild it, if it does break. I figured if guys are turboing  the Is300 with a W55 trans, The W58 will hold up as long as im not dumping the clutch.

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I found these on a Kenworth truck at the Junkyard, they are the rear cab mounting brackets. Heavy duty steel. Part of my $69 all i could carry day. When any Junkyard has those days, just get the things you think you can use for a project. I mean no way could you buy just these for $69 bucks. I had a dufflebag full of parts, that i carried out of that Junkyard.





Buddy had bought a new welder, wanted to get some more practice so i said Weld Away. lol He has done a lot welding on a jeep and mustang projects he has at his house. Great welds and free for me. So he was treated to many a free lunch.




Cant turn back now, Sparks are Flying.






His last words to me were, Hope that engine doesn't fall out. As im putting the engine in for the last time.


Thanks Man

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Nelsonian, Its just an ebay Turbo manifold for a 2JGE. I think it was $170 bucks.  I ordered this one after the other company took 3 weeks to tell me they couldn't get me the correct manifold i ordered.. They sent me the GTE Manifold twice, even though their site says 2JGE. After that crap, this one was ordered from a company in China, and it got to me in 4 Days. Talk about overnight parts from Japan. Japan aint got nothin on China. Lol  I was expecting it to take 2 weeks to get to me. Everything on the shipping box was in Chinese except my name and dealership name.


Makafox, I have wanted to do this swap since 2006.. Life kept getting in the way, things had slowed down for me, so i said hell, Its time. I'm 9 years late but it got done.


I am posting the info to show people that you don't have to spend 12K to do a 2j swap. If you have the extra cash go for it. But for most an extra 12k is going to be spent on something else.

This is just an option, I have read many a swap thread so i took things i had read and remembered options for my own swap. 9 years of wanting to do this and tons of saved thread info on my laptops, has helped keep the costs low.

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I went with treadstone log style mani. That china mani will crack on you so if you can just put a free reinforcement bars and youll be fine. Lol! Ive been collecting parts for 3 years and ive wanted to do the swap for about 5 years. So I feel your pain!

My friend did a budget 2j in his 240z it is possible. What people get caught up on is the "while im here might as well upgrade this" bug. Something I spent the money on and didnt care was wiring specialties definitely worth the money in my eyes. Time is money and the one mistake my friend made was doing the wiring himself which took forever. Wiring specialties is the best! They called me several times asking about my setup since it was na-t to get the wiring perfect for my set up. Also if you want to go coil pack mojo performance has a great kit that you can look at and piece together using ls2/lq9 coil packs. Im sticking to the dizzy for now but I feel the coil packs will be a better solution down the road eventually. Especially since the dizzy limits turbo sizes.


I got lucky on craigslist and found a 2jzge front facing manifold out of aluminum for $100!! craigslist has great deals at times

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Makaofox, I will see when and if it does crack. I never drove the car more than 3 times a week when i had the L28NA-T setup in it, So maybe that will give me more time. Lol


Stay tuned,

like my start page says the engine runs and I only ran a few different wires than the L28 set up had. engine has been running since May. Driving the car for 3 weeks now.

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post-3128-0-10004800-1448135065_thumb.jpg  Looking Sweeeeet.


FFIM finally i found one that wasn't $800. Lol  Ebay companies had sold out of these so the only one left that had them wanted $800 each. Lol Since i had to wait on my turbo manifold anyway. I waited and searched daily for 3 weeks and finally found someone selling his on ebay. So I just paid his $125. buy it now price for it... 2 weeks after i bought this, the ebay companies started stocking them again.




Firewall is a mess and inner fenders are as well. Cleaned them up and painted them with Bedliner paint.






Checking intake clearance, about 1/2 inch of space between brake booster and intake. Firewall and fenders all finished.. Engine is back in for the last time. Crappy looking valve cover is on. Making sure i can remove them if needed. I removed the rear most valve cover studs at the back of the head, And added bolts, otherwise you can't take the valve covers off.


post-3128-0-04418400-1448136281_thumb.jpg  Engine parts all painted up on the stand. Under the spark plug cover you can see the oil feed line i ran. I bent it and ran it under the cover. Just looks better to me, the cleaner you can run lines.





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Now we get to the fun stuff. How am i going to run this engine.




Running a toothed wheel setup.. DIY.com  Ford Edis 6. from a Mid 80's 6cyl Ford Ranger... Toothed wheel sensor from a Taurus. I already had a Megasquirt 2 Stand alone system, running the L28NA-T on my start page.


I ground down some of the crank bolt so the wheel would sit flush on the balancer with the bolt tight.. 2J balancer only has 2 bolt holes to bolt a trigger wheel onto.. I wasn't comfortable with that.. So in my searching i found that the 1JZ balancer has 4 holes in the balancer. But the 2 extra holes are just holes, no threads but they are all perfectly centered. Only difference between the 2 balancers..  I bought a 1J balancer. Drilled the 2 extra holes so i could put thread inserts in them.




You can see the Trigger wheel and Sensor on the front of the engine.




As the picture says.. We only had one guy that I worked with who was thin enough to get their arm all the way inside the intake. I say he was 120lbs Soaking wet. The intake is bolted from the inside, I added studs to the rear intake plenum before having him tighten them up for me. My man was Shoulder Deep up in it. Lol  Hope all his young ladies appreciate how deep he will go.






Put all the goodies on it and Started labeling and running the sensor wires and Edis wires.


Now where to mount the Edis6 coil pack, to keep the clean look going.




Inside the cowl works for me. I removed the wiper motor and parts 13 years ago. Since it rarely rains in Phoenix anyway.. Choices were RainX or don't drive it when its raining. I have a small bottle of RainX in my glove box, just in case i get caught in the rain.




When i was waiting on my exhaust manifold i was still working on things and figuring out things.. Made this shield to protect the wiring that has to run on top of the passenger side frame rail.. Factory wiring for the lights and alternator.. Made a heavy duty battery mount similar to the factory battery mount. I will have a couple of things bolted to the battery mount.










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Hell ya! This is the swap I was going to do rather then my 1jz. Any jz is a good jz.


Now you too can do this knee slap'r joke.


"What do you get when you fix a rb26dett oil problems, crank problems,and wiring problems?"


"....and JZ series!"



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The Transmission sits forward a little over an inch then i expected. I did the measuring before i got the 2j bell housing. Found out afterwards that the 2j bell housing is an inch shorter than the 5mge bell housing the trans came with.. Damn.. SO that made the driveshaft that much shorter.. I ended up buying a 1 1/2 thick, aluminum drive shaft spacer from ebay, to make up for the gap. I had it drilled to match the rear pinion flange bolt pattern.. I swapped the Datsun drive shaft front yoke for the Toyota drive shaft yoke. I kept the Datsun drive shaft.. I found a u-joint that was perfect for that. Had to press the Old Staked In u-joint caps out. and it was done.. 




This is my 3/4 inch aluminum plate to mount the throttle body to the Xs power intake.. I couldn't find a Q45 throttle body, which is recommended for that intake. But i found the throttle body off the Lexus LS 400, non Traction control, would work.. So I worked on how to mount both up. I ended up drilling the plate to match the intake thread holes.. But I drilled one of the holes way off. :angry:  Went to Harbor freight to try out those alumi weld rods, to fill in the hole and re-drill the plate. Well the damn things worked out fine. I heated up the aluminum plate with a torch.. Had a peice of steel underneath the plate. And it took 2 rods to fill in the hole. Let it cool on its own over night.. Checked it and it was good to go. Drilled the hole in the correct spot with no issues. I tapped threads into the front of the plate for studs and the throttle body slid right on. 


post-3128-0-18202800-1448419655_thumb.jpg Working on the inter cooler mounting brackets. My beat up 7MGTE Inter cooler..



  Working on Inter cooler pipe routing. You can see my Pcv abd booster hoses coming through the firewall




Fuel pressure regulator mounted, fuel hoses run.. Oil Dip stick tube bent to come up between the intake runners.. Made a bracket to mount it steady..











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