Dadddio Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Is there some trick or special tools to remove this lockbolt from my transmission. Not much room to do anything. Any help is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 One of these might make it easy to remove the nut, of the correct size of course. I removed one from an old broken transmission. Didn't even want to think about putting it back together. http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-85203-quadbox-ratcheting-wrench-13-16-7-8-15-16-1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 I think I used a stubby box end wrench to get that one and you have to cram your hand in as far as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJSZED Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Getting the nut off is no big deal, a 10mm wrench will do that. The problem is pushing the wedge pin back out. I did it on a 5 speed BUT it had an extra hole in the rear housing for the reverse lock out. I supported the lever and drove the pin out with a punch and hammer. This rear housing doesn't have that extra hole so the punch and hammer won't work. Wish I could offer some help, my guess is Nissan had a special tool ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadddio Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Yeah, getting the nut off is not the issue. Can't figure out a way to press out the wedge bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 I think that I used a long screwdriver with my finger as a fulcrum. Not positive. It's a "brute force" operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJSZED Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 If you could support the bottom lever and just loosen the nut so the threads are protected. Put very little heat where the pin goes through the lever ( so you don't take the temper out of the lever end ) and possibly lever against the nut with a prybar pivoting on the rear housing where the bearing supports are cut out. I would try that 1st without heat just to make sure the mechanics of it all will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadddio Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 I was thinking heat, but don't want to overheat. May have to do that as a last resort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJSZED Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Also, and this is my last 2 cents, lol. You may be able to have the pin loosen if you remove it like a ball joint. Loosen the nut a turn or two, then using a punch and hammer tap the lever on the side. The pin is wedged like the stud on a ball joint and I get ball joint to pop loose by hitting the knuckle with a hammer. The vibration pops the joint loose from the knuckle...saves ribbed ball joint boots using the pickle fork. Hope that makes sense and good luck. Let us know what works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadddio Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Okay....tried heat, put a block of steel against the case to pry against. No go. The rod was flexing quite a bit. Wasn't sure how hot I could get it, but it was pretty hot.....any experts?....how hot can I get it? Any more suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadddio Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Got it. Ended up drilling a 1/8" hole approximately where I thought would line up......missed it by about 1/16". Was still able to beat it out. Had to support the rod to keep it from bouncing. Had to hit it pretty hard. Now.... The hole in the trans. case. Gonna tap it and loctite an aluminum screw in it. Thought about an aluminum rivet instead and pean it from bothe sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJSZED Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 That was a creative solution...good job...jb weld in the hole would work too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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