blu240z Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Wanna start by saying thanks for all the info I received from this site finally have the car up and running. I've searched and searched and could not find the info I need and I know it's here. My question is how can I run the factory ammeter gauge with the ls6 engine, don't want to upgrade gauges I have all of the stock gauges working except ammeter gauge. Trying to find out how to wire it up & where does the wire (white wire ) on the alternator battery post from the original alternator go now that I have the ls6 installed thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blu240z Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 Anyone using factory ammeter/voltmeter gauge with ls swap ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 I'm using the stock volt meter with LS1..... I didn't do anything special though. My harness from wiring specialties required a hot, a ground and a keyed hot to hook up and I grabbed all that from the engine bay. When I fired it up the voltmeter worked like stock. Maybe I was just lucky?.... Not sure if that helps your dilemma. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZHoob2004 Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 I can't see any reason the stock voltmeter/ammeter wouldn't work with a swap. The stock engine wiring is almost completely independent from the rest of the chassis wiring. I seem to recall my voltmeter working in my 280z with my alternator unplugged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 A volt meter would absolutely be no prob. However you have to be more careful with ammeters, the gauge is wired in series with the load. There is usually shunt to reduce the current that the meter takes. The meter and the shunt are calibrated. The meter/shunt must be sized to handle the load output of the alternator, or you will have an electrical fire. I have no idea where the shunt is on the Z, I have aftermarket gauges and modified wiring. However I know that you should not just hookup the gauge to the alternator. Best case it will just burn out, worst case, you will have an electrical fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 I have the Ammeter hooked up. Running a different tach and speedo but kept all the other gauges. Run the wire from the alternator to the ammeter and then to the fuse box. I used a EZ wire for the chassis so my experience is a little different. In your car basically the white/red wires (big ones) run to the gauge, hook up the alternator wire there and the ammeter should work. HTH, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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