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Modest L28et build turbo choice.


KidandhisCar

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I have another question , i was recently given a turbo off of a 3.9l perkins at work,the engine and turbo have less than 50hrs on it,and were on a stand used for classes for apprentices.they decided to junk the engine to clear up space,so i nabbed the turbo.

 

Anyway the turbo is a garret air research ta3107. No waste gate,it is identical to the stock turbo,uses the same oil lines,only there is no waste gate,and the compressor wheel is about 10mm smaller.(measured with a mic)

 

The stockers cartidge is junk,tipping the turbo over results in oil leaks out of the intake and exhaust,and has enough vertical shaft play to let either wheel touch their housings.

 

Can i use the perkins unit for my build?

If people are maxing out flow on the stockers,in my minds eye i think i would be alright without the waste gate.

 

I doubt this would flow anymore than the stocker,but my main want to use this is it was free,and i recently bought another car to give me more time on the z,as the z was my dd,wich ruined the money i had saved for the turbo.

 

Ive read that people say running without a waste gate will cause excessive boost,and overspeed the turbo during spool? During spool the wastegate should be closed to send all gases throufh the turbine,and then open once desired boost is reached. So if my turbo maxes out of flow before max rpm i should be ok correct?

 

 

Please advise,and thank you

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Exhaust wheel is OK size, but the compressor is much to small. it is not at all safe to run without a wastegate on an engine with an RPM range like The L28...nonwastegated turbos are generally used on engines that operate at a fixed speed and constant load.

 

If you just run with the compressor maxed out all the time you'll be killing power in the exhaust, and creating huge amounts of heat from the overspun compressor. Not to mention the fatigue life of the compressor shaft...

 

Keep the turbo, as it's a decent usable core for a low-HP build but get as bigger compressor section and put on it.

 

The TA31 turbine wheel is often called a "stage 3" turbine wheel, you could have the stock wastegated housing bored to fit the bigger wheel and that would take care of any wear from the stock turbine rubbing.

 

Then, find and fit a T04B/T04E compressor, you're looking at diesels in the 6.0L area for those.

Edited by Xnke
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Side topic,whats maximum overall mill i can have on ap90 head and f54 block,before worrying abour compression being increased,and need ing a thicker head gasket? My machone shop had to take 15 thousands off of the head to get it flat,and the block will be getting done tomorrow. Thanks in advance.

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 f54 block

 

15 thousands off of the head to get it flat,

It's not the block, it's the pistons inside.

 

You can put negative numbers in to this calculator in the HG area, or just subtract from the stock gasket and put that in, to get an idea of what effect a shave has.  Not exact once the shave gets in to the chamber's curves, but better than nothing.

 

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

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Sorry,what i meant was total shaving combined,block plus head before i have to worry about using a thicker head gasket. The head has been milled down .015,if the block gets milled .015 for a total of .030 total material loss,will that be a large enough inscrease in compression to warrant a thicker head gasket? Assuming in trying to keep stock compreasion ratio? Engine is bone stock l28et out of an 82

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Nope.

 

Nothin' to worry about except you will need to shim the cam towers up 20 thou, (silver seal sells the shims still)

 

The currently available shims are 20 thou thick so only one set of shims needed. Older shims were 15 thou so make sure you measure the ones you get to be sure-if you can shim up the total amount lost in the cam, then your cam timing is not adversely affected.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Im using the original cam for this build,still trying to find out if thw .030 shims under the tower will effect anything negatively.i've seen posts where people have shimmed it up and ran without issue,and i've seen some stating thicker pads,or longer valves are an absolute must

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0.030" shims is fine. Just make sure you check your lash pattern and if it's good, run it. if it's running off the edge of the rocker pad, then you need thicker/thinner lash caps. Moving the cam so little means you probably won't have any issues.

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Awesome,just got the pistons in the block tonight,and all but one valve back in the head,somehow even though everything was stored individually in labeled ziplock bags,im missing the outer spring seat for #2 intake.not that big of a setback as i have a spare head in storage i can steal from.once the head is on i'll report back.thank you much

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  • 3 weeks later...

There is no difference between an MS3X and the MS3Pro other than the significant extra expense for weather proof connectors.  MS3X will let you run full seqential fuel and spark.  Any MS can run the fuel pump, IAC, EFan.  The 3X is a daughter card that you add to a regular MS3 to expand it's input/output capability.

 

 

 

Not quite. Compared to the 3x, the MS3Pro has better circutry for direct coil ignition. Which really only matters for the VAG (VW) Coils. 3Pro also does not have a map sensor built in so there is another extra piece to buy (or 2 if you want live baro). I'd vote for 3x but the 3pro does look nicer. 

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