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Everything posted by BJSZED

  1. So, are you going to tell us what the final fix was or did I miss it elsewhere in your thread ? Was it the stub axle ? Or the diff ?
  2. The car is just driven on the street but hard and Iwant to ditch the drums, everything is worn out back there. The disks don't need to work better, just need to work equivalently. I believe the rear caliper on the T3 micro rear kit uses 4 pistons with a combined total area equivalent to one piston with a diameter of 1.5 inches....can't remember exactly.
  3. Thanks for the reply. The drum set-up is done and I prefer disks all around. They don't need to work better but they do need to work the same. I do want a balanced system so if changing to disks on the back messes that up, I will stick to drums. But, from what i have read on this site, If I keep the stock front calipers and master cylinder and go with the Maxima rear disk swap from motorsport Auto, the system should work well. If that is not the case, feel free to educate me. The techno setup is new so I was concerned that I would need to replace everything
  4. Looking at replacing my rear drums on the 240z. I was going to order the motorsport auto complete rear disk kit but then found the techno tuning micro rear brake kit, with integrated hand brake . My braking system is otherwise stock and I have no intention of changing the stock master cylinder or stock front brakes. I understand that the motorsport auto kit will work well with my setup. My question is if the techno kit uses a caliper with 4 pistons, would that not be too much rear braking? Techno says it is designed to work with stock components and a proportioning valve is not req
  5. Disappeared like the boobs thread on classiczcars 😢
  6. I had the same situation. Drill a hole all the way through the broken bolt. You should be able to tell when you're all the way through. Doesn't have to be a big hole. Then fill the hole with penetrating oil. Leave it for a day to penetrate from the bottom up. Heat it up with map gas on a regular old propane torch. When it's hot cool it with more penetrating oil. It should come out with some non-slip channel locks or vice grips.
  7. Impact wrench, that's how most garages would do it. They wouldn't take the time to do it by hand. It should spin it off easily. Did you put it on with an impact wrench?
  8. Same situation here. Put it in the pipe just after the collector
  9. I believe it works out to apprx 2430 lbs, just googled it 1060 kg is 2337 lbs
  10. I'm guessing the wire with the plug on it is an aftermarket coolant heater for cold climate winter starting. Looks like a 120 volt plug.
  11. All the spots that look lumpy are likely rust bubbling up, pushing up the surface of the mat. Sometimes if you push on the bumps it sounds crunchy. I would remove it so you know what you have.
  12. Yeah, probably not a good idea to drop the level unless you have a higher capacity pan
  13. Might sound crazy but maybe a little less oil so it doesn't get all churned up at high rpm by the crank...gets foamy and pressure drops. Watched similar results on engine dyno tests on motor trend. If I recall correctly they picked up horsepower and oil pressure with a little less oil.
  14. OP will probably figure that out with lack of responses....probably end up in the tool shed.
  15. Thanks for your responses...good advice, will do
  16. I've been reading on-line and getting confused. I think the resistor comes into play on a 4 wire alternator. It is used instead of an alternator charge light. Without it apparently it won't charge at idle. I believe I just need the diode on the run/start ignition wire from the ignition switch to the alternator.
  17. Looking for wisdom on whether I need a resistor, diode or both on my alternator upgrade ? I know I need the diode to prevent run on after the ignition switch is turned off but am unsure of the reason for the resistor ? - 1972 240z - 90 amp maxima alternator - new speedhut voltmeter which does not use a light ( for the resistance on the ignition circuit ) - new wiring, old voltage regulator is gone thanks for your input !
  18. Yes, you have to cut those holes out. I used a step drill. Lot safer than a knife.
  19. Yeah, that's from me. Working on the dash and leaving it rest upside down on the top trying to figure out how to mount all the gauges. It flattened them down a little. I'm hoping they will return when upright. If you are keeping the stock gauges, it would be perfect as they fit the holes perfectly. These 2 5/8 gauges are a little small.
  20. I haven't read the thread on Classic Z but my experience was positive in the end. I will admit that I was getting nervous about being burned as I didn't use paypal and things kept being delayed. Hung Vu which I dealt with was reassuring and seemed very professional. The dash seems to be great quality. It attaches easily although they were missing the attachment plates in the center heater control area. I used silicone adhesive in this area as well as the lower area under the glovebox, under the steering column area and the two sides. I used painters tape to secure until the adhesiv
  21. I have one. Installed it on the metal frame. Fit well on the frame but it's not installed in the car yet. Yes, their communication is poor
  22. Something else to consider ? Looked into it awhile back. Seemed to get good reviews by users. https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2013.htm
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