Coilovers on Stock Length Struts

[ZHoob2004]

I've decided I want coilovers, but I'm not ready to section my struts. It's a pretty dumb reason, but I've got brand new inserts all around so I've come up with a compromise and want to see how it works out. I've read this thread, that acknowledges this as possible but doesn't really go into specifics.

 

Essentially, the plan is to follow the instructions provided here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98897-step-by-step-coilover-conversion/ , skipping the sectioning/gland nut part.

 

I plan to place the sleeve perch at the same height as for sectioned struts (allowing me to section in the future without moving it), use the same 5" sleeves and use the tube that I make the perches from to make spacers to lift the sleeves up to my desired ride height.

 

Strut tops I believe should be this part, but I'm not 100% sure http://www.a1racing.com/A1_Racing_Products_12470_2_1/2_Spring_NonSlotted_Coil_Over_Top.aspx

May need bushings to center the struts in the tops depending on the dimensions.

 

For now I want to use the stock strut insulators and I'll piece together the front bearings like were done in the thread.

 

in brief:

5" threaded sleeves

10" springs (275/250 seems safe)

spacers to lift sleeves up closer to stock ride height

stock strut mounts

the linked strut tops?

 

Anything wrong with this plan?

[trackzpeed]

Why do you want or think you need coilovers? Would be my first question......

[JMortensen]

Should work fine. When I ran 4" sleeves I just set them up so that the spring hit the top and bottom perches with the adjuster all the way up. 

[ZHoob2004]

Why do you want or think you need coilovers? Would be my first question......

I want to lower the car, I like the adjustability, I like being able to select spring rates, I don't want to run progressive springs like all the lowering springs use, and I only want to buy these parts once if I can help it.

 

Right now I have stock springs with 240z rear isolators but the front is way too high and some previous owner must have done some strange spring swapping because the rear doesn't sit level and doesn't feel very nice to drive. (Yes, the springs are in the right places, this is the most level configuration I found)

[RebekahsZ]

Go all the way or don't bother (just my suggestion). Once you have it all apart, you've done most of the work! And stay away from "progressive" springs. Just a gimmick. The softer coils just collapse, effectively giving you a shorter spring.

[JMortensen]

I want to lower the car, I like the adjustability, I like being able to select spring rates, I don't want to run progressive springs like all the lowering springs use, and I only want to buy these parts once if I can help it.

 

Right now I have stock springs with 240z rear isolators but the front is way too high and some previous owner must have done some strange spring swapping because the rear doesn't sit level and doesn't feel very nice to drive. (Yes, the springs are in the right places, this is the most level configuration I found)

If you have a 280 with 240 islolators, I would leave the rear end alone and section the front. If you section the rear there is a good chance that you won't be able to get enough ride height in back. If you level it out or rake it a bit, you'll be near the bumpstops in the front. 

[NewZed]

My car doesn't sit quite level at one inch lower and sometimes I wish I had adjustable spring perches.  If you're not going too low, it's not a bad idea.  You'll just bottom out sooner.  You're giving up shock travel is all, in the end.

 

Not sure what "all the way" is.  Is it like "go big"?

[ZHoob2004]

Go all the way or don't bother (just my suggestion). Once you have it all apart, you've done most of the work! And stay away from "progressive" springs. Just a gimmick. The softer coils just collapse, effectively giving you a shorter spring.

I'd like to go all the way to sectioning, but I'm trying to be budget conscious about this whole endeavor and I have brand new strut inserts that should do just fine for my needs. I've taken all four struts off enough times that it's really not a big deal anymore.

 

If you have a 280 with 240 islolators, I would leave the rear end alone and section the front. If you section the rear there is a good chance that you won't be able to get enough ride height in back. If you level it out or rake it a bit, you'll be near the bumpstops in the front.

That sounds like a solid plan, but I need to replace the springs in the rear anyway because I can't get a pair to match properly. Plus my tires are a little wide so the narrower springs will help me with clearance. If it comes to it, I'll just have to raise the rear up if I can't get the front low enough without sectioning.

[RebekahsZ]

Mike Kelly (MiKelly) ran un-sectioned struts on his car. I think he achieved all his lowering via camber plates. Ya might try to track him down for advice. T3 seems to make a good quality, affordable bolt in camber plate system. You can probably lower the car 3" with camber plates alone. But I repeat-stay away from progressive springs. My springs are from Speedwaymotors.com and they work great. Cheap too.

[JMortensen]

That sounds like a solid plan, but I need to replace the springs in the rear anyway because I can't get a pair to match properly. Plus my tires are a little wide so the narrower springs will help me with clearance. If it comes to it, I'll just have to raise the rear up if I can't get the front low enough without sectioning.

I wasn't saying don't do coilovers in the rear, I was saying don't section in the rear. Coilovers are a good idea IMO, and on that previous thread you linked to I related my experience running a 240 with coilovers on unsectioned struts. Because the 240 top already drops the rear an inch or an inch and a half, you just don't need to do it. 

 

Keith is right in that you could run camber plates in the front and get both ends level, plus you could add some neg camber in front. That might not be such a bad idea if you're looking to get it done without the actual work of sectioning, but the actual job of sectioning itself is pretty easy if you have the tools.

[ZHoob2004]

Alright, sounds good. I'm going to get started ordering parts soon. 5" sleeves, I'll email a1 racing about the bore on the top hats to see if I need anything else with them or something different entirely. I was looking at the summit racing brand springs at ~$40/ea, are those decent or will I regret not going for something like eibach?

[ZHoob2004]

To confirm I'm on the right track, the coilover top should be sized according to the shaft diameter of the shock I'm using, right? I imagine the top sitting around the shaft and the steering bearing above that followed by the strut isolator, with any necessary spacers in between.

[RebekahsZ]

Buy some bolt in camber plates from DP. (Google DP camber plates). They look like an aluminum buscuit. They include the steering bearing, upper 2.5" spring seat, and a spherical bearing mount inside a mounting plate with 2 bolts (in place of the 3 bolts of the stock insulator). Call DP to discuss how to measure your shock to fit the spherical bearing. Not terribly expensive and work great. This let's you toss the stock insulator. I run them front and back. Springs are springs in my opinion, but get regular springs, not progressive. The rates you suggested sound fine.

Edited April 18, 2017 by RebekahsZ

[skirkland1980]

I installed coil over sleeves without sectioning the strut tube. I use 12" 80lb springs. I still had to use .500" wheel spacers to get the front down to stock ride height. I would have used 10" springs but they only went down to 100lb.

[ZHoob2004]

First wave of parts ordered.

 

10" springs in 250 and 275 lbs

5" sleeves with collars

A1-12470 non-slotted tops with 12mm holes. If the tops sit too high I'll drill them out to 7/8 to fit over the damper shaft giving me all the height I need.

 

Hopefully I can still use the stock steering bearings and I'll see after driving a bit if the coils still need Torrington bearings.